IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


15.0  ^^^    in^H 

si?  IS 


I.I 

•«       140 

UI      Um 

u 

|J-4 

IB 

|l.6_ 

1.25 

7] 


/W 


^ 


7. 


^  ^'^I'V'' 


PhotDgraphic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


2J  WtST  MAIN  STRBET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


■^ 


\ 


o^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductlons  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microraproductions  historiquas 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Notas  tachniquaa  at  bibliographiquaa 


Tha  Instituta  has  attamptad  to  obtain  tht  bast 
original  copy  availabia  for  filming.  FaatMras  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  uniqua, 
which  may  altar  any  of  tha  imagas  in  tha 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significarrtly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  chacicad  below. 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couvertura  da  couieur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagAe 


□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restau'  ^^  et/ou  pelliculAe 


□    Cover  title  miasing/ 
La 


titre  de  couvertix    '  manque 

iloured  maps/ 
Cartas  gtegraphiquas  en  couieur 

□    Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couieur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  no 


[""1    Coloured  maps/ 


que  bleue  ou  noirel 

trations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couieur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relii  avac  d'autres  documents 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illuatrationa/ 
I      I    Bound  with  other  material/ 


D 


n 


n 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distorsion  I*  loni  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout«ea 
lore  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte. 
mais,  lorsqus  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pagea  n'ont 
pas  «te  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentairas  supplAmentaires; 


L'lnstitut  a  microfilm*  la  meilleur  examoiaira 
qu'il  lul  a  M  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  eKemplaire  qui  sont  peut-*tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographiqua,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
una  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exigar  una 
modification  dans  la  m«thode  normale  de  filmaga 
sont  indiqute  ci-dessous. 


I~~1   Coloured  pages/ 


Pagea  de  couieur 

Pagea  damaged/ 
Pages  andommagies 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaur*es  et/ou  pelliculAes 


I      I    Pagea  damaged/ 

I      I    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 


^  I    Pages  discoloured,  itained  or  foxed/ 
1-1    Pages  d*color*es,  tacheties  ou  piquias 

□Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ditachies 

FT]    Showthrough/ 
ulJ    Transparence 

□    Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Qualit*  inigale  de  I'impression 

□    Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprand  du  matiriel  suppl4men 


uppl4mentaire 


I      I    Only  edition  available/ 


D 


Seuie  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  una  pelure, 
etc..  ont  iti  filmies  i  nouveau  da  facon  ^ 
obtanir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ca  document  est  fiim«  au  taux  da  reduction  indiqu*  ci  dessous. 


10X 

p^"^ 



14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

XX 

1 

i 

12X 

lex 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

Th«  copy  filmed  h«r«  haa  b««n  reproduced  thanks 
to  tho  ganorosity  of: 

Seminary  of  Quebeo 
Library 

Tha  Imagaa  appearing  here  ttf  the  beat  quality 
poaaibia  eonaidering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  •peclficationa. 


Original  copiea  in  printed  paper  covera  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  laat  page  with  a  printed  or  illuatrated  imprea- 
lion,  or  the  beck  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copiea  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  wHh  a  printed  or  illuatrated  impree- 
sion,  and  ending  on  the  iMt  page  with  a  printed 
or  liiuatrated  impreaaion. 


The  laat  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiehe 
shall  conuin  the  symbol  •—•»(  meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meening  "END"), 
whichever  appliea. 

Mapa,  platea.  charts,  etc..  mey  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratioa.  Thoae  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  comer,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  fram.^s  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrama  illuatrate  the 
method: 


L'ttxemplaira  film*  fut  reproduit  grAce  i  la 
gAnArositi  de: 

Statinaire  de  QuMiec 
Blblioth«que 

Lee  imeges  suh/antae  ont  4t«  raproduitea  avec  le 
plua  grand  soin.  coinpte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
da  ia  nettet*  de  I'axemplaire  film*,  et  w 
eonformit*  avec  iea  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Lee  exemplalraa  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  eat  imprim«e  sent  filmte  en  commen^ant 
par  le  premier  plat  at  en  terminant  sott  par  la 
demiire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
dimpreaaion  ou  d'illustration.  soit  par  le  second 
plot,  selon  le  eaa.  Teua  lea  autre*  exemplalraa 
originaux  sont  fllm*s  an  commandant  par  ia 
premlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impreaaion  ou  d'liluatration  at  w  terminant  par 
la  dernMre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  dee  symboles  suivanta  apparaftra  sur  la 
demMre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
naa:  h  symbole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUiVRE".  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Las  cartea.  planchea.  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  fttre 
nimU  A  dee  taux  da  .Muction  diff Grants. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  %tf 
reproduit  en  un  simiI  cllch*.  il  eat  film*  t  partir 
de  I'angle  sup4rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  4  droita. 
at  de  haut  en  baa,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'Imeges  nAceaaalre.  Lcs  diagrammes  suivants 
iiluatrent  ia  mAthoda. 


1 


6 


t 


'iS%l 


^ 


Tl 


AN 


•m 


iPiiP 


mmmmmmmtig^ 


Xf^ 


TOPOGRAPHICAL 

<SV  THE 

STATE  OF 


INDIANA  TERRITORY^ 
LOUISIANA. 


COMPREHENDING 


THE  OHIO  AND  MISSISSIPPI  RIVERS, 

AND  THEIR  PRINCIPAL  TRIBtTTARY  STREAMS  : 

The  faccx)f  the  country,  soils,  waters,  natui: 
animal,  vegetable,  and  irineral  j 
settlements  and  improv 


AND 


A  CONCISE  ACCOUNT  OF  THE 

WEST  OP  THE  MISSISJ 


"£■ 


id 


TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED,  _^  __ 

AN  INTERESTING  JOURNAL  OF  MR.  CHAsTlERAYE. 

While  a  captive  ^v^th  the  Sioux  nation,  on  the  waters  of  the 
Missouri  river. 


BY  A  LATE  OFFICER  IN  THE  U.S.  ARMY. 


BOSTO^r. 
PUBLISHED  BY  CHARLES  WILLIAMS. 

J.  Belcher,  Printer. 

1812.  ^/$r  <v   . 


s. 


MjI'  'fiJ.'' 


^ 


V 


.%\^-i  '^  -^-^  Vv    <  v»^  \ 


M 


PREFACE. 


The  writer  of  the  following  sheets,  duing 
a  residence  in  the  western  country  for  many 
years,  has  had  occasion  to  visit  several 
parts,  to  travel  over  a  large  portion  of  the 
State  of  Ohio,  in  different  directions,  and 
to  descend  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  rivers, 
as  far  as  New  Orleans.  In  these  excur- 
sions, opportumties  continually  occurred 
for  observing,  and  collecting  information 
respecting,  those  objects  which  are  inter, 
csting  to  adventurers  into  a  new  country, 
and  which  rilay  be  gratifying  to  the  curios- 
ity of  others.  Minutes  were  made  of  the 
face  of  the  country,  soil,  waters,  natural 
productions,  and  of  whatever  appeared 
worthy  of  particular  notice ;  either  from 
his  own  observation,  or  from  the  informa- 
tion of  others  which  he  had  reason  to  be- 
lieve was  authentic.  , 

These  notes  we/e  made  with  no  other 
view  than  for  his  own  satijifoction,  and  for 
communications,  to  his  friends.  Solicita- 
tions, however,   from   a   number   of  his 


IV 


friends,  who  conceived  that  an  extract  from 
them  would  be  acceptable  to  the  public^ 
especially  ihose  interested,  or  who  wish  to 
become  mterested,  in  a  country  so  rapidly 
increasing  in  population,  have  induced 
him  to  consent  to  this  publication. 

Information  of  those  parts  of  the  country  * 
which  lie  west  of  the  Mississippi  was  col- 
It-cted  principally  from  very  respectable 
officers  of  the  army.  Several  of  these  offi- 
cers were  so  obliging  as  to  favour  the  wri- 
ter with  liberty  of  making  extracts  from 
journals  wliich  they  had  kept,  while  march- 
ingin  different  parts  of  the  country,  or 
commanding  at  particular  posts. 

On  passing  with  the  troops  from  Ken- 
tucky to  New  Orleans,  Mr.  Le  Raye  ap- 
plied to  the  writer  for  a  passage  with  him 
in  the  boat  tinder  his  immediate  command. 
This  gentleman,  who  is  a  native  of  Canada, 
had  been  engaged,  for  several  years,  in 
trading  with  the  Indians,  on  the  river 
Saskashawan,  northwest  of  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods;  but,  in  the  year  1801,  he  deter- 
mined  to  turn  the  course  of  his  business 
to  the  river  Missouri.  Unfortunately,  on 
his  first  adventures  he  was  taken  captive 
by  a  band  of  Sioux  Indians,  with  whom  he 


I 


remained  more  than  two  years  and  an  half, 
before  he  obtained  his  liberty.  During  his 
captivity^  he  kept  a  journal  of  the  most 
material  occurrences  which  took  place,  so 
far  as  circumstances  would  admit.  Before 
parting  with  him,  he  very  politely  presented 
an  extract  from  it,  with  permission  to  make 
such  use  of  it  as  might  be  thought  proper. 
Presuming  this  journal  will  be  found  par- 
ticularly interesting,  it  is  annexed  to  this 
publication. 

A  general  account  of  the  State  of  Ohio^ 
h  is  believed,  will  be  acceptable  to  those 
who  have  lands  or  friends  in  this  State,  or 
who  may  contemplate  emigrating   there 
themselves.     The  remarks  are  principally 
confined  to  those,  which  would  naturally 
occur  to  a  cursory  traveller,  passing-,  in 
different  directions,   through   the   several 
countries.     It  is  not  improbable  that  this 
part  of  the  narrative  will  appear  the  least 
interesting  to  some,  but  to  others,  it  is  con- 
ceived, it  may  be  a  species  of  information 
that  will  be  desirable.    In  the  arrangement 
of  this  publication,  it  was  thought  most 
eligible  to  begin  with  the  State  of  Ohio, 
and  proceed  to  the  southern  and  western 
parts  of  the  country. 
1# 


tor-->. 


M 


TO!»OGRAPHICAL  DESCRIPTION 

or    THE 

-    ^  STATE  OF  OHIO. 

1  HE  first  purchase  of  land  in  the  State  of  Ohio, 
after  the  Indian  title  was  extinguished,  was 
made  by  the  Ohio  company.  On  the  2rth  of 
November,  1787^  Congress  made  and  executed 
a  contract  with  the  agents  of  the  Oliio  company 
for  the  sab  of  one  million  and  an  half  of  acres, 
at  the  price  of  one  million  of  dollars,  to  be  paid 
for  in  final  settlement  securities.-  This  tract 
was  bounded  on  the  east  by  a  line  called  the 
seventh  range  which  had  been  previously  run  ; 
southerly  on  the  Ohio  river  ;  westerly  on  the 
seventeenth  range  of  townships,  and  to  extend 
so  far  north,  that  a  line  running  east  to  the  first 
boundary,  should  contain,  exclusive  of  the 
reservation?,  the  quantity  of  land  contracted 
for. 

The  first  regular  settlement  of  this  State 
commenced  in  the  year  1789.  A  party  of  about 
sixty  men  from  New-England,  under  the  super- 
intendence of  General  Rufus  Putnam,  and 
hired  and  paid  by  the  company,  arrived  at  the 


a 


mouth  of  the  Muskingum  on  the  Tth  of  April, 
and  immediately  began  to  clear  the  land  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  river.  In  the  month  of  Au- 
gust, eight  families  had  arrived,  who  inhabited 
the  temporary  buildings,  f  rected  for  their  ac- 
commodp.tion,  on  thatp^.easent  and  commanding 
situation  where  the  berutiful  and  thriving  town 
of  Marietta  now  stands.  In  the  course  of  the 
autumn  more  arrived,  so  that,,  at  the  beginaing 
of  June,  1 790,  there  were  twenty  families  on  the 
ground.  * 

It  was  the  intention  of  this  company,  amon^^ 
whom  were  many  of  the  officers  of  the  revolu- 
tionary ari'ny,  to  have  mad^  a  rapid  settlement, 
but  the  Indians  beginnfng  to  commit  depreda- 
tions, checked  the  emigration  from  the  Atlantic 
States.  In  the  winter  of  1791,  several  persons 
in  the  out  settlements  were  killed,  and  others  ta- 
ken prisoners.  The  people  were  obliged  to  erect 
posts  of  defence  at  Bellepre  and  at  Wolf  Creek. 
Blarietta  was  strongly  stockaded,  and  the  inhab- 
itants lived  in  a  garrison  state,  until  after  the 
victory  gained  by  General  Wayne,  on  the  20th 
of  August,  1794. 

Soon  after  the  Ohio  company  had  made  this 
purchase,  another  contract  was  made  with  Con- 
gress by  Col.  John  C.  Symmes,  for  a  tract  of 
land  supposed  to  contain  about  one  million  of 
acres,  lying  within  the  following  limits  :  begin- 
ning at  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Miami  river,  and 
thence  running  up  the  Ohio  to  the  mouth  of  the 


9 


Little  Miami  river ;  thcncMp  the  main  stream 
of  the  Little  Miami  to  the  place  where  a  due 
west  line,  to  be  continued  from  the  western 
termination  of  the  northern  boundary  line  of  the 
grant  made  to  the  Ohio  company,  shall  intersect 
the  said  Little  Miami  river;  thence  due  west, 
continuing  the  said  western  line  to  the  Great 
Miami  river;  thence  down  the  Great  Miami  to 
the  place  of  begmning. 

Settlements  commenced  in  the  tutumn  of 
1789,  on  this  tract,  under  the  direction  of  Co!. 
Symmes,  principally  by  emigrations  iVom  the 
State  of  New  Jersey.  But  the  settlers  here 
were  subjected  to  embarrassment  similar  to 
those  of  the  Ohio  company,  in  consequence  of 
the  Indian  war.  The  settlement  made  little 
progress  until  after  the  conquest  of  General 
Wayne,  and  the  treaty  with  the  Indians,  in  the 
succeeding  year. 

Not  long  after  the  commencement  of  these 
setriements,  another  of  considerable  magnitude 
was  begun,  on  a  tract  of  land,  called  the  Con- 
necticut Reservation,  situated  on  the  northeast 
corner  of  the  State,  and  bounded  east  by  the 
Pennsylvania  line,on  the  north  by  lake  Erie,  and 
extending  westward  as  far  as  Sandusky  lake. 
These  settlers  came  principally  from  the  State 
of  Connecticut. 

.These  were  the  first  settlements  undertaken* 
on  a  large  scale,  within  the  limits  of  the  State 


to 


of  Ohio,  but  made  little  progress  until  after  the 
close  of  the  Indian  war. 
Another   very  considerable  settlement   com- 
menced, in  1796,  on   a  tract  of  land,  called  the 
Virginia   Reservation,    situated    between    the 
Scioto  and  Li  tie  Miami  rivers.  This  land  was 
located  by  army  warrants,  granted  originally  to 
the  troops  of  the  Virginia  line  of  the  revolution- 
ary army.     A  part  of  the  settlers  were  from 
Virginia,  but  far  the  greatest  number  from  the 
State  cf  Kentucky.     The  town  of  Chillicothe 
was  began  in  the  autumn  of  this  year  (1796), 
and  so  rapid  was  the  increase  of  inhabitants  that 
It  was  mkde  an  incorporate  town  in  about  fivj 
years.     The  Territorial  Assembly  of  the  rep- 
rescntatives   of   the  people    convened  in  this 
town  for  several  years,  and  it  continufed  the  seat 
of  government  until  1809,  when,  by  act  of  As- 
sembly,  it   was  moved  to  Zanesvilie   on  the 
river  Muskingum. 

On  the  13th  of  April,  1802,  the  people  were 
authorized,  by  an  act  of  Congress,  to  form  a 
constitution  and  State  government,  and  were 
accordingly  admitted  intonhe  Union  upon  the 
same  footing  with  the  original  States.  By  the 
same  act,  the  boundaries  of  the  Sti.ce  were  es- 
tablished on  the  following  lines,  viz.  "  Begin- 
ning on  the  east  by  the  Pennsylvania  line ;  on 
the  south,  by  the  Ohio  river  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Gi^at  Miami  river ;  on  the  west  by  a  line  drawn 
due  north  from  the  mouth  of  tb**  n~-»«-  iviu, 


■•-    vj  i  ;.  cj ; 


«.T&:iii;i    , 


11 

and  on  the  north  by  an  east  and  west  line  drawn 
through  the  southerlyextrcmes  of  lake  Michigan, 
running  east,  after  intersecting  the  due  north 
line  aforesaid,  from  the  north  of  the  Great 
Miami,  until  it  shall  intersect  lake  Erie,  or  the 
territorial  line,  and  thence  with  the  same 
through  lake  Erie,  to  the  Pennsylvania  line 
.  aforesaid." 

The  number  of  inhabitants,  since  the  peace 
with  the  Indians,  in  1795,  has  been  rapidly 
increasing.  In  1803,  it  appeared  that  there 
were  15,314  white  males  of  21  years  of  age  and 
upwards.  Calculating  on  this  data,  it  has  been 
supposed,  that  the  whole  number  of  inhabitants 
at  that  time  coujd  not  be  less  than  76,000.  It 
has  been  presumed  that  the  emigrants  coming 
mto  the  Stat«  annually,  for  several  years,  were 
about  12,000.  The  embarrassment,  however, 
occasioned  by  the  embargo,  operated  as  a  very 
serious  check  on  the  acquisition  of  inhabitants 
fron.  the  other  States,  as  well  as  from  foreign 
nations.  The  present  number  within  the  State 
cannot  with  much  certainty  be  ascertained! 
By  a  late  estimation,  from  the  probable  natural 
mcrease,  and  the  additions  hy  emigration,  the 
population  is  stated,  in  round  numbers,  to  be 
200,000.  The  accuracy  of  this  estimation  wiU 
soon  be  decided  by  the  next  census.* 

Having  traversed  a  large  portion  of  the  State  in 
atvcral  directions,  it  will  be  attempted  to  give  a 

«I  sJciSlT""'  "^^^ '"'"  ^®^^'  "^^  ^''"'^'  of  inhabitant. 


1 


12 

cursory  description  of  the  face  of  the  countrj-, 
soils,  ^nd  the  natural  and  cultivated  productions, 
beginning  at  the  eastern  boundary. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Beaver  Creek 
the  boundary  line  between  the  States  of  Pennsyl- 
vania  and  Ohio,  meets  the  Ohio  river,  42  miles 
below  Pittsburgh.     Near  the  creek  are  some 
rich  bottoms  or  intervals,  but  the  land  back  rises 
into  high  hills ;    on  some  of  them  is  a  good  soil 
and  capable  of  cultivation.     There  are  some 
handsome  farnis,  producing  wheat,  rye,  barley, 
oats,  flax,  hemp  and  Indian  com.  Not  far  from 
the  mouthof  the  Little  Beaver,  a  spring  has  been 
found,  said  to  rise  from  the  bottom  of  the    iver, 
from  which  issues  an  oil  which  is  highly  in-  , 
flammable,  and  is  called  Seneca  oil.     It  resem-  ' 
bles  Barbadoes  tar,  and  is  used  as  a  remedy  for 
rheumatic  pains.     People  who  have  travelled  ^ 
for  several   days  on  foot,  have  found   much 
relief  by  rubbing  this  oil  over  their  joints. 

The  land  from   the    Little    Beaver   to  the 
Muskingum,  on  the  Ohio,  ascends  into  high 
hills,   some   of  them  terminating  in   elevated 
peaks,  but  there  are  frequently,  large  rich  val- 
lies  that  intervene,    at   the   base   of  the  hills. 
Towaids  the  Muskingum  the  summits  of  the 
hills  become  more  broad  and  flee^     Some  of 
them  are  free  of  rocks,  andjhaving  a  rich  soil 
admit  of  cultivation.     The  greater  part  of  these 
hills  may  be  profitably  improved  for  orchards 
and  grazing  of  sheep  and  cattle.    As  far  as 


IS 

Wheeling  and  Grave  Creek  they  abound  with 
coals,  and  generally  of  a  good  quality. 

In  many  of  these  hills  are  quarries  of  excellent 
free  stone,  capable  of  a  good  poUsh,  and  make 
beautiful  walls  in  buildings.     Some  of  these 
stones,  when  first  taken  out  of  the  ground,  are 
so  soft  that  they  can  be   worked  into  various 
forms  with  carpenter's  tools.      On  the  side  of  a 
hill  above  SteubenviUe,  it  is  said,  there  is  a  spot 
of  ground,  that  when  covered  with  a  considera- 
ble depth  of  snow,  a  smoke  is  seen  to  rise  from 
It,  as  if  it  were  heated  by  a  subterranean  fire 
And  that  near  the  base  of  the  same  hill,  if  an  hot 
sun   succeeds  a   shower  of  rain,   an  excellent 
white,  fine  salt  may  be  collected  from  the  sur 
face  of  the  rocks.     Not  far  from  Georgetown 
38  miles  below  Pittsburgh,  it  is  said,  a  ffold 
nnne  has  lately  been  discovered.     A  specimen 
It  IS  reported,  has  been  tried  by  a  silver-smith 
at  Pittsburgh,  who  declared  it  to  be  pure  jrold 
without  alloy.  The  lump  had  the  appearance  6^ 
being  found  m  running  water. 

The  base  of  some  of  the  hills  extends  to  the 
bank  of  the  river,  others  recede  leaving  wide 
bottoms  of  a  very  rich  and  deep  soi!.  Vhen 
the  hills  approach  the  river  on  one  side,  thlv 
usually  recede  from  it,  on  the  other,  si  tZ 
there  are  wide  bottoms,  alternately,  on  S 
sides  the  river.  Much  of  the  soil  ia  these  bof 
toms,  especially  the  first,  ffor  there  =.,-  J!  °'; 
three  bottoms  rising  one  above  the  o'the;; W 


14 

ing  a  sort  of  glacis)  has  been  found  as  deep  as 
the  bed  of  the  river.  The  hills  are  clothed  with 
a  thick  forest  of  trees,  consisting  of  white,  red 
and  black  oak,  hickory,  ash,  chestnut,  poplar, 
sassafras,  dogwood,  and  the  grape  vine.     The 
bottoms  are  covered  with  a  heavy  growth.  The 
largest    trees    are    button-wood,    called   here 
sycamore,   elm,  black    walnut,  tulip  tree,  and 
beach.     The  smaller  trees  consist  of  hickory. 
White  walnut  or  butter-nut,  locust,  honey-locust, 
buck  eye,  mulberry,  sugar-maple,  cherry  tree, 
crab-apple  tree,  plumb  tree,  papaw,  and  willow. 
The  grape  vine  abounds  on  the  bottoms,  and 
grows  to  a  prodigious  size,  ascending  to  the 
tops  of  the  Icltiest  trees.     The  passenger,  glid- 
ing  down  the  river  in  the  summer,  is  amused 
and  delighted  with'the  appearance  of  these  vines 
on  the   upper  branches   and  tops  of  the  trees, 
forming    large    canopies,     festoons,     arbours] 
grottoes,  with  numerous  other  fantastic  figures.' 
Some  of  the  trunks  of  these  vines  are  of  a  size 
whicti  will  admit  them  to  be  split  into  four  rails 
for  fence. 

The  sugar-maple  is  a  tree  of  immense  value 
to  the  people  of  this  State.  It  ought  to  be  a 
first  object  with  every  man,  when  he  begins  to 
cultivate  his  land,  as  much  as  possible,  to  pre- 
serve these  trees.  Each  tree,  from  eighteen  to 
twenty  inches  in  diameter,  will  yield  four 
pounds  of  sugar  every  season.  The  process  of 
making  is   ,o  tap  the  tree  with  an  auger,  drive 


15 


into  die  hole  a  wooden  tube,  and  place  a  trough 
under  it  to  receive    the  water.     Large  ketUes 
being  placed  in  the.most  convenient  situation 
among  the  trees,   and  a  fire  made  under  them, 
the  water  is  brought  in  buckets,  where  it  is  mod-, 
erafely  boiled,  until  it  comes  to  a  consistency 
which    scarcely  admits    of  any  longer  stirring 
with  a  stick  made  for  that  purpose.     It  is  then 
removed  from  the  kettle,  and  is  still  constantly 
stirred  until  it  is  cold.  As  it  cools  it  granulates 
and  becomes  bright   and  dry.     The  grain   of 
this  sugar,  made  at  the  beginning  of  the  season, 
very  much  resembles  the  sugar  made  in  Louisi- 
ana from  the  sugar  cane,  and  not  inferior  to  the 
best  Musquevado.     The   quality  of  the  sugar 
depends  much  on  care  and  cleanliness  in  making 
of  it.     The  season  for  making,  and  the  time  it 
continues,  varies  according  to  the  state  of  the 
weather.     It  generally  commences  in  February 
and   continues   about   six  weeks.     When   the 
trees  are  at  a  distance  from  the  house,  a  camp 
is   formed  in  a  central  place  among  the  trees, 
and   is   called   the  sugar  camp.      The   whole 
f^imily  sometimes  resorts   to    this   camp,   and 
women  and  children  assist  in  making  the  sugar. 
In  camps  consisting  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  to 
two  hundred  trees,  have  been  made  from  five 
hundred  to  a  thousand  pounds  of  sugar,  in  one 
season.       An  average  price  of  the   sugar  may 
be  about  ten  cents  ner  nound.     S.,o-=>..  Koo  u 


s:iu     WwVtJ 


made   late  in  autumn,   after  frosts  or  falls   of 
snow,  but  it  depends  on  the  weather. 


16 

The  land    back  from  the  Ohio   Is  best  for 
farms.     The  hills  diminish  in  height  and  size, 
and  though  interspersed  with  ridges  and  swel- 
ling hills,  a  large  portion  of  the  ground  is  suffi. 
Gicntly  level  for  all  the  purposes  of  cultivatioiu 
Much  of  the  land  on  hills  and  ridges  is  arable, 
and  admits  of  easy  tillage,  having   a  rich  and 
deep  soil ;    and  most  of  the  ridgy  and  rough 
lands   may  be  made   useful  for  grazing  and 
orchards.     From  the  eastern  boundary  to  the 
river   Scioto,  the  same  growth  of  trees  and 
shrubs  which  have  been  mentioned  generally 
prevail ;  although  the  different  kinds  grow  more 
plentifully  on  some   lands,   than  they  do   on 
others,  and  in  several  places  there  are  consider- 
able growths  of  pine,  in  the  tract  of  land  called 
the  seven  ranges  there  are  some  hills  and  ridges 
"which  are  high  and  form  steep  precipices.     In 
this  kind  of  land  the  soil  is  thin,  and   growth 
small,  consisting  of  oak  and  hickory,  the  sum- 
mits of  the  hills  tufted  with  pine.     On   the 
seven  ranges  there  are  few  inhabitants,  except- 
ing near  the   Ohio.     These  people  are  princi- 
pally  emigrants  from  Pennsylvania. 

The  great  road  from  Cumberland  on  the 
Potomac  river,  commonly  called  the  United 
States  road,  crosses  the  Ohio  at  Wheeling, 
where  there  is  a  distributing  post-office,  that 
receives  and  despatches  the  mail  once  a  week  to 
the  westward,  and  twice  a  week  to  the  eastward. 
Where  this  road  leaves  the  Ohio  it  takes  a 


IT 

westerly  direction,  and  passes  through  the  State 
of  Ohio  to  Limestone,  in  Kentucky.  This  road 
is  the  great  thorough  fare  of  people,  in  which 
there  is  incessant  travelling  from  different  parts 
to  the  Atlantic  States,  and  from  these  States  into 
the  western  country.     The  land  through  which 
the  road  passes  from  the  Ohio  to  Zanesville,  on 
the  Muskingum,  is   uneven,   but   rich,  pretty 
thickly  settled  and  well  cultivated.     There  are 
four  thriving  villages.      St.  Clairsville  is  the 
largest,  containing  a  number  of  handsome  houses 
and  several  stores  of  goods.     It  is  the  principal 
town  in  the  county  of  Belmont. 

Passing  down  the  Ohio  from  Wheeling  to 
Muskingum,  there  are  only  scattering  settle- 
ments  on  the  rich  lands  near  the  river. 

The  town  of  Marietta,  situated  at  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Muskingum  with   the   Ohio,   has 
greatly   increased   in  population   and   wealth. 
Before  the  settlement  commenced,  the  ground 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Muskingum  was  laid 
out  m  the  form  of  a  city,  containing  one  thou- 
sand lots  of  90  feet  front  and  180  feet  rear.  The 
squares    were   oblong,  separated  by  spacious 
streets,  which  intersect  at  right  angles.  A  large 
square  was  reserved  for  a  market,  and  several 
others,  m  different  parts  of  the  city,  for  public 
uses,  or  pleasure  ground.     There  are  now,  on 
the  city  ground,  more  than  one  hundred  houses 
and  about  one  sixth  part  are  built  with  brlct 
ana  stone.    Many  fif  the  houses  are  large  and 
2"^ 


^ 


18 


built  iu  a  handsome  style.  The  form  in  which 
the  town  is  built,  adds  much  to  its  elegance,  and 
the  gentle  rising  of  the  city  ground  back  from 
the  Ohio,  affords  an  extended  and  delightful 
prospect  of  the  rivers  and  distant  hills,  which  is 
greatly  heightened  and  enlivened  by  the  ship^ 
ping  and  various  kinds  of  water  craft  floating 
on  the  streams.  A  part  of  the  town  is  built 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Muskingum,  and  the 
houses  not  inferior  in  elegance  to  those  on  the 
city  ground. 

Marietta  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county 
of  Washington,  and  has  a  court-house  and  jail. 
There  are  two  religious  societies  ;  the  largest 
is  Congregational,  who  have  erected  a  hand- 
some meeting-house.  It  has  an  academy, 
which  is  also  improved  as  a  house  for  public 
worship. 

Within  the  area  of  the  ground  laid  out  for  a 
city,  at  the  northeast  part  of  it,  are  a  number  of 
the  ancient  works  so  frequently  found  in  the 
western  country.  They  consist  principally  of 
two  large  oblong  squares  and  an  elevated 
mound,  in  the  form  of  a  cone.  The  largest 
square  contains  forty  acres,  and  the  smallest 
twenty.  They  are  enclosed  by  walls  or  ram- 
parts of  earth,  without  any  ditches,  from  six 
to  ten  feet  in  height,  and  about  thirty  feet  in 
breadth  at  the  base,  with  twelve  openings,  or 
gate- ways,  at  regular  distances  from  each  other. 
_  ..-„^,  „^   .^..5;  ««jjiC3  yj  ine  iargcst  square 


19 

nearest  the  Muskingum,  is  the  appearance  of 
the  walls  of  a  covert  way,  leading  towards  the 
river.      The   highest  part  of  the  remains  of 
these  walls  is  twenty-one  feet,  and  forty  feet  in 
breadth  at  the  base.     The  mound  of  earth,  in 
form  of  a   sugar-loaf,  is  thirty  feet  in  height, 
and  the  base  115  feet  in  diameter.     It  is  situ- 
ated at  a  litde  distance  from  the  smallest  square. 
These  works  were  included  in  public  square* 
and  have  been  carefully  preserved  ;  but  a  small 
opening  has  been  made  in  the  conic  mound  and 
found  to  contain  human  bones.  Although  these 
ancient  works  fill  the  beholder  with  astonish- 
^ment,  others  have  been  discovered  of  far  greater 
magnitude.     On  a  branch  of  the  Muskingum, 
about  ninety  miles   from  Marietta,  there  are 
these  ancient  works  extending  about  two  miles 
in  length,  and  the  ramparts  and  mounds  of  a 
much  greater  height   than   those   found   here. 
Vestiges  of  ancient  works,  of  differ-.nt  forms 
and  sizes,  and  at  small  distances,  are  to  be 
found  over  the  whole  State,  and  in  many  other 
parts  of  the  western  country. 

Marietta  is  favourably  situated  for  commerce 
and  manufactories.  The  depth  and  gentle  mo- 
tion  of  the  water,  in  the  mouth  of  the  Mus- 
kingum,  and  the  cheapness  of  excellent  ship- 
timber,  render  this  one  of  the  best  places  for 
ship-building  on  the  Ohio  river.  A  number  of 
large  ships  and  brigs  were  built  in  a  short  time, 
and  the  employment  was  rapidly  progressing 


30 

until  a  stop  was  put  to  it  by  .he  c.nbargo. 
Three  rope  «  ,Iks,  of  nearly  a  thousand  feet  iu 
length  were  erected,  and  the  numerous  me- 
chan.c  branches,  connected  with  the  highly  im- 
portant employment  of  ship-building  were 
established.  The  Muslino..,™  r  u-  i. 
;„  ,•„    r  J-     ,  *""""S"™  (which  means, 

m  tne  Indian  language  m.  Eye)  is  of  immense 
importance  to  this  town.  The  current  is  mod- 
erate, rarely  overflowing  its  banks,  and  may  be 
navigated  with  keel  boats  and  other  craft,  dur- 

fH    r""™'"'  "'J^'"' "'  Z'-e^ille,  sixty  miles 
from    Marietta.     There  are  falls,   but  happily 
formed  for  erecting  water  works  of  every  de- 
Bcription. .  Above  the  falls  the  river  is  agam 
navigab  e,   no,   only  i„  the  main  stream,    but 
many  of  the  numerous  branches  which  ^ean- 
de.  through  a  rich  and  level  countiy  in  their 
way  to  the  river.     The  largest   branch  i.  the 
Tuskarawa,  which,  with  only  a  portage  of  seven 
m.les    and    an   half,  communicates  with    the 
Cayahoga  river,  emptying  into  lake  Erie.    The 
immense  quantity  of  produce  which  this  fertile 
tract  of  country  is  capable  of  yielding  for  market, 
and  the  easy  transportation,  cannot  fail  of  ren-    ' 
dering  Marietta  a  convenient  place   of  sale  or 
deposit,  from  whence,  by  the  ships  built  here. 
It  may  be  sent  abroad.     Materials   for  many 
different  manufactories  may  be  procured  here 
wuh  so  much  facility,  and  from  the  well  known 
"Pint    of   industry  and  enterprise  prevailine 
among  the  people,  there  can  be  nn  A.,L  „f  .u.> 


21 

entablishment  in  process  of  time.  A  bank  was 
established  here  in  i80f,  with  a  deposit  of  an 
100,000  dollars,  from  which  essential  benefits 
have  been  derived.  There  is  a  post-office,  two 
printing  offices,  and  two  weekly  papers. 

Ascending  the  Muskingum  from   Marietta, 
at  the  distance  of  five  miles,  is  Captain  Devol's 
ship.yard,  where  a  number  of  large  vessels  have 
been  built,   and  one   of  them  more  than  200 
tons.     The  workmanship  and  timber  of  these 
vessels  are  said  not  to  be  inferior  to  any  that 
have  been  built  in  the  United  States.     Their 
frames  were  black  walnut,  which  is  said  to  be  as 
durable  as  the  live  oak  and  is   much  lighter. 
The  plank  of  these  vessels  are  said  to  be  of  an 
unusual  length  and  firmness.    The  forests  here 
abound  with  the  best  of  timber,  such  as  white 
oak,  black  walnut  and  locust,  and  the  prodigious 
height  and  size  of  the  trees,  admit  of  the  selection 
of  any  dimensions  which  can  be  wanted.     Ex- 
cellent masts  of  yellow  pine  are  easily  procured. 
Iron-ore  is  found,  in  places,  in  almost  every  part 
of  the  State,  and  a  sufficiency  of  bar  iron  can  be 
obtained  without  difficulty.     But  the  want  of  a. 
greater  number  of  furnaces  and  forges,  keeps  up 
the  price  higher  than  it  otherwise  would  be.   As 
much  tar  as  can  be  wanted  is  brought  down  the 
Alleghany  river.     The  people  can,  with  ease, 
raise  as  much  hemp  and  flax  as  would  be  suf- 
ficient to  SUDdIv  the  whriU  «f  ♦K^  TT_:._  J  c. 

11."  —  ,,  .._s^  vs  4„^  ^^jj^jj-^  ijtates* 


f 


are  .  ch,  th.ckly  settled  and  well  cultivated.   Ac 
"""•  »"''  'wenty.  three  miles,  by  „«,.,    :,  ,k, 

purchase,  the  bottom  lands  are  narrow,  and  the 

Wis  are  „.a„y  of  them  steep,  tufted  ;ith  pine 

for  about  thirty  miles.     They  then  begin  to  "e 

cede  from  the  river    anri   hi,. 

wirlth  .„  7  ;.  bottoms   mcrease  in 

w;dth,oZanesv,lle;    at  the  distance  of  a  few 

miles  west  of  the  river  .h.  f         <•  , 

swelling  Kii        •  ^  ""  °'^"'«  """'ry  is 

swellmg  h,Us,  wuh  a  rich  soil,  and  the  growth 

prmcipaHy  beach  and  oak.  ^ 

vem  of  coal  has  been  found  crossing  the  bed  of 
the  river,  remarkable  for  its  nuritv    Th      • 
of  th,.  „„^i   u  .    ""^ '"  purity.   1  he  pieces 

'  '^\'°^^  •>"•«  the  appearance  of  v,rnish 
somewhat  resembling  japan,  and  when  laid  on 

tts"\:nH':''"^'""'^''^°''"«'>.-'"^'>co„? 

witho-t     rf  "  M°"""'"'    ''>'  "Proration, 

scarceu,  ^t    rT''    ""^"'    "■«•     "en.sit, 

so  d  at  M  ^  """'■■  ""^  =•'""•     <^'°»'   has  bee. 
sold  at  Marietta  at  about  three  cents  the  ...he. 
and  IS  much  used  by  the  inhabitants  for  fuel    „ 
preference   ,o  wood,  when   wood  can  be  pu" 
chased  at  one  dollar  per  cord. 
Descending  the  Ohio,  at  the  distance  of  ,en 

tifui  vll         •  -^^"""^  ^^  Bellepre.     This  beau- 
"rui  Milage  IS  sprpt-ai  «,:!„»  •    1        , 

5  „.  .„»v,T  ,n  icngih,  extending 


23 

(0  the  Little  Hockhocking  river.     'X'I.e  people 
are  principally  farmers.  The  good  management 
and  excellent  culture  of  their  farms  has  been 
much  admired.      An  early  attention  was  paid 
to  raismg  different  kinds  of  fruit  trees.     Orch 
•Tds  of  apple  trees  of  large  extent  have  been 
planted,  which  are  now  become  extremely  pro- 
ductive.    The  fruit  is  of  various  kind,  and  of 
the  best  flavour.     Prodigious  quantities  of  cider 
IS  made,  and  when  the  fruit  is  properly  collected 
and  carefully  made,   the  liquor  is  of  the  first 
quality.       They  have    likewise    large    peach 
orchards  for  making  peach  bra.dy.  I„  this  part 
of  the  State  appk  trees  and  all  garden  /ruit 
trees  thrive  surprisingly,  and  the    flavour  and 

of  the  Atlantic  States.     The  gardens  yield  all 
the  culmary  plants  in  high  perfection.     The  va- 

Opposite  to  Bellepre  is   the  beautiful  island 
tirunfo'  ^'-  «'^"""''-«-      The  nam    of 

Lheme,  n,'°    '"^age   in  his   nefarious 

scnemes,  is  well  Irnnwn    t*!.* 

,   *  *^*^"  Known.  This  may  render  somp 

tere  tmg.      The  following   was  written    by  a 

T^T."'-  Z  "  '°"  '™'"  Philadelphia,  and 
published  ,„  the  Ohio  Navigator.  ' 

bant  f.         t."  r ' '  "'*""" — ^"  ascending  the 
^ank  froo,  the  landing,  (a  quarter  of  a  mile  be! 


24 


.  ' 


low  the  eastern  eiid)  we  entered  at  a  handsome 
double  gate,  with  hewn  stone  square  pilasters, 
a  gravel  walk,  which  led  us  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  paces  to  the  house,  with  a  meadow  on 
the  left,  and  a  shrubbery  on  the  right,  separated 
by  a  low  hedge  of  privy-sally,  through  which 
innumerable     -olumbines    and    various    other 
hardy  flowers  were  displaying  themselves  to  the 
sun.     The  house  is  built  of  wood,  and  occupies 
a  square  of  about  fifty-four  feet  each  side,  is  two 
stories  high,  and  in  just  proportion  ;  it  is  con- 
nected with  two  wings,by  a  semicircular  portico, 
or  corridor  running  from  each  front  corner.  The 
shrubbei-y  well  stocked  with  flowering  shrubs, 
and  all  the  variety  of  evergreens  natural  to  the 
climate,  as  well  as  several  exotics,  surrounded 
the  garden,  and  has  gravel  walks  labyrinth  fash- 
ion winding   through  it.     The  garden  is  not 
large,  but  seems  to  have  had  every  delicacy  of 
fruit,  vegetable  and  flower,  which  this  fine  cli- 
mate and  luxurious   soil  produces.     In  short 
Blannerhasset's   island    is    a  most  charming 
retreat  for  any  man  of  fortune  fond  of  retire- 
ment, and  it  is  a  situation^perhaps  riot  exceeded 
for  beauty  in  the  world.     It  wants  however  the 
variety  of  mountain,  precipice,  cataract,  distant 
prospect,  &c.  which  constitute  the  grand  and 
sublime." 

From  Bellepre  to  the  Great  Hockhocking 
the  country  is  uneven,  and  some  high  hills  near 
the  Ohio,  but  the  soil  is  generally  good  and  ths 


handsome 
e  pilasters, 
e  hundred 
neadow  on 
,  separated 
ugh  which 
3US  other 
Ivcs  to  the 
i  occupies 
de,  is  two 

it  is  con- 
ir  portico, 
rner.  The 
J  shrubS) 
ral  to  the 
rrounded 
inth  fash- 
:n  is  not 
;licacy  of 
s  line  cli- 
In  short 
:harming 
f  retire- 
jxceeded 
ever  the 
t,  distant 
and  and 

ihocking 
Lills  near 
i  and  the 


growth   is  lage.      Excellent    farms  are  made 

and  olTe-  :  ""t  °"  '"'  ^'^  Hockhoclcings 
and  on  their  branches  where  there  are  large  hot- 

toms,  and  rich  swelling  hills. 

the^'ol'  "^^^^l^^^^h^^k-ff  thirty  miles  from 
the  Ohio,  are  the  two  college  townships  granted 
by  Congress  to  the  Ohio  company  for  the  en- 
dow„,ent  of    a   University.       Athens,   one    of 

end  oH:  ^- '    '^   '""^'""^  ^^--^    -   ^ 
ZITtu  ^^"lements    commenced     in 

he  never  failing   springs  of  excellent  water  are 
rnerous  .  and  the  soil  extremely  rich  and  f^ 

o  ai':  '?  "'  '""'"^-    ^"  -^  -cor. 

bu  Id  n^  I        r^"''"'^  ^'^^  granted  in  1801.  A 

yoih   i;r   '""  ^^^^^^^  for  the  instruction^ 
youth,  who  are  at  present  under  the  care  nfl 
preceptor.    The  bottom  lands  on  thTs  Xr t 
-ore  extensive  and  of  a  better  qual  t^  th  :^^^^^^^^^ 
on  the  Muskingum.  ^       "  "*°^® 

On  this  river  thirty  miles  from  Athens  and  fi 
miles  beyond    the  line  of   the  Oh  o  "" 

P-chase,  are  falls  commodi  u  ly  3  ItTfr'"^ 
kind  of  water  works.  The  des  Jnr Tk  ^"^^ 
"Ine  feet,  and  the  stream  nvefl  lit  ^^^^^^^^^  ^^ 
of  the  year.  Above  the  falls  thl  l  1  ^  '""'^^ 
-des  the  river,  is  level  and  Sh  Th  T  '°^' 
flatten  off  into  extent'. «  1"^^'    ^^^^^  '^^  ^^l^ 

3^ 


' 


'11 


26 

From  the  great  Hockhocking,  or  the  Ohio,  to 
Galhopohs,  and  from  thence^to  the  mouth  of  the 
Scoto  nver    the  land  is  hilly,  clothed  with  an 
heavy  growth  of  excellent  wood  and  useful  tim- 
ber,  but  interspersed  with  rich  bottoms  and  in- 
tervals.    Receding  from  the  Ohio  the  hills  and 
ndges  dimmish,  until  the  land  becomes  sufficiently 
level  for  all  the  purposes  of  culture.     Where  set 
tlements  have  been  made  in  this  hilly  land,    the 
farms   are  very  productive,  and  it  is  considerea 
as  the  best  land  in  the  State  for  orcharding 

On  Shade  river,  ten  or  twelve  miles  below  the 
Great  Hockhocking,  handsome,  flourishing  settle- 
ments  have  commenced.  Opposite  the  mouth  of 
the  great  Kanhawa  is  Fairhaven,  a  small,  but 
beautiful  village,  most  delightfully  situated. 

Three  miles  below  is  Golliopolis  situated  on  the 
high  bank  of  the  Ohio.    It  was  began  in  the  year 
1/92,  and   was  settled  by  about  five  hundred 
French  people,  emigrants  directly  from  France 
who  erected  about  an  hundred  houses.  ' 

These  people,  wholly  unacquainted  with  clear 
ing    up  forests  of  heavy  timber,   after  forming 
handsome  gardens,  and   planting  vineyards  and 
orchards,  became    discouraged.     Finding  them- 
selves in  hazard  by  the  Indian  war,  they  began  to 
desert  the   town.     Some    went    down   the  river 
about  twenty.five  miles  and    settled  on  donation 
lands   given  them    by  Congress,    opposite   little 
Sandy  creek,   but  many  of  them  went  down  the 
„j,.   .^  ^^-uioiuim.     me   town  has  since 
been  on  the  decline.     It  is  the  seat  of  justice  for 


2r 


the  county  of  Gallia.     Before  these  people  left 
Galliopolis  they  made  a  considerable  quantity  of 
wine,  mostly  from   the  native  grape.     Some  of 
the   wine  made  here,  when  improved  by  age,  is 
said  to  have  been  of  an  excellent  quality. 

From  Galliopolis  to  the  mouth  of  the   Great 
Scioto  are  few  settlements,    excepting  the  new 
French   settlement :    on  a  tract  of  20,000  acres 
given  by  Congress  to  the  original  French  settlers 
at  Galliopolis.    This  tract  extends  eight  miles  on 
the  Ohio  river,  and  is  situated  nearly  opposite 
the  Little  Sandy  river.     Adjoining  this  land  is 
a  grant  of  4000  acres,  made  to  Man.  Gervis,  who 
has  laid  out  a  town  upon  it,  to  which  he  has  giv- 
en the  name  of  Burrsburgh. 

Above  the  mouth  of  the  Great  Scioto  is  the 
town  of  Portsmouth  an-i  below  it  the  town  of 
Alexandria,  both  of  which  are  favourablv  situa- 
ted for  becoming  places  of  much  business.     The 
Scioto  IS  a  large  and  beautiful  river.   When  over- 
flowed, the  waters  extend  but    a  small  distance 
from  Its  natural  banks.     Both  sides  are  bordered 
with  rich  bottoms  and  a  great  extent  of  excellent 
land  for  culture.     It  is  navigable  for  keel  boats 
to  a  great  distance,  and  for  .mall  craft  to  a  port- 
age within  four  miles  of  Sundusky  lake. 

Having  gone  down  the  Ohio  to  the  Scioto  river 
we  will  now  return  to  Zanesville,  on  the  Mus- 
kingum, and  on  the  great  road  leading  from 
H  heehner  to  LimpQtMn*.    i^    v ,  r, 

-"-  -  situated   on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mus- 
'  about  eighty-five  miles  by  water  from 


king 


28 
Marietta.     Conirress   Jn  i^no 
•his  tr..e  of  land    o  E^ener; 2?"'^  "  «""'  °'' 
Peasation  for  opening  a  rarf^rVleLlT 
Limestone,  and  estabi;«l,;  ,        vvneclmg  to 

ries  over  .he  Le      1"    "h'  "      ""■""'-"'S  fer- 
.      laid  out  this  tIZ      ,  '■°"*'-    <^°'-  Z»»e 

and  .hee;rw  h°^-  ^*' P^Sras,  was  slow, 

opposite^  he  ;l:' fX  ;„d :  '•''"  °'  *^  ^'-^ 

=.nnually  increasing.     The  court  h  ^^  "' 

an  elegant  stvlp      Tk  ^''^cc  scone  and  m 

™ene  I  n  w     L  Jf  ""  °'  '"=  ^.ate  govern- 

expected  it  wiuTjrl  tnt     l^  ""'"  "  '^ 
5n  this  town  is  a  H"  f.  "?^'"-      ^^e  post-office 

-"s  areiro^  "Srri:r  ^f 

ferent  kinds  of  "od;     ZV't  ^'°'"  °^  "'f- 
charges  its  watfrff  I     ^""""S  Creek  dis- 

cataract  formed  by  a  root  ZV        """'^"' 

stream  a.  rl„K.   Z./°'\  "'^"="'''»8  ""<>«»  the 

-o-   «"eiiC3,  ana  producine-  a  fall  ^^ 

J'even  and  an  half  ft-e^t  «rK-i     u    ""'^^ng  a  tail  of 

"*"  **=^^'  ^h»^e  the  water  above  and 


29 

below  appears  to  be  on  a  perfect  level.  Besides  a 
grist  and  saw  mill,  a  furnace  has  been  erected, 
which  was  expected  to  go  into  operation  the  last 
summer.  Near  the  furnace  is  the  appearance  of 
a  large  quantity  of  iron-ore,  supposed  to  be  of  a 
superiour  quality.  Coal  abounds  in  this  vicinity 
and  can  be  procured  nearly  as  cheap  as  at  Mari^ 
etta. 

On  the  State  road,  west  of  the  Muskingum,  are 
rich  and  moderate  swelling  hills.  On  the  north- 
em  side  of  the  road  they  gradually  flatten  off 
almost  to  a  level,  and  are  clothed  with  excellent 
timber,  consisting  principally  of  oak,  hickery, 
beach,  black  walnut,  blue  and  black  ash,  mulberry, 
elm,  buckeye,  cherry,  and  gum.  The  soil  is  deep 
and  rich.  This  description  of  land  extends  from 
the  head  waters  of  the  Muskingum,  to  the  waters 
of  Scioto  and  Miami's,  and  northward  to  Lake  Erie 
with  little  variation.  Only  a  few  large  hills  and 
ridges  are  distributed  over  a  great  extent  of 
country. 

On  the  State  road,  39  miles  from  ZanesviUe,  is 
the  town  of  New  Lancaster.     This  town  was  laid 
out  by  Col.  Zane,  in  the  year  1800,  on  a  delight- 
ful spot,  and  has  increased  with  great  rapidity. 
It  is  built  on  the  east  side  of  the  Great  Hock- 
hocking,  where  the  stream  is  not  more  than  six 
yards  in  width,  but  on  rising  ground,  and  where 
a  beautiful  prairie  or  natural  meadow,  stretches 
along  the  bank  of  the  river  for  several  miles,  and 
about  half  a  mile  in  width.    This  prairie  renders 
3* 


so 

Setbf  "xf  "•!  *.'"^"  "r -"'"S'-V  P'e.-.sa„.  and 
house     b'iltn  P^^'"'P''"'°"t  an  hundred 

nouses,  built  in  a  vcr.   neat  manner,  with  hewn 
«.mber,  and  princip,,,y  on  one  stree  .     UhZZ 
handsome  brick  court-house,  four  store,  o   good, 
and  four  taverns.     The  town  and  th,  J 

rnl?:rr''"•'^''^'^^'^^-t^r 

VIC  nity  of  Lancaster,  in  Pennsylvania.      It  is  ,he 
-at  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Fairfield. 

from  New-Lancaster  to  Chilecothe  i,  thirtv 
eight  miles,  and  the  face  of  the  countl  ^' 

near  Lancaster,  where  are  Tt.T    Z'     "P""« 
is  very  much  a"  conti  ued  p.aL     "Sr  "'"^ 
soil  and  is  badly  watered.'  The  Jowth  "      u 
consisting  mostly  of  black  and  wh  te^o^k  fnd         ' 
h.ckor,.     The  soil  inclines  to  clay  ith 

sidered    indifferent   fo.  f       ■       .         "^  '*  *=""■ 
iiiuincrent   tor  farramc;  land.      Or.   .i, 

southern  extremity  of  this  glade  of  land 
■nence  the  chains  of  hills  which  e«  „d    "T 
Ohio  and  its  branches  for  sever:;^^  l^ilt' 

>s  very  flat  and  low,  and  much  of  it  too  wet  f„, 
cultivation;  but  -here  the  swells  are  so ^ 
aot  to  be  overflowed  in  the  winter  and   .1! 
.he  soil  is  rich,  and  produces  la  ge  .  mber"^  '"/: 
the  distance  of  28  miles  from  r  ' 

three  miles  north  of  th;s;;rro';d:r  p'ict"a' 
plains  begin  and  extend  to  the  Scioto  riler    Th" 
are   several  miles  in  width,  not    ent  re,;  SeT 

T.  ;rs  — ■' '""' '-"'"  -'--'"'^^'^ 

-       prospect  ...  raore  agreeable.    This  tract  is 


31 


destitute  of  trees  or  shrubs,  excepting  a  few  com- 
pact clusters   of  trees,    surrounded  with   thick 
bushes,  appearing  like  scattered  islands  in  a  bay. 
The  soil  is  good,  and  a  fine  stream  of  water  passes 
on  the  south  side.     They  are  said  to  produce  the 
best  wheat  raised  in  the   State.     There  are  two 
small    villages   on   them,   containing    about   50 
houses,  and  a  wind-mill  has  been  erected  which 
grinds  all  their  grain.     These  plains  have  been 
considered  as  the  handsomest  tract  of  land  in  this 
part  of  the  country.    The  land  from  the  Pickawa 
plains,  in  a  northerly  direction,  for  thirty  or  forty 
miles  is  level,   interspersed  with   wet  prairies, 
nearly  to  the  forks  of  the  Scioto,  and  thinly  set- 
tled. Near  the  forks  the  land  is  good  and  thickly 
settled.     In  an  easterly  direction  from  the  forks 
of  the  Scioto  to  the  waters  of  Licking  Creek  is  a 
largely  extended  tract  of  level  lands,  with  some 
wet  prairies  but  mostly  a  very  rich  soil,  and  is 
fast  settling.     At  the  distance  of  38  miles  is  the 
town  of  Granville,  built  by  a  number  of  emigrants 
principally  from  Granville  in  Connecticut,  where 
are  thirty  houses,   and  the  country  well  settled 
around  it.     East  of  Granville,   about  seven  or 
eight  miles,  is  Nework,  on  the  waters  of  Licking 
Creek.     It  contains  about  60  houses,  a  log  court 
house  and  jail,  and  a  large  log  Presbyterian  meet- 
ing house.     It  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  Licking 
county.     This  tract  of  country  is  well  settled  as 


far  ease  a<t   7.t>nor,*Au^ 


T*!.-    1 J     r   .t  • 

*  «c  lauu.  lacner  norta- 


32 
ward  continues  level,  but  i,  much  of  it  lo„  ,    , 

South  of  the  State  road  as  it  »r. 
Scioto,  twemy-eight  mile,  in         '''PJ°'"^^"  'h' 

action  f~m  ChifcX  and  63  r''^ '"'^  "'" 
on  the  Ohio,  ai,  the  G~«  Q  •  "  ^^''''opo'ia 

'»»<•  U  Hn.;and  ctXlraT'-""'''-  ^"^ 
timber.  The  salt  water  i!  f„  %  ''  «™**  °^ 
of  »  stream  which  Tu  i«oT  "'''' *'  •""'k, 
called  Salt  Creek  at,h-!i     ?   ^  *"°'°>  ««•  " 

fron,  the  surct'o'/tt S  d"'tr"r^-  ^'" 
«  passes  over,   is  prevent!^  f        I"    ''^'"■'  '» 
.he  salt  .ater,'b,  aH^l ^d  r'"f  T 
There  are  sixteen  furnaces,  and  ^  ;„      "''^- 
tion,  each  furnace  «r;ii       J  "  '°  ^P^''^- 

-It  in  24  hou™  S  mid"  7  '"  """•="  °^ 
furnace  is  to  dig  a  wTren.h  •  "T""'''"'^  » 
day,  four  feet  deep  at  o„l  .  '".  "  ^"'^  ?""  "^ 
other,  with  a  gradL,  d  ".     ,    '"''  *'"  *■«'  « «'«= 

-hich  is  the  iitifiTfir  V"'  r  • 

ties  of  thirty  gallons  each,  ^^^.  .^'"*^  '«- 
"e  placed  i„  ,he  trench      A  fi"f  •'' '"  '^  "'"' 
deepest  end,  and  a  chimneyts  trnXtt"  t 
er,  m  a  manner  that  will  admit  Jl«.       ?'  "*• 
through  the  length  of  the  fu  nace      tT "^  "'""Sh. 
pumped  by  horses  or  mules  1  1  ,      '  "^'^  '" 
and  then  laded  into  the  k    t,e.      A    ^^"  "'''"'' 
"  necessary  for  boiling  the  w L      ATth""  '"* 
evaporates  at  the  moufh  of  the  f.'  '"*'''" 

"ainsinthekettlesislad  J   ,/''"'  "*""  "" 
ney.  and  .he=.\...;!  '.''''*'"'°*°«nearthechim. 

'^'""  "'"=  "Sam  filled  with  water 


33 


« 


so  that  the  water  near  the  chimney  is  in  a  constant 
state  of  crystallization.  Tallow  and  Indian  meal 
are  used  to  promote  the  crystalization.  It 
requires  about  600  gallons  of  water  at  these  works 
for  one  bushel  of  salt.  There  are  no  setdera 
near  the  salt-works,  excepting  those  concerned  in 
making  salt. 

Chilicothe,  an  Indian  name,  signifying  town,  is 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Scioto,  where  the 
State  road  crosses  the  river.     In  the  year  1796, 
Col.  Nathaniel  Massie,  with  eight  or  ten  men,' 
who  accompanied  him  from  Kentucky,  explored 
the  wilderness  to  this  spot.     They  planted  and 
raised  Indian  com,  on  a  rich  4)rairie,  about  two 
miles  below  the  town.     In  autumn  the    formed 
the  plan  and  laid  out  the  town  in  lots.    The  next 
spring  they  brought  out  their  families  and  com- 
menced the  setdement.     From  this  small  begin- 
ning has  risen  up,  in  about  thirteen  years,  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  towns  in  the  western  country. 
The  following  description  of  the   Scioto   and 
Chilicothe  is  from  a  gentleman  who  made  a  tour 
into  the  western  country,  from  Philadelphia,  in 
the  year  180r,and  is  taken  from  the  Ohio  Navi- 
gator. 

"Chilicothe  is  most  beautifully  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  Scioto  about  45  miles  by  land, 
and  nearly  seventy  following  the  meanders  of  the 
nyer  from  its  confluence  with  the  Ohio,  which  it 

lOinS     betlV'f»i»n     Prs»i-o.>^-..^u    _      1     *, 

lat  distance  the  river  has   a  gentle  current 


all 


34 

and  unimpeded  navigation  for  large  keel,   and 
othercraft  of  fourfee.  draught  of  walr.         c'" 
tmue,  navgable  for  smaller  boat,  and  ba,  eauJ 

.ITrds'  i^'  ""'  '""''"''  """   ""-e  the  ": 
toward,   ,t,    source    to  the  northward    irli,lin» 

SenUy  through  a  natura,,  rich.  level.aJd  fa^^^' 
■mprovrng  country.    The  situation  of  the  town  i^ 
on  an  e^vated  and  extensive  plain  of  nearly  te„ 
thousand  acre,  of  a,  fine  a  soil  as  any  i„  AmericT 
partly  .„  cultivation,  end  partly  covered  ^h    ,' 

by  *e   s"l  "'h'."""""  -"'y --undid 
oy   tlie    Scioto,  which  turning   suddenlv  to  .h. 

northeast    from   it,  generally',outhe  ly'coU/ 
leave,  the,  town  to  the  aouthward  of  it.'^ndren 

Water  street  which  runs  about  east  bv  north 
parallel  to  the  Scioto,  is  half  a  mile  long,  and  co- 
tain,  nmety  house,.  It  i,  34  foet  widefnd  wouTd 

'he  bi  r:::'  r ""  •"' "'-  '""'^  -" '- 

the  cemrlof  ?  Tk"'"  *''*  '"''''"^'  "'"•«'«  i-'o 
tne  centre  of  it.    There  is  now  a  lottery  on  foot 

urhr  """^y^— ""S  the  bank  agLst  any 
further  encroachment,  of  the  river.     Mai„  ,,,Z 
paralle   to  water  ,treet,  one  hundred  feet  wid     ,, 
>    market  ,treet.  which  crosses  both  at  ri  J  L 
gle,,  and  in  which  is  the  market  house,  a  „ea 
bnck  b„,Hing,  eighty  foet  long.  The  court  h  use 
in  the  same  ,treet.  i,  neatly  built  of  free  store 
on  an  area  of  45  i>y  42  feet,  with  a  ,em  cir  ll  r 

Z1T  'V:  ""•  '"  "•'■'=•'  »  »"»  ''-  ""  o 
_      e.  .  „„  -wiiigunai  Dciiry  rising  from 


life 


«he  foof,  painted  white  with  green  lettices,  which 
is  an  ornament  to  the  town,  as  is  the  small  plain 
belfry  of  the  Presbyterian  meeting  house,  a  hand- 
some brick  building  in  main  street ;  in  which 
street  also  is  a  small  brick  Methodist  meeting 
house.  These  are  the  only  places  of  public  wor- 
ship in  the  town,  if  I  except  the  court  house  which 
is  used  occasionally  by  the  Episcopalians  and 
other  sects. 

"  The  whole  number  <*  dwelling  houses,  as  I 
counted  them,  is  two  hundi  J  ai.  d  two,  besides 
four  brick,  and  a  few  framed  ones  now  building. 
I  reckoned  only  six  taverns  with  signs,  which 
small  proportion  of  houses  of  that  description 
speaks  volumes  in  favour  of  the  place.  There 
are  fourteen  stores,  a  post-office,  and  two  printing 
offices,  which  each  issues  a  Gazette  weekly. 

"  The  soil  of  the  town  being  of  a  gravelly  kind, 
the  streets  are  generally  clean.     The  houses   are 
of  free  stoi>e,  brick  or  timber  clapboarded,   the 
first  of  which  is  got  in  the  neighbourhood,  is  of  a 
whitish  brown  colour,  and  excellent  for  building. 
They  are  mostly  very  good,  and  are  well  painted. 
On  the  whole,  I  think  Chilicothe  is  not  exceded  in 
beauty  of  plan,  situation,  or  appearance,  by  any 
town  I  have  seen  in  the  western  part  of  the  Uni- 
ted States. 

"  There  is  here  a  remarkable   Indian  monu- 
ment in  Mr.  Winship's  garden  in  the  very  heart 

of  the  town.  Like  that  at  Ornv^  Cr-^^x.  u  : j 

at  the  base,  about  seventy  or  eighty  feet  diame- 


36 

ter  but  differs  from  it  by  being  round  instead  of 
flat  on  Ae  top,  which  has  an  elevation  of  about 
thirty   feet   perpendicular  from  the  level  of  the 

been  perforated  by  the  proprietor,   nothing  has 

mount,  havmg  been  bur.  ows  or  cemetries.  They 
ta^fc  of  havmg  i,  levelled,  a,  it  projects  a  little 
into  .^arket  street,  but  I  think  it  a  pity  to  destroy 
any  of  the  very  few  vestiges  of  Aboriginal  popu^ 
buon  wh,ch  this  count.y  presents  to  the  curious 
and  inquisitive  traveller. 

"  From  a  steep  hill  about  three  hundred  feet 
perpendicular  height,  just  outside  the  western  ex- 
tremity  of  the  town,  is  a  most  champing  view  of 
the  streeu  immediately  below,  under  the  eye  like 
a  plan  on  paper;    then  the  Scioto  from  one  hun- 
dred to  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide,  wind- 
ing on  the  left,  with  some  low  hiUs  about  two 
miles  beyond  it,  terminating  the  view  to  the  north- 
east ;  while  to  the  eastward  and  to  the  westward 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  both  ways,  is  spread  a 
counto'  P-tly  flat,  and  partly  rising  i„  gentle 
swells,  which  If  cultivation  proceeds  in  equal  pro- 
portion to  what  it  has  done  since  Chilicothe  was 
first  laid  out,  about  ten  years  ago,  must  in  a  short 
..me^present  one  of  the  finest  landscapes  imagi- 

From  Chilicothe,  on  the  State  road,  to  Point 
FaUs,,s  eighteen  miles.  At  these  falls  is  the  town 

ot  Cambridge,  consistino.  «f  ,i,„.,. . ,. 

c  ,      Q  „.  """v/wt  twcusy  nouses, 


i7 

where  there  is  a  post-office.     The  falls  will  admit 
of  extensive  water-vvorks,  and  the  country  around 
them  consists  of  u  rich  eoil.     Two  miles  below 
the  falls,  Point  river  has  washed  away  the  side  of 
a  hill  that  bordered  on  the  bank,  which  has  ex- 
posed to  view  a  great   variety  of  fossils.     The 
hill,  which  is  supposed  to  be  nearly  400  feet  high, 
seems  to  consist  principally  of  lamina    of   slate 
stone.      These  lamina  appear  to  be  cemented  to- 
gether  by  allum  and  copperas,  which  is  melted  and 
runs  out  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.     It  is  collected  by 
the  inhabitants  and  applied  to  common  use.  There 
are  round  lumps  of  a  mineral  substance,  from  the 
size  of  a  turkey's  egg  to  that  of  a  large  common 
ball,  frequently  rolling   down,  which  appear  to 
contam  sulphur,  lead,  and  copper.    In  the  vicinity 
ot  Pomt  river,  which  runs  into  the  Scioto   are  a 
great  variety  of  ochres  and  pigments  of  different 
colours,  as  well  as  minerals,  which  would  afford 
an  ample  field  for  the  investigation  of  the  miner- 
alogists.     Many  sulphur  springs  gush  out  from 
the  hills  ;n  the  neighbourhood  of  this  river 
South  of  the  State  road,  and  between  Point  and 

Sunfibh  Hills,  from  a  stream  of  that  name  which 
drams  them  and  discharges  itself  into  the  Ohio. 
f  hey  are  about  forty  miles  wide  from  Point  to  the 
Ohio,  and  about  sixty  miles  long  from  the  Sciot. 
to  the  Little  Miami.  The  greater  part  of  these  hill, 
are^so  steep  and  broken  that  no  settlements  can  be 
"^aue  upon  them.     But  in  those  parts  of  tliem 


(;  ■  < 


ilili 


38 

dlt  .'''"k'"'""'  °^  ^-^tW^tlon,  the  land  is  rich, 
rapidly,  increasing. 

The  ro«rn  ,,  situated  on  the  declivity  of  a  Ml 
cons.,t.„,,f  ,,,     ,i,.y  houses,  ^ostj  of  heied 

jusuce  of  the  county  of  Adams.     From  West 

tucky  on  the  great  road,  the  land  is  mostly  hilly 
the  soil  nch  and  clothed  with  large  timber  nri„ 
cipally  oafc  and  hickoVy.  '  ^ 

road'tVT""  T"'  °'  ''''"'""'«  """J  '^-^  State 
road  to  Limestone,  are,  A- =.bout  twenty  miles 
n.oderate.y  hilly,  soil  good,  ...u,   ng  au'thTva-' 
riet>  of  timber  common  to     s      •    * 

pine.     North  of. Hirrc;mmV:;rD 
praine,  or  natural  meadow ;  which  e.tend   S 

the  Scoto  to  the  Little  Miami,  a  distance  of  sixt^ 

a  rection.     This  meadow  has  a  leyel  appearance 
but  .s  somewhat  an  inclined  plain,  which  produces' 
a  more  rapid  current  in  the  streams  of  water  than 
would  b.  expected.      Seyer'al  branches  If    he 

Srnott- *^''=  '''"^  "'^  '"'•''»  P>^" 
U  sufficendy  dry  for  culture.  It  is  covered  with 
long  coarse  grass.     Cattle  feed  eagerly  on  it  Ind 

rbr::r "''"  ^°°' "—  we^i::^ 

are  brought  every  sprini?  from   K". i...     __  , 


39 

fattened  here  for  the  fall  market.  The  soil  pro- 
duces good  com,  and  if  properly  cultivated  would 
probably  produce  large  crops  of  hemp.  Some 
parts  are  sprinkled  over  with  a  light  growth  of 
small  oaks  and  hickory.  In  other  parts  it  is  so 
entirely  destitute  of  any  growth  of  wood,  that  for 
a  great  distance  not  a  single  tree  is  to  be  seen. 
It  so  much  resembles  an  old  settled  country,  that 
tiie  traveller  is  constantly  looking  out  for  fences 
and  buUdings. 

The  town  of  Franklinton  is  situated  at  the  forks 
of  the  Scioto,  forty-five   miles  above  Chilicothe 
by  land,  and  about  seventy  by  water.  It  was  laid 
out  about  the  year  1 798,  by  Lucas  Sullivan,  Esq. 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Scioto,  opposite  to  the 
mouth  of  Whetstone  river,  and  on  a  beautiful 
swell  of  ^^round,  which  gradually  depends  in  every 
direction  from  the  centre  of  the  town.     It  con- 
tains about  an  hundred  houses,  ten  or  twelve  of 
which  are  built  of  brick.     It  is  the  seat  of  justice 
for  the  county  of  Franklin,  and  has  a  handsome 
brick  court  house,  with  a  neat  cupola.     On  one 
side  of  the  town  is  a  delightful  prairie,  and  on  the 
other  the  river  Scioto,  which  renders  the  prospect 
highly  pleasing.     The  land  ground  Franklinton, 
10  every  direction,  is  rich  and  level,  but,  at  a  few 
miles  distant,  wood  and  timber  become  scarce. 

Worthington  is  nine  miles  distant  on  the  Whef- 
stone  river.     It  was  laid  out  about  the  year  1 805 

by   the    Rev-   Tnmpo  v,m j    _,i         ^      * 

-  V         '■'   --iaj'-jiiii     %iuii    uincrs  iroiii 

Connecticut.      The  land  in  the  vicinity  of  this 


40 

town  i>  very  rich  and  level,  covered  «M,     , 
Sromh  of  timber,  princinal  v  hLT  "  '"S" 

»»d  ash.     It  produces  ex 'f  ^    '  '"^'"  *"'''•' 

will  probably  be  hi,.M.  f  .  "^getables,  and 

-Huto.nhL:eStr:™s:;sr^"'- 
^ounda^.  .„e!- r::-  oTieiTar^h:?: 

-'  .ustice  for  the  countv  of  ,hJ  '         "'' 

"ated  on  the  east  bank  of  fh  "'"'"'•  ^"*  »"■ 
level  and  good  in  everf  ^  "'"■•  ""•  "''  '"""^ 
present  .hi'lytettled      "^       ""°''  "«"  «'  •>«  »« 

The  Scioto  has  no  falls  from  the  mo.,,1.  .    ■ 
source,  and  glides  with  a  gentl.  currem    h         "* 

■^"n?f:orth?:ri^^^ 
-roni^tde;:^::-™^^--^^^^^^^ 

of  water  for  batteaj.::  J::.:*""  ""''■'""''''* 


!fl 


41 


The  county  of  Highland  lies  on  the  east  side 
of  this  river  and  south  of  the  great  prairie,  ex- 
tending eastward  within  twenty  miles  of  Chilico- 
the.  It  is  moderately  hilly,  the  soil  rich,  and  the 
growth  of  timber  generally  large.  Hillsborough 
is  the  seat  of  justice,  and  contains  about  thirty 
houses,  and  a  handsome  brick  court  house.  A 
tract  of  swaly,  wet  land,  about  eight  miles  in 
width,  passes  through  the  country,  which  drains 
a  part  of  the  grer.l  prairie.  Its  waters  run  off  by 
Oak  creek  into  the  Ohio.  The  road  from  Chili- 
cothe  to  Cincinnati  passes  through  it,  and  the 
deptli  of  mud  and  water  renders  travelling  ex- 
tremely troublesome  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 

The  people  settled  between  the  Scioto  and  Lit- 
tle Miami  are  mostly  from  Virginia  and  Ken- 
tucky, and  the  improvements  are  bconsiderable, 
excepting  near  Chilicothe. 

Immediately  below  the  mouth  of  the  Little 
Miami,  is  the  town  of  Columbia.  It  was  laid  out 
by  Col.  Symmes,  and  is  the  oldest  settlement  in 
the  State,  on  the  Ohio  river,  except  Marietta  ; 
but  has  increased  very  little  in  the  number  of  iti 
inhabitants. 

At  present,  it  is  only  a  neat,  pleasant  village, 
consisting  of  about  forty  houses,  built  at  some 
distance  from  each  other,  on  a  rich  bottom  or 
interval.  Nor  is  it  probable,  from  its  situation, 
thaj^it  will  ever  become  a  place  of  much  business. 

Oil  an  eastern  branch  of  the  Little  Miami^  i& 
Wmiamsburge,  th«  seat  of  justice. for  Clermont 
4' 


43 


county,  containing  about  fifty  houses,  and  a 
handsome  stone  court  house.  The  face  of  the 
country  is  hilly,  but  the  soil  is  rich,  especially  on 
the  banks  of  the  .iver,  where  the  lands  are  very 
nne.  ' 

Further  up  the  Miami  is  Lebanon,  situated  on 
the  bank,  and  the  largest  town  on  this  river.  It 
contains  about  an  hundred  houses  and  is  inhabited 
by  the  people  called  Shaking  Quakers.  They 
are  emigrants  from  Kentucky,  who  were  first 
formed  mto  a  regular  society  by  a  Mr.  Macna- 
mara,  who  still  continues  to  be  their  head.  They 
have  acquired  much  credit,  as  a  frugal,  industri- 
ous people. 

About   twenty-five    miles  above  Lebanon,  is 
Zema,  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  Miami,  and  is 
the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  cf  Greene.     It 
contains  about  fifty  houses  and  a  handsome  court 
house.,      The  country  around  it  is  level  and  fer- 
tile.    Nine  miles  above  this  town  is  a  very  sin- 
gular spring.     It  issues  near  the  brow  of  an  high  * 
flai  topped  hill,  about  a  mile  from   the  western 
bank  of  the  river.     Water  sufficient  to  carry  an 
over-shot  mill  issues  from  it,  and  the  quantity  has 
never  been  known  to  increase  or  diminish.     It 
throws  out  a  reddish  sediment,  which  concretes 
into  a  hard  mass,  forming  a  kind  of  bank,  which 
irequently  alters  the  position  of  the  spring.     The 
side  of  the  hill  is  very  steep,  and  the  elevation  of 
the   spriner  from  the  haR#»  r^f  #1,^  um   i_   ,• 
eighty  feet.    The  water  U  rery  cold  and  b».  a 


es,  and  a 
Face  of  the 
pecially  on 
s  are  very 

lituated  on 
river.  It 
)  inhabited 
rs.  They 
were  first 
r.  Macna- 
id.  They 
)  industri- 


banon,  is 
mi,  and  is 
•eene.  It 
)me  court 

1  and  fer- 
very  sin- 

f  an  high," 

2  western 
'  carry  an 
antity  has 
nish.  It 
concretes 
ik,  which 
Jg.  The 
^^ation  of 
ts   aDOui 

id  has  a 


43 


strange  taste  of  iron  and  copper.  It  is  in  high 
repute  for  its  medicinal  virtues,  and  is  become  a 
place  of  considerable  resort. 

The  land  further  up  the  river  is  level  and  the 
growth  principally  oak.     Although  the   soil   is 
rather  thin,  it  produces  good  wheat.     Springfield 
is  about  twenty  miles  above  Zenia,  consisting  of 
about  fifty  houses  and  the  most  of  them  well  built. 
It  is  situated  on  the  forks  of  Mad  river.    From 
Sringfield  to  Urbana  is  fourteen  miles.     The  land 
north  of  Springfield   is  much  richer  than   that 
which  lies  south  of  it.     Here  the  growth  varies 
from  oak  to  beach,  ash,  sugar-maple,  black  and 
white  walnut,  and  cherry.     Urbana  is  the  seat  of 
justice  for  the  county  of  Champaign.     It  contams 
about  sixty  houses  and  is  rapidly  increasing  in 
mhabitants.     From  this  town  to  the  Indian  boun- 
dary line  is  about  sixty  miles  ;  the  land  mostly 
level,  the  growth  large,   inclining  to  beach,   the 
water  good,  and  wiU   admit  of  many  excellent 
mill  seats. 

Returning  back  to  the  Ohio,  the  first  town  be- 
low Columbia  is  Cincinnati,  five  miles  distant. 
In  the  Ohio  Navigator  a  concise  and  correct 
description  is  given  of  this  town. 

"  Cincinnati  is  handsomely  situated  on  a  fir.*^ 
and  second  bank  of  the  Ohio,  opposite  Licking 
river.  It  is  a  flourishing  town,  has  a  rich,  level, 
and  well  settled  country  around  it.  It  contains' 
about  four  hundred  dwellings,  an  elegant  court 
house,  jail,  three  market  houses,  a  land  office  for 


44 

the  sale  of  Congress  lands,  two  printing  offiee. 
.«"■"« ''eekly  Gazettes,  thirty  mercantile  s.o  e  ' 
and  the  various  branches  of  mechanism  are  Jar 
r.ed  on  with  spirit.    Industry  of  everJLd  be*: 
du  y  e^coura^ed  by  the  citLns,   Sn'^^at "  if 
V^I  V'    "k  '  =°""'^«'»"«  manufacturing 

bv7„H     '    ^       °"'  ""■"  '>""''^«d  and  eighty 

four  s        as/accordin;r^,f  ^  H—d  tt 

pu  chase*^  and       T^     ''''"  "  ''"""'  ^^"""'»'' 
cal3  Ham  f,  ""'  "'  J"'""  f°'  "hat  is 

called  Hamilton  county,  Ohio.    I,  ha,  a  bank 

called  The  M,am,  Exporting  company.      The 
healthmess  and  salubrity  of  the  climafe ;  L  level 
ness  and  luxuriance  of  the  soil  •    .1,.       ■  . 

excellence  of  the  waters,  aVdei 'to  the  M" 
attendant  on  the  judiciou's  .Z^^^I^'TZZ 

populous,  equal  nerhaos   if  nT  ""''  "^"^ 

^^.puce;ofa:trLxr:rs.a:eT 

1  ne  site  of  Fort  Wfl«h;r.,»*«    •  •^wtes. 

IS  now  laid  out  in  town  w-  »     a  \  .    '    " 

-de  is  carried  on  between-'cinciTnaUrN:; 


4& 

Orleans  in  keel  boats,  which  return  laden  with 
foreign  goods.  The  passage  of  a  boat  of  forty 
tons  down  to  New  Orleans  is  computed  at  about 
twenty-five,  and  its  return  to  Cincinnati  at  about 
sixty-five  days. 

From  Cincinnati  to  North  Bend,  on  the  Ohio,  is 
sixteen  miles;  and  to  the  mouth  of  the  Great 
Miami,  where  the  west  boundary  line  of  the  State 
meets  the  Ohio,  is  seven  miles  further.     This 
tract  of  land,  which  extends  some  distance  from 
the  Ohio,  is  interval  of  the   first  quality ;  w«ll 
settled,  and  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation.     Re- 
ceding farther  back  from  the  Ohio,  the  land  is 
hilly,  the  soil  indifferent,  and  thinly  settled.     The 
road  up  the  Great  Miami  leaves  the  Ohio  at 
Cincinnati,  and  comes  to  the  Miami  at  Hamilton, 
fourteen   miles    di8t?»nt.     Hamilton  is  the  spot 
where  fort  Hamilton  formerly  stood.     It  is  situa- 
ted on  a  large  plain,  well  cultivatedi  but  does  not 
contain  more  than  ten  or  fifteen  houses.     It  has 
been  a  considerable  village,  but  since  Cincinnati 
has  so  rapidly  increased,    Hamilton  has  been  oi> 
the  decline.     Thirty-five  miles  above  Hamilton  is 
Franklin,  on  the  Great  Miami,  containing  abou^ 
sixty  houses,  built  on  one  street.     The  lands  ii4 
its  vicmity  are  level  and  rich,  and  have  some  of 
the  best  cultivated  farms  in  the  State.     Dayton  is; 
thirty  miles  above  Franklin ;    the  country  mor^ 
level  than  below,  and  the  lands  well  settled  and 
improved.     The   town   is  situated  on  the  east 
branch  of  the  Great  Miami  at  the  mouth  of  Mad 


I 

f 

If 


46 

rivtr.     Its  situation  is  Dleawnf  k  ,• 
by  a  rich  country,  and  hidsT  r' ."."^ '""°""''''' 
of  considerable  business    I,  I '„,     "^"r"*  •""" 
Houses,  the  n,ost  of  ^hllih'  ^  S'  "t 
the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Mo '1       • 
On  the  west  side  of  the  Mifn,    f  ^  f^Xj 
Dayton,  comes  in  a  large  branch,  caUed  S  ll^atr 
This  branch  eitends  from  the  Miami       ^"''- 
X  ''T""'"''3'ond  the  li  o^hTs't,:  Xh 

.^^t  haTb  .„  setded  T  "'"  T'  '^^''-      ^hi. 
Quakers  ,h!  ^  ^  ""'"''"  °^  F«n«=h  or 

?sro:t::;rt-':f«--f  South 

-J  economy,  th^^y  J^/  .tteWe:t:: 

;:;:::r°"?h;-ticrit7i''^^^^^^^ 
-y  productive.  LX^rirrtrs^ 

fifty  mnef'^The'l  "Z  '"*""  ""'>  »""'•  "  »"-' 
""X  rauea.     l  he  lands  are  mosUv  level  anH  .•  u 

From  the  Indian  boundary  the  uL!  ' 

level  to  the  head  watertTf  h,  stre  rirr"^ 
•ntolake  Erie.  Some  por^  T.risttTf 
country   s  inundaierl  i«  ♦»,       •  **^'   °^ 

tivn  «/*k  """'^^^'^^  »»  *he  winter  and'sprina  for 
two  or  three  months      Th«  u    j  *^     * 

tiiv^iuiis.      ^  ug  i^g^   Waters   nf  *k^ 

mam  branch  of  the  Great  Miami,  calleTrerliS 

Gule   °rr'""'-  '^  "  ""-'P-fge.  with  Au 
ri::.!'""!  ™°'  •»«<>  the  Miami  of  the  lake. 

■"■"  """""'■'"  °"''^'''  ""y  »  Po«age  of  somewhat 


4f 

greater  length,  with  Sandusky  river.  The  port- 
age is  likewise  short  from  the  Scioto  to  this  river, 
and  great  advantages  are  expected  to  result  to  the' 
State  of  Ohio,  in  future  time,  by  a  communica- 
tion  between  the  waters  which  descend  to  the 
Ohio,  and  those  which  run  into  the  lakes. 

The  waters  of  the  Great  Miami  are  not  inter- 
ruptedby  falls,or  considerable  rapids  for  three  hun- 
dred  miles.     Large  boats  can  pass  from  Dayton 
to  the  Ohio,  the  greater  part  of  the  year.     But 
being  subject  to  a  much  greater  decrease  of  wat.^r 
It  is  less  favourable  to  navigation  than  the  M us ' 
kmgum  nor  is  the  river  equally  good  for  the  pas- 
sage  of  boats  at  any  season.  This  river  furnishes 
excellent  fish,  mostly  of  the  same  kind,  but  some- 
what of  a  greater  variety,  than  the  Scioto.     Con- 
siderable quantities  of  fine  fish  are  taken  in  the 
Little  Miami,  which  aiford  a  good  supply  for  the 
market,  at  Cincinnati,  in  summer  and  autumn. 

The  strean^s  in  every  part  of  the  State  are  well 
stocked  with  fish  of  various  kinds.     The  most  of 

tZ  -'T'''  ''  *'''''  ^P^'^^^^"^  ^^ff^rent  from 
those  m  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  States.  But 
similar  names  are  applied  to  many  of  them.  The 
black  and  yellow  cat-fish  are  of  the  largest  sLe 
and  weigh  from  four  or  five  to  more  than  on^ 
hundred  pounds  They  nearly  resemble  tne  pou 
of  N.w  England.  The  pike  diifer  little  from 
those  over  the  mountains  in  form,  but  are  much 
larger.     Some  h       '  _      >         are  much 


n^^k*«     .. 


pou„a,.ei«h;;-^-:3:-^3;2: 


48 

geon,  bats,  and  salmon,  but  differ  from  those 
fish  in  the  northern  States.  The  buffaloe  fish 
seem  to  be  peculiar  to  these  waters,  and  are  said 
to  be  so  called  on  account  of  a  noise  they  make 
m  the  water,  resembling  a  buffaloe. 

The  State  undoubtedly  abounds  in  a  great  va- 
riety of  fossils,  such  as  clayes,  ochres,  pigments, 
and  the  most  useful  ores,  but  it  has  been  very  lit- 
tle explored.     The  waters   of  the  Scioto,  and 
some  parts  of  the  Ohio,  particularly  the  rapids 
possess  a  petrifying  quality.      Pieces  of  wood' 
small  fish,and  other  an;mal8,have  been  found  com-' 
pletely  changed  into  stone.  The  bones  of  animals 
of  an  enormous  size,  and  some  of  the  skeletons 
nearly  complete,   have  been   dug  up   in  several 
places,  particularly  at   Big  Bone  creek,  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Ohio. 

.     The   quadrupeds   w.ich  are  native  are    the 
buffaloe,  elk,  red  deer,#   bear,   wolf,    grey  and 
black  fox,  panther,  wild   cat,   rackoon,  beaver, 
porcupine,  ground  hog,  grey  and  black  squirrels, 
and  those  smaller  animals  which  are  found  in 
similar  climates.     As  the  settlements  have  ad- 
vanced,  the  buffaloe  and  el^  have  retreated  into 
the  uncultivated  country.     Grey  and  black  squir- 
rels still  continue  in  prodigious  numbers.     They 

'The  fawns,  when  very  young,  are  often  found  asleep 

«  readily  as  h.s  ao^.  and  come  and  eat  bread  out  of  his 
hand.    In  this  wav  the  d*'—  o.-  ...:•..  :,.__     ..        .  "  '"^ 


4f 

are  frequently  seen  swimming  across  the  largest 
rivers,  and  are  extreme'^  destructive  to  fields  of 
Indian  corn. 

Of  the  winged  fowls,  the  swan  and  pelican  are 
sometimes  seen ;  geese,  brant,  and  ducks  of  various 
species,  are  found  in  the  rivers ;  turkies,  pheas- 
ants, partridges,  and  quails  in  abundance,  in  the 
forests.     Turkies  are  still  in  great  plenty,  though 
perhaps  not  so  numerous,  as  before  ^!.e  setUements 
commenced.     They  are  of  a  I^.rge  size,  and  the 
flesh  of  an  excellent  flavour.     Large  flocks  visit 
the  wheat  fields  after  sowing,  and  at  the  time  of 
harvest,  and  often  greatly  injure  the  crop.  When 
their  eggs  are  hatched  under  hens,  the   turkey 
chickens  wiU  be  tame,  and  in  this  way  the  wild 
turkey  is  easily  domesticated.     The  pigeons  are 
so  numerous   as  almost    to    exceed   credibility 
At  certain  times  in  the  year,  vast  flights  resort  to 
particular  places,  called  pigeon  roosts.     Many  of 
these  roosts  extend  over  more  than  an  hundred 
acres  of  land,  and  it  is  said,  some  have  been  found 
to  exceed    a  thousand  acres.     They  light  upon 
the  trees  in  such  numbers  as  to  fill  all  the  branches 
and,  by  their  weight,  break  off"  large  limbs.     Ev- 
ery tree  in  these  extended  roosts  is  kiHed,  and 
the  dung  on  the  ground,  which  has   been  found 
from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  deep,  destroying 
every  species  of  vegetation  beneath  them.     The 
green  paroquet  with  a  yellow  crown,  a  species  of 
^ne  parrot,  is  very  common,     u  i,«o  „u_.  _. 
pleasant  note,  and  alil.ough  easily  tamed,  it  cannot 

'3 


I! 


so 

kl  of tV°  w'T  *'  '■"'"'"'  '"''=''  '^^^  hab- 
xlval!,  ""'  "^»-">-  respect  ai„gu,„. 
i  hey  art  always  seen  ia  flocka,  which  re.ire  at 
n.eht,  ,„.o  hollow  trees,  frequently  in  larg    n^n^. 

Ihese  flocks  also  retreat  to  hollow  trees  in  the 
^mter.  There  have  been  found  after  a'evele 
.be"whor    ?'°"'  ?"""="  '"  ""  '"'S*  '^«.  filling 

:XtmT^;irA-;::^ttr;r^^-''' 

Of  other  lar,e  ana  sn,allMXUr:rrf 
them  are  s.m.lar  to  those  which  are  indigenous 
-  .he  northern  and  middle  Atlantic  States.^ 

Some  of  the  people,  who  first  emigrated  into 
^hs  country,  had  fearful  apprehensions  of  vent 

a™rTvaI      tT"'    "J  """^  ^°°"  "'''''"  -  •"-^ 
tnd   which      T       ,"•■■'  ^^-y  "-"rly  of  the  same 

A^laml  t  "'   """'^ '"  '^'  "■'"'*'''  '"><'  "-.hern 
Atlanfc   States,-   probably  not  so  numerous  as 

^ey«,ere  .there,  on  their  first  settlement.     The 

be  near  the  places  where  they  have  dens.     The 

he  trunks  of  fallen  trees  and  about  rubbish,  under 
wh.ch  they  retreat  in  the  winter.  They  resem' 
ble  the  ratde  snake  in  colour,  but  not  so  ClaTe 

•The  large  collection  of  feathers  fmin.i   :„      i    n 
In  W-»ff.i.fn,.,i         1  .     ""^'-"^^  ^  round  .n  a  hollow  tree, 

in  wateiford,  and  e.vam  ned  hv  the  Rev  TVf,.  ir      • 
nrnl  ihli,  *i,^  f    ..  «  '  «e\',  Mr.  llarris,,  were 

pi  OLably  the  feathers  of  these  h;iv1«      w      •»    r       '      ^'  = 


St 


less  active  and  destitute  of  rattles.     Their  bite  is 
not  considered  so  dangerous  as  that  of  the  rattle 
snake.     They  have  five  or  six  very  small  poison- 
ous teeth,  placed  in  the  same  sack,  on  each  side 
of  the  upper  jaw;  the  rattle  snake  has  only  one 
on  each  side,  but  are  very  large.     The  moccason 
snake,  which  is   very  common   in  the   Carolinas, 
has  been  seen  in  some  parts  of  the  State,  but  very 
rarely.     In  the  prairies,  a  very  si..all  rattle  snake, 
about  the  size  of  a  man's  finger,  and  ten  or  twelve 
inches  in  length,  is  frequently  found  among  the 
grass.     They  are  called  the  prairie  rattle  snake, 
and  are  said  to  be  venomous.     These  are    all  the 
poisonous  snakes  found  in  this  country.     There 
are  two  kinds  of  water  snake ;    the  backs   are 
black,  and  the  belly  of  the  one  is  a  bright  red, 
and  of  the  other  of  an  ash   colour.     The  other 
snakes  are  the  common  black  snakes  ;  some  with 
a  ring  round  the  neck,  but  the  most  of  them  have- 
none;    the  striped  and    green   snake,    and    the 
speckled  snake,   usually  called  the  house  adder. 
Lizards,  of  various  colours,  and  some  of  them 
very  beautiful  and  active,  are  plenty.    At  the  falls 
of  Point  Creek,  a  remarkably  large  water  lizard 
has  been  taken  with  the  hook,  while  fishing  for 
the  cat  and  other  fish.     The  form  is  that  of  a  liz- 
ard ;  the  skin,  in  colour  and  smoothi^ess,  resem- 
bles the  New  England  pout;    the  leg.  short,  and 
the  tail  flattened  like  an  eel.    When  a  pressure  L. 


mad 


e  on  the  hnrlxr      fKw.f, 
— j^  _ 


iUiiae  on  the  hnHxr      fKw.I,     ^:ii 

^-7    .t'lv-A,  nuis.y  mailer,   m 

drops,  and  perfectly  white,  exudes  from  the 


s.y  mailer,   m  large 


I 


por 


tK 


of  the  »kin.    Some  have  been  caugh,  of  eight  or 
ten  pounds  weigh,.    They  are  not  a^phiC 
for  they  w.U  not  live  longer  out  of  the  water  than 
.he  pout  or  eel.   The  other  reptile,,  and  the  grea" 
variety  of  .nsect,,  found  in  this  country,  do  no 


.J' 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  DESCRIPTION 


OF   THE 


INDIANA  TERRITORY. 


1  HIS  part  of  the  northwestern  country  was  con- 
stituted a  territorial   government,   by  an  act  of 
Congress,  passed  the  nh  day  of  May,  1800,  and 
was  bounded  eastwardly  by  the  following  line  of 
separation  ;  viz.  "All  that  part  of  the  territory  of 
the  United  States,  northwest  of  the  Ohio  river 
which  lies  westward  of  a  line  beginning  at  the 
Ohio,  opposite  to  the  mouth    of  the   Kentucky 
river,  and  running  thence  to  fort  Recovery,  and 
thence  north  until   it  shall  intersect  the  territorial 
line  between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  shall, 
for  the  purpose  of  a  temporary  government,  con- 
stitute a  separate  territory,  and  be  called  the  In- 
diana Territory.     And   Saint  Vincennes,  on  the 
Wabash  river,  shall  be  the  seat  of  the  govern- 
ment."    Only  the  eastern  boundary  is  named  in 
the  act,  and  the  Indian  claim  of  a  large  portion  of 
the  Territory  is  not  extinguished.     The  whole 
tract,  agreeable  to  this  line,  is  bounded  south  by 
5* 


If  f 


the  OMo   west  by  the  Mississippi,  a„d  north  by 

*h.ch  makes  the  extent  of  this  Territon-  consider 
ally  greater  than  the  State  of  Ohio 

a  Jvtl  bu?"'  '""  °'  ''^  ~"""y  Wroaches  to 

through  it  to .': Oh  o  s  Mis!"  """;'"'"^ 

smaller  strean  .  ^na  M'ssissipp,,  and  many 

lakes  '  ''°""  °'  "^''^  ^"^  into  the 

The  Wabash  is  a  larire  riv,..    ,•  • 
head  waters  of  the  river  Lr        k   '"^  "'"  "^^ 

"O"'""",  ■"  «i.i.«l  F™.h  .ill.„    "",  -     • 

theMia^ittrrstrrakeTir'S"""'"' 

•age  is  eight  miles,  and  comes  to  .hni-  '""■' 
Fort  Wayne.  -^Hiami  near 

From  a  north  branch    htr  ^     u 
-munication  is  ma^^^^Lt:  /salTr  " 
seph,  running  into  Lake  Michigan    Tb    w.-^t 

rt;ttra""T"'"^^^^^^ 

Vincennes'"^;T: ;::r'  T'"  '''"' 
-hich  principally  oblT  H  Zt,  ^""'^ 
between  Saint  V;no«  ,  navigation    are 

--  .tsiu   vvniic  river,  callfiti 


the  great  Rapids.   Near  the  village  Ouiatan,  it  is 
said  a  silver  mine  has  been  discovered,  which  it 
is  apprehended  will  prove  valuable.    About  forty 
miles  below  the  village  comes  in  the  river  Ver- 
miUion  Jaune.     On  this  river  is  the  residence  of 
the  much  famed  Indian  Prophet.     The  town  in 
which  he  lives  is  large  for  an  Indian  village,  and 
has  received  the  name  of  the  Prophet's  town. 
Much  of  the  land  on  the  Wabash  is  rich  and  well 
timbered,  but  towards  the  head  waters  there  is 
less  ttmber,  and  very  fertile  and  extensive  prairies. 
A  white  and  blue  clay  of  an  excellent  quality  is 
said  to  abound  on  this  river.     There  are  many 
salt  springs,  and  plenty  of  lime  and  free  stone. 

haint  Vmcennes  is  a  handsome  town,  about  an 
hundred  miles  fron  the  mouth  of  the  river,  situ- 
ated on  the  east  bank,  upon  a  beautiful,  level, 
and  rich  spot  of  ground.     It  is  the  largest  town 

ment       '^w""^'  "'"'  "  """'^  '^'  ^^"  °^  S"""- 
Post  Saint  Vmcennes.     Since  the  American  rev- 
olution  the  town  has  been  repaired  and  enlarged, 
and  IS  now  a  v.ry  thriving  place,  but  the  inhabi- 
ants  St.  I  are  mostly  French.     There  are  more 
than  an  hundred  houses,  some  of  which  are  built 
of  free  stone,  in  a  handsome  style,  a  considerable 
number  of  merchantile  stores,  a  post  office  and 
printing  office.    Here,  a  proHtable  trade  is  carried 
on  in  furs  and  peltry.     The  situation  is  healthy, 
the  winters  mild,  and  •''• -:-i-   — j  i,-_. .        .. 
vated  lands  around  it  are  delightful. 


56 

About  forty  miles  from  Saint  Vincennes,  in 
a  southwesterly  direction,  is  t^e  Great  Sabine  so 
called,  where  salt,  in  large  quantities,  i,  „ade. 
I.  .3  situated  ,n  hilly  land,  on  a  stream  of  wa.e 
wh.ch  flows  into  the  Ohio.     The  land  is  s  , 
owned  by  the  government  of  the  United  Sta 
but  rented  to  th.se  who  carry  on  the  salt  worf 
and  who  are  sa.d  to  obligate  themselves  to  make 
at  least,  a  certam  quantity  annually,  and  are  no 

permutedtoseUitformorethanaUstipuJed 
p.  .ce.  The  waters  in  this  Saline  are  said  to  have 
double  the  strength  of  those  at  the  great  salt 
springs  on  the  Scioto  river. 

The  land  on  the  Indiana  side,  bordering  on  the 
Oh,o  rtver  from  the   Great  Miami  nearly  to  th 
M.ss,ss,pp,,  a  distance  of  about  six  hundred  mile 
"  generally  hilly  and  broken,  but  some  excTlen: 
bottoms,   of  different   extent,    are  interspersed.' 
From   a  small  distance  above  fort  Massai  and 
down  to  the  mouth  of  the   Ohio,  the  land  grad- 
ually becomes  level,  forming  a  rich  and  delightful 
prame.     In  this  distance,  there  are  manv  smal 
sucams  but  no  considerable  river,  excepting  the 
Wabash,  which  falls  into  the -Ohio 

But  on  the  opposite  side,  within  a  less  distance 
hree  large,  navigable  rivers,  besides  numerous 
^mler  «rea™s,  contribute  their  waters  to  the 
Ohio.  The  first  ,s  Kentucky  river,  which  comes 
n  about  seventy  miles  following  the  bends  of  the 
nver  below  the  Great  Miami,  i,  ni„e,v  vard» 
>v-c  at  Its  mouth,  and  the  same  width,  when  the 


57 

water  is  high,  eighty  miles  above.     It  is  naviga- 
ble for  loaded  boats,  at  a  high  stage  of  the  water, 
two  hundred  miles.     The  second  is  the  Cumber* 
land,  or  Shawnee  river,  which  falls  into  the  Ohio 
about   five  hundred   miles  below  the   Kentucky- 
river,  and  four  hundred  miles  below  the  Rapids* 
and  is  three  hundred  yards  wide   at  its  mouth. 
There  being  no  obstructions,   and  having  a  fine 
gentle  current,  ships  of  f^ur  hundred  tons   can 
descend  in  times  of  floods  from  the  distance  of 
about  four  hundred  miles  into  the  Ohio.     The 
third  is  the  Tennessee,  or  Cherokee  river,  which 
enters  the  Ohio,  about  twelve  miles  below  the 
Cumberland ;  and  is    five  hundred  yards  wide  at 
its  mouth.     This  is  the  largfest  river  that  empties 
into  the   Ohio.     It  is  computed  to  be   navigable 
for  boats  one  thousand  miles,  and  will  admit  ves- 
sels of  considerable  burden  as  far  as  the  Muscle 
Shoals,  which  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles  from 
its  mouth. 

On  the  Indiana  side  of  the  Ohio,  there  are  only 
some  scattering    settlements,    excepting    Jeffer- 
sonville,  and    Clarksville,  two  small  villages,  at 
the  Rapids,  one  hundred  and   fifty  miles  below 
the   Great  Miami.     Jeffersonville   is  situated  in 
the  bend  of  the  river,  on  an  high  bank,  just  above 
the  Rapids,  where  pilots  are  taken  off  for  conduct- 
i«g  vessels  over  them.     It  is  a  post  town,  but 
contains  only  a  small  number  oi  inhabitants,  and 
probably  will  never  be  a  thriving  place.     Clarks- 
ville is  another  small  village  immediately  below 


S8 

the  Rapids  and  opposite  the  elbow. at  Shipping. 

e:hie     "ureL"   oT   ^ '""'  ^  ?''"  °^  '°-''- 
midwav  h!  u  °PP°""=  ''»"''.  about 

midway  bet«recn  these  two  villages  and  opposite 

and  b.ds  fa,r  to  become  a  flourishing  town,     if  h 
Situated  on  an  elevafprl  „io-  i  ^ 

eral  ware  houses  for  storing  jroods     \u;^  • 
P0«  is  on  the  same  side,  atL't'of  ^JS' 
Here,  boats  generally  make  a  landing  after  n,.' 
the  Rapids.     Shin  buildin„.  ,  "'"S  ^''^"^  Pa^'ng 
r  >Jmp  ouiidmg  was  beran  and  nro. 

carried  on  with  considerable  spirit   here    un.M  ! 
received  a  check  by  the  late  JJ^oZ'.     Hav 
ingan  exceUent  harbour,   the  situa.  nT 

■=  ""'<>  "ver.  The  distance  over  them 
is  aoout  two  »•  les    an,l  .1,.    I  , 

ah,    .•    .  '"""'"«• ''"cent  from  a  level 

abc   e  s  twenty-two  feet  and  a  half.     When  Z 
V'ater  is  high  the  fall  is  only  perceivedTv 
creased  velocity  of  the  vessel   wM  V.  ^       '"" 

to  be  at  the  rate  of  Z,  !       '  "  "'»?""='• 

hour      Wh      1  "'  '""  °''  '"*'"«  >»""  an 

hour.     When  the  water  is  low,  a  large  portion  of 

the  rocks  are  seen,  and  it  is  then  that  the  nail 
"""'"  dangerous.    There  are  three  channeU; 


at  Shipping- 
e  of  consid- 
bank,  about 
nd  opposite 
nuch  larger, 
town.     It  is 
Uains  about 
iting  and   a 
I  has  a  con- 
>s,  and  sev- 
Shipping- 
>f  the  falls, 
fter  passing 
a  and  was 
re,  until  it 
iw.     Hav- 
'n  appears 
to  advan- 

e  of  rocks 
nd  is  the 
the  whole 
3ver  them 
m  a  level 
»Vhen  the 
hy  an  in- 
:omputed 
miles  an 
ortion  of 
'  passao'e 
:hannelg* 


49 

One  is  on  the  north  side,  called  Indian  Schute, 
and  is  the  main  channel,  but  not  passable  when 
the  water  is  high  ;   another  is  near  the  middle  of 
the  river,  and  called  the   Middle  Schute,  and  is 
safe  and  easy  in  all  heights  of  water  above  the  mid- 
die  stage.     The  third  is  on  the  south  side,  called 
the  Kentucky  Schute,  and  is  only  passable  when 
the  water  is  high.     Immediately  above  the  falls, 
m  the  mouth  of  Beargrass  creek,  is  a  good  har- 
hour,  having  twelve  feet  of  water  in  the  lowest 
stage  of  the  river.     At  the  foot  of  the  falls  is 
another  harbour,  called  Rock  Harbour,  with  water 
sufficient,  at  all  times,  for  vessels  of  any  burden. 
These  two  harbours  are  of  the  greatest  importance 
to  those  who  have  occasion  to  navigate  this  dan- 
gero"<J  passage. 

Opening  a  channel  for  the  passage  of  ships  by 
the  Rapids  has  been  seriously  contemplated  \  which 
would  be  of  immense  advantage  to  the  trade  of 
the  Ohio.  That  it  is  practicable  cannot  be  doubted* 
rhe  only  difficulty  seems  to  be  to  raise  a  fund  suf- 
ficient for  the  purpose.     It  has  been  principally 
proposed  to  open  the  canal  on  the  Kentucky  side 
to  commence  below  Beargrass  creek,  and  enter 
the  nver  below  Shippingport,  a  distance  of  about 
one  mile   and  three  quarters  ;  and  that  it  should 
be  sufficient  for  ships  of  four  hundred  tons.     The 
ground  through  which  it  would  pass  is  a  stiff  clay, 
down  to  within  about  three  feet  of  the  flower  of 

the  canals   wKJ/nK  *\^^^    :_  _  .        .^. 

.        „..,..,,  ,„^„  ^g  .J  ^^^^^     ^^^  average 

depth  of  the  canal  is  computed  at  about  twenty- 


m 


1  f .  ■  ■■' . 


pne  feet,  in  order  to  admit  a  column  of  water 
three  feet  by  twenty-four,  at  the  lowest  stage  of 
the  river.*  ** 

In  passing  down  the  Ohio,  about  forty  miles 
below  the  Wabash,  a  curious  cave  is.  sefn  in  a 
high  bank,  on  the  Indiana  side.    Its  mouth  opens 
to  the  r.ver,  and  when  the  water  i.  high  it  nearly 
flows  into  u.     The  entrance  is  an  arch  in  a  rock 
about  twenty.five  feet  high  in  the  centre,  eighty 
ftet  wide  at  the  base,  and  extending  back  from 
the  opening  one  hundred  and  eighty  feei.     The 
mouth  is  darkened  by  several  large  trees  growing 
before  it,  which  give  it  a  gloomy  and  solemn  ap 
pearance.     Passengers  usually  visit  it,  and  have 
engraved  on  the  sides  within  the  mouth,  a  great 
number  of  names,  dates  and  other  inscriptbns. 
Indian   superstition  and  other    fabulous  stories 
reported   respecting  this  cave   do  not  merit   a 
repetition. 

■  .f  ""her  down  the  river,  and  within  forty-six 
miles  of  its  mouth,  is  fort  Massac,  situated  on  a 
high  commanding  bank,  where  a  Lieutenant's 
command  h  stationed.  It  was  originally  built  by 
the  French.  Here  the  land  is  rich  and  level, 
consisting  principally  of  natural  meadow,  with 

•  In  the  Ohio  Navigator  a  very  accurate  description  i, 
g.ve„  of  the  Rapid,  with  an  excellent  map  of  the  (all.  From 
t^,  descr.pt.on  the  account  of  them  here  given,  is  principally 
taken,  lo  th.s  very  valuable  work,  the  writer  is  indebte.1 
for  many  observations  respecting  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi 

— .  •ti%-iiiig  Upuii  UlClTl. 


fin  of   water 
vest  stage  of 

i 

t  forty  miles 
is,  seen  in  a 
mouth  opens 
igh  it  nearly 
•ch  in  a  rock 
:ntre,  eighty 
back  from 
feci.     The 
?es  growing 
solemn  ap- 
tj  and  have 
Jth,  a  great 
tiscriptions. 
3us  stories 
t   merit   a 

n  forty-six 
uated  on  a 
eutenant*s 
ly  huilt  by 
md  level, 
ow,  with 

scriptlon  ia 
falls.  From 
(principally 
s  indebted 
Mississippi 
he  country 


61 

some  beautiful  groves,  or  copses  of  large  trees. 
Near  the  fort,  and  along  the  banks  of  the  river 
there  are  a  number  of  settlers,  who  have  well 
cultivated  gardens  and  fields,  which  are  very  pro- 
'luctive.  At  a  small  distance  below,  is  Wilker- 
>onviIle,  situated  on  a  bluff,  formerly  called  Cedar 
fluffs,  but  has  very  few  inhabitants. 

On  the  river  Mississippi,  the  first  settlement  of 
any  note  in  the  Indiana  Territory,  is  the  villajre 
Kaskaskia.     It  is  an  ancient  French  town,  about 
nmety  mdes  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio   situ 
ated  on  the  Kaskaskia  river,  at  the  distance  of  five 
miles  from  the  Mississippi.    The  village  contains 
^bout  one  hundred  houses,  and  the  inhabitants 
principally  French.    In  the  vicinity  of  this  village 
the  land  is  excellent  and  highly  cultivated.     The 
nyer  Kaskaskia  is  navigable  about  one  hundred 
miles,  and  drains  an  extensive  tract  of  level  coun 
try.     There  is  a  road  leading  from  Saint  Vin- 

So"  %^''''f^  -"^S^>  ^^^rly  in  .  west 
direction      This  road  passes  through  almost  one 
continued  prairie  for  about  two  hundred  miles 
there  being  only  scattered  copses  of  wood,  which 
have  the  appearance  of  small  islands,  in  a  wide 
extended  bay.     These  natural  meado'ws  are'v 
ered  with  a  tall  grass,  and  the  sun  appears  to  rise 
and  set  m  tne  grass.     On  this  road  th^re  are  C 
sett  ers,  and  the  traveller  is  obliged,  for  seve  a" 
n.ghts,  to  lodge  in  the  grass  or  cop;es  of  wood 
In  this  praine,  large  herds  of  buffaloe,  elk   and 


I 


French  n,  ^  "'»"PP',    and   inhabited   by 

ir  a  ffio  jr 'rtd "  '""•"  "'-™' 

eighty  houses.     The  ,;„rfher     ir"T'  '"'°"* 
W^.  and  covered  vvichC^C/'^''''-''X 

".Ue,  abo,e  .^e  n,outh  of    he\to:ri '"' 

navigable  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles     W 

ous  tributary  streams  fall  in,o\  ol  totfr,"" 

seme  of  which  ar^  «i  .  ^"  ^'^^'^s, 

distance       The  IS:  TT r'  '  .^""'"^^""^ 
the  river    fro™  .K  M"=h'I'macIcinac   enters 

n:net;:L'Z:^rl:-^-J"ndredand 

•hechich  go  ;r:;7ch"7  ^''"'  "^'^'^  »'■ 

portage  of  only  two  m!l.«         ^  '  '  '''°" 

munication  betfveentreM;  "''""?  ""  "^"^  '^'""- 
■f  he  naviff„io„  ^1  Mississippi  and  the  lakes. 

siclerabi    bTdci    f"""";",""'"''''"'- ^"^^'^  "^»"- 

^^"3.  Fr:rz;'.eE:"^t?;;sr''f'^«-» 

-Hich  empties  into  the  Hu    o^    tt  ai^  ^T 
P°«ages  do  not  exceed  twenty,  i"  mi L     '  Th 

gation  IS  opened  between  New  Orleans  n,Kl 


63 

New  York ;    a  d  stance  computed  to  be  nearly 
four  thousand  miles.     Perhaps  there  is  not  to  be 
found  an  inland  navigation  of  equal  extent,  in  any 
part  of  the  world.     Another  large  branch  of  the 
Illinois  rises  near  the  river  Saint  Joseph,  passing 
south  of  Lake   Michigan,   where  a  portage  may 
be  easily  formed.    It  is  called  the  Theakiki  river. 
The  banks  of  the  Illinois  are  generally  high. 
The  bed  of  the  river  being  a  white   marble,  or 
clay,  or  sand,  the  waters  are  remarkably  clear.  It 
abounds  vith  beautiful  islands,  one  of  which  is 
ten  miles  long  ;    and  adjoining  or  ne?r  to  it,  are 
many  coal  mines,  salt  ponds,  and  small  lakes.     It 
passes  through   one  lake,  iv;o  hundred  and  ten 
miles  from  its  mouth,  which  is  twenty  miles  in 
length,  and  three  or  four  miles  in  breadth,  called 
Illinois  lake.     The  river,  and  waters  communi- 
eating  with  it,  are  replenished  with  a  variety  of 
excellent  fish.  The  large  tract  of  country  through 
which  this  river  and  its  branches  meander,  is  said 
not  to  be  exceeded  in  beauty,  levdness,  richness, 
and  iertihty  of  soil,  by  any  tract  of  land,  of  equal 
extent,   in  the  United  States.     From  the  Illinois 
to   the  Wabash,  excepting  some  little    distance 
from  the  rivers,  is  almost  one  continued  prairie, 
or  natural   meadow,  intermixed  with  groves,  or 
copses  of  wood,  and  some  swamps  and  small  lakes. 
These  beautiful,  and,  to  the  eye  of  the  beholder 
unlimited  fields,   are   covered  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  ol  grass,  and  other  vegetable  productions, 
wiuch  afford  fattening  and  plentiful  grazing  for 


I*  mbi 


64 

lr':2'yolf  °'  '"""""'  •"'•  "»"  "«-  AH 

of  1  InlnV T''^  "'  '"""'^  '»  "'"'-  P-'" 
abounrl  Territory ;    but  different   kinds 

abound  more  ,n  some  situation,  and  soils  than  i„ 

steo^thJ  K   t"  »  S««  difference  in  the 

different  soT",°'  u  "  """=  ^""^  "'  "«'-  - 
^r«,.  •  ^^"'^-^Pple,  plumb,  and  cherrv  trees 

ihabi'J?*  r"'"'"  <'^8"'P".of«hiY,he 
>«hab.tan  s  male  a  good  red  wine,  for  their  own 
consumptio,.     It  i,  .^Jd  ;„  ,he  year VrsT  n! 
hundred  and  ten  hogshead,  of  Je'ta^    '  ^ 

w^ria^  r  s"^ '''  'T'  ""■-' 
«nd.hitef„r„,:;:;r;:;f '-'■'>'- 

rhe  settlers  on  this  river  are  almost  entirelv 

ages.     Where    the  land  is  cultivated,  it  yield, 
arge  crops  o    almost  every  article  th  y  comml 
to  the  ground.     It  has  been  found  that  tobZ 

::X"''-'"'«--^-»^-'"'--rh 

Between  the  Illinois  and  the  falls  of  Saint  An 

nr;ae''r"  °''"'°"'  ''«^"  """'•-'-  -- 

enty  m,les,  there  are  a  large  number  of  consider- 
able streams,  and  some  of  them  navigable  riverl 
wl..ch  come    from  the    eastward  and    discW 
their  waters  into  th^  Mi..:„:-_.      ^.     °'."""ge 
-""'"'fi".     ineioilowing 


'i  i 


■**, 


d  deer.  AH 
>s,  common^ 
some  parts 
rent   kinds 
oils  than  in 
?nce  in  th« 
>f  trees,  in 
od  of  the 
hcrry  trees 
ibundance. 
^ably,  pro- 
which  the 
their  own 
15^69,  one 
isted  a^'d 
I  settlers, 
nd  black 

entirely 
mall  vil- 
it  yields 

comn^it 
tobacco, 
to  much 

int  An- 
tnd  sev« 
)nsider- 
rivers, 
scharge 
lowing 


6ir 

are  the  largest  navlgatble  rivers,  and  the  computed 
distance  from  each  other,  with  the  distance  they 
are  said  to   be  navigable.     The  first   is    Rocky 
raver,  or  Riviere  a  la  Roche,  one   hundred  and 
sixty  miles  above  the  Illinois.     This  is  a  large 
river,  but  the  navigation  is  said  to  be  impeded  bv 
rocks  and  rapids.     The  second  is  Mine  river,  or 
Riviere,  a  la  Mine,   two  hundred  and  ten  miits 
above  Rocky   river,  and   navigable    fifty  miles. 
The  third  is  Ouiconsin,  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  further  up,  navigable  two  hundred  miles. 
A  bend  in  this  river,  near  its  head  waters,  passes 
so  near  to  a  bend  in   Fose  river,   which  empties 
into  Green  Bay,   a   branch  of  Lake    Michigan, 
that  the  portage  is  said  to  be  only  one  mile  and 
three  quarters,   forming  another  easy  communi- 
cation  between   the  Mississippi    and    the  lakes. 
I  he  fourth.   Black  river,  one  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  further,   and  navigable  one  hundred  miles. 
The  fifth,  is  the  river  Chippeway,  sixty-five  miles 
above   Black   river,  and  navigable  one  hundred 
miles.     The  sixth,  is  Sotoux  river,  only  fifteen 
miles    further  up,  and   navigable    eighty  miles. 
The  mouth  of  this  river  is   said  to  be  three  hun- 
dred  and  eighty  yards  wide.    The  seventh,  is  the 
Saint  Croix,  further  distant    sixty  miles,   and   is 
said  to  be   navigable  one  hundred    miles.     The 
mouth  of  this  river  is  two  hundred  yards.    From 
the  Saint  Croix  to  Saint  Anthony's  falls,  is  ninety 
miles,   which   is  in  fortv-£ve  decrree»  -f  nnvth 
latitude. 
6* 


I 


Hki 


66 

*vu  oy  numerous  bandt  of  Indinh.  «#•   i-r 
*eient  notions  •   ««.«-  ,        *naians,  of  dif- 

l-een  discovered  of  »  „  "^  ""'  copper  ore  1... 

little  explored     Vl"     °^ """"•)'  ha.  been  very 
*ho  have  V   itd  h  r"  ."■'  °"'''  "'"'«  P'OP"' 


BR 


DESCRIPTION 


OF   THE 


MISSISSIPPI    RIVER. 

This  noble  river  was  made  the  western  boundary 
of  the  United  States,  by  the  definitive  treaty  with 
Oreat  Britain,  in  the  year  1783.     Considering  its 
great  length,   the   prodigious   column   of  water 
rollmgmits  deep  channel,  and  the  quantity  dis- 
charged by  numerous  outlets,  it  must  be  rated 
among  the  largest  rivers  on  the   American  con- 
•nent.     It  has  been  called  the  American  Nile, 
ti-onri  some  resemblance  it  seems  to  bear  to  that 
celebrated  river  in  Egypt.  The  fertilitv  of  Egypt 
IS  well  known  to  be  owing  to  the  periodical  over, 
fl.owmg   of  the   Nile.     From  a  similar  course, 
vast  tracts  of  land  have  been  enriched  bytheouti 
lets  and    overflowing  of  the   Mississippi.     The 
Nile  begms  to  rise  about  the  middle  of  June,  and 
to  subside  in  September.       The   floods   in  the 
Mississippi  begin  about   the  first  of  April,   and 
♦'^•»  water  falls  within  its  banks  hv  the  first  of  Au- 
The  overflowing  is  much  greater  on  the 


the 
gust 


r 


'•■  68 

western,  than  on  the  eastern   side  of  ,h.   ,• 
From  New  Madrid  to  "ointe  r!  !•  "■- 

.or more  than  eight  h.ndrrnS  r.LVaro: 
the  western  bank     wJrh   ♦!,  .  °" 

-a>.-c.s.is  ovX'edreZr  1  "  '"^ 

'andsprrdurrdfj:::  ir/"^""--  '"^^ 

depth  of  from  two  totw  , '  "feet    f""''  """  =* 
considerable  settlement,  for  .h"/  """'''•     ^° 
formed  on  the  ban.  ofthrr     'r     w"  "u  ^ 
-      the  bank  on  the  eastern  .-a     ■  """=''  of 

est  floods,  and  wU  :i       /''",  ''"^^  ""  '''sh- 
provement.     T^  °^  settlements  and  im- 

'y  the  k"  mi  J„r  "'*"="  °f  'he  Nile  are  extolled 
<.ua.itiet^n7;:r~%«'''-''o'esome 

Mississippi,  after  iiltrltt  r  or  beLr'"'  "'""^ 
purified  from  a  muddy  sediment  ^  '"  "^  """^ 
greeable  to  the  taste  Z       „""""'  '••«  "ot  disa- 

been  habituated  "IT  x'  """^  ^^'""'"'^ 
be  possessed  of  melaT'oro^T  '"^  '"'''''°'^''  ♦<• 
some  people  as  al  M       u'^      "'  "P^^inff  on 

cleansfngX  s\i„  ^'    ''"''""^'   »""  g"'""y 
5  me  skm  from  curtaneous  eruotion, 

It  .s  supposed  the  M-ssissippi  takes  lit!'  • 
a  lake   called   White   Bear  L»ke    but   L   K   '." 
waters  appear  nnf  *o  k         i  '  '^*   "<^a<^ 

explored!'  The  m^st  7.      °.  ^"'  """'"^'^ 

from   Indian  Lforral^The?""  '^ '""^''' 
falls  of  Saint  A«ih         ■  """  "^"^  the. 

Blue  riv'r  at  H^^ir    ^''>  "^""^  ^""-s, 

-•  said  to  be ;»":  r  r  .rr^"y  «>-. 

^  ■ —  ""^'^  "ic  iaiia  lor  three 


69 

hundred  miles.     These  falls  were  first  visited  by 
Father  Louis   Hennipin,    a   French   Missionary, 
about  the  year  1680,  who  wa^  the  first  European 
ever  seen  by  the  natives,  and  who  gave  them  the 
name    of  Saint   Anthony's  falls.     The  country 
adjacent  approaches  to  a  plain,  with  some  swell- 
ing hills.     At  the  falls  the  river  is   two  hundred 
and    fifty  yards    wide,    and    the    perpendicular 
descent  of  the  water  about  thirty  feet.     Near  the 
falls  the  prospect  is  said  to  be  highly  picturesque 
and  delightful.     This  widely  expanded  sheet  of 
water  may  be  seen  several  miles  below,    where 
the  eye  of  the  beholder  is  struck  with  pleasing 
admiration,  and  views,  with  rapture,  this  roman- 
tic scene.     At  these  falls  a  large  factory  is  estab- 
lished, where  many  of  the  western  bands  of  In- 
dians bring  their  furs  and  peltry,  to  exchange  for 
various  kinds  of  merchandise. 

About  ten  miles  below  the  falls  enters  the  large 
river  Saint  Peters,   from   the  westward.      The 
mouth  of  this  river  is  one  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  the  current  deep.     It  is  said  that  it  holds  its 
depth  and   width  very  nearly  for  two   hundred 
miles.      Further  up,  several  branches  come  in  ; 
the  head  waters  of  some  of  which  are  said  to  take 
their  rise   near  the  streams  which  run  into  the 
Missouri.     On   this   river  and  its  branches  are 
severd  trading  posts,  where  Indians  who  reside 
on  the  Missouri  frequently  resort  for  commerce. 
At  a  small  distance  above  the  mouth  of  the 
river  Chippeway,  is  ^  lake,  about  twenty  miles  in 


ro 

Jngth  and  six  miles  in  breadth,  called  lake  Pepin, 
ihe  Mississippi  passes  through  this  lake    L 
although  the  French  have  denolina  ed   .    'lake 

of       Xtr  V"^""  of-extended  „£ 
me  river.     The  water  in  some  parts  of  it  i^ 

Below  the  lake,  the  river  glides  with  a  »,n.i 
current,  having  alternately  hi  Jh  la^dlon  one'  .d^ 
and  extended  meadows  on  the  other      So"  % 
the  precipices  fronting  the  river   ar' high   a„d 
teep,   ascending  lifce  pyramid.,'a„d  exhibiti"' 
the  appearance  of  ancient  towers      n,..    ^- 

ces,  with  the  view  of  larce  rJrh  i,,.o;.- 

in.  far  back  towards  JrnfrrrS 

them,  and  watered  with  a  number  of  small  lake! 
Between  .he  Saint  Peters  and  Missour  r  vers 
-™any  streams  of  considerable  magnitude   e„t"; 
the  Mississippi  from  the  westward.     The  larir  s 

river  tSTo"^  -".h  of  the  Illinois.     On  this 
river  the  S,oux,and  some  other  bands  of  Indians 
frequently  descend  with   their  furs  and  i       .    ' 
matlrot      "vu  **""  skuns  lor 

•naiket.     The  current  of  the  Mississippi  contin- 

Mir:;::;  ;\r:.^r:; -■■■'-- 

""^"'"'^  "*«'-"  uiore  i«pid,  and 


71 


remarkably  cold  and  muddy.  At  the  common 
stage  of  the  waters,  in  these  two  s  eai.s,  the 
Missouri  is  supposed  to  be  the  largest  river. 
This  junction  is  formed  twenty- five  miles  below 
the  Illinois,  and  two  hundred  and  thirty  miles 
above  the  Ohio. 

The    land   on  the  banVs  of  the  Missouri  are 
rich,  and  where  they  are  well  cultivated,  exceed- 
ingly  productive.      There   ar.    two   settlements, 
^amt  Charles  and  Saint  Andrew,  principally  in- 
habited by  emigrants   from  Kentucky.      Other 
small  settlements  have  commenced  further  up  the 
river.    The  most  distant  settlement  of  white  peo- 
ple IS  Saint  John's,  which   is  one  hundred  miles 
from  Its  mouth.     The  great  extent  of  this  river 
was  unknown  until  it  was  explored  by  Captain 
Lewis,  and  Captain  Clark.     Traders  had  before 
ascended  two  thousand  miles,  but  Captain  Lewis 
computes  the   distance   from   the   mouth    to  the 
great  falls,  to  be  two  thousand  five  hundred  and 
seventy-five   miles.     About  one   hundred  miles 
above  Saint  John's,  the  river  becomes  broad,beinK 
c-ight  hundred  and  seventy-five  yards  wide,  where 
the  Osage  nver  enters;  but  about  fifty  miles  fur- 
ther  up  ,t  narrows  again  to  about  three   hundred 
yards.     The  Osage  comes  in  from  the  south,  and 
IS  one  hundred  and  ninety-seven   yards  wide   at 
ats  mouth.     The    Osage  Indians   reside  on   this 
nver,    from  whom  it  takes  its  name,  about  two 
hundred  miles  from  its  mouth.     Here  the  evt.n- 
s.ve  prairies  commence,  wholly  destitute  of  trees, 


I 


I 


ra 

but  covered  with  tall  grass,  and  continue,  ,vi,h 
little  interruption,  far  towards  the  borders  of  New 
Mexico,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

Fifteen  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri, 
IS  Samt  Louis,   delightfully  situated  on  elevated 
ground,  upon  .he  bank  of  the  Mississippi.    It  is 
considered  to  be  the  most  healthy  and  pleasant 
situation  known  in  this  part  of  the  country.    The 
settlement   of  this  village  was  began  by  a  few 
French  people,  who  came  over  from  the  east  side 
of  the  river  about  the  year  176s.    It  became  the 
residence  of  the  Spanish  Commandant,  and  of 
the  principal   Indian   traders.     The  trade  of  the 
Indians  on  the  Missouri,  part  of  the  Mississippi, 
and   Illinois,  was  chiefly  drawn  to  this  village. 
Before  the  purchase  of  Louisiana  by  the  United 
States,    ,t   contained   one  hundred   and  twenty 
houses,  mostly  built  of  stone,  but  large  and  com- 
modious dwellings.      It  contained   about  eight 
hundred  inhabitants,  who  were   mostly  Frencr. 
bince  this  purchase  was  made,  numbers  have  em- 
igrated to  this  village  from  different  parts  of  the 
United  States.     There  are  now  more  than  two 
hundred  houses,  a  post  office^  ,'d  a  printing  office 
issuing    a   Weekly  Ga^vtte.      There   are  many 
mercantile  stores,  and  a  flourishing  trade  in  furs 
and  peltry.   It  i,  made  the  seat  of  territorial  gov- 
ernment for  Upper  Louisiana. 

Saint  Genevieve,  or  Mis.ire  is  sixtv-four  miles 
lower  down,  on  the  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  and 


nearly  opposite  the  vHlao-^  o*"  i^^-^- 


1 i.r-  ..    - 

~-USnici»         It    IS   U 


73 

considerable  village,  containing  more  than  twe 
hundred  houses.    In  the  year  1773,  this  and  Saint 
J.OUIS  were  the  only  villages  on  the  western  side 
of  the  nver.  At  a  short  distance  below  is  a  small 
settlement,  called  the  Saline,  where  large  quanti- 
ties  of  salt     re  made,  and  sold  at  the  works  for 
about  one  dollar  per  bushel.     Not  far  from  Saint 
Genevieve,  in  a  western  direction,  a  large  number 
of  lead  furnaces  are   worked,  producing  great 
quantities  of  lead,  where  it  may  be  purchased  at 
three  or  four  cents  per  pound.     In  various  parts 
of  a  large  tract  of  country  south  of  the  Missouri 
numerous  lead  mines  are  to  be  found.     Many  of 
them  are  not  more  than  two  or  three  feet  below 
the  surface,  and  may  be  worked  with  great  ease. 
Were  the   inhabitants  sufficiently  numerous   to 
work  the  mines,  it  is  supposed  a  quantity  of  lead 
might  be  obtained  from  the  ore,  equal  to  the  sup. 
ply  of  all  Europe.  , 

The^  principal  mines  which  have  yet  been 
worked,  are  near  the  head  waters  and  branches  of 
the  nver  Marameg.  This  river  is  of  considera- 
ble s,ze;  it  enters  the  Mississippi  about  twent^ 
mdes  below  Saint  Louis  ;  it  comes  in  nearly  in 
the  direction  of  the  Missouri ;  and  its  widely 
extended  branches  reach  far  back  into  the  country^ 
About  forty  miles  from  Saint  Genevieve,  on  a 
branch  of  the  Marameg,  is  Barton's  mine,  discov- 
ered  by  Francis  Barton,  who  obtained  a  grant  of 

the  land,  and  becran  to  wort  ♦!.«  «.^ ,     . 

• '^"^'  "iv;  iic«riv  lorcv 

years  ago.     It  is  now  i„  ,he  possession  of  a  Mr. 


\ 


Au.,i„,  who  has  erected  .  good  smelting  furnace 
Th»  ore  «  no,  of  the  richest  kind,  but  a  Jeater 
quantity  has  beftu  ,   .^..  d  h,,-,  ,1,.    •        ^^"" 
Darf  „f  .u  *'*' '""'  ">  any  otheif 

part  oJ  the  country,  irom  which  .1,.  / 

derived  great  orofit.     Tk  """^  '"'» 

th.  „,„.     I  •     ^  ^^'  °"  '»  taken  out  of 

«h«  ground  r,  an  open  prairie  which  is  elevated 

Snrtf  acrer^r   "  "^  °^"  «""<' 
two  fee.  of  the  ""rfac?  "  "  ^°'""'  "'""'" 

which  it  lies  in  uLo    V"  "  """  °''^''''''   '" 

/^^^JKt.     Und^S-ir;— SS 
broken  up  with  a  pick-axe    n«^     u  ^ 

the  air  rl.A'i        P'^"^^*^'  and  when  exposed  to 
^ne  air,  readily  crumbles  to  fine  sand      Tk 

a  strata  of  r.7  !  ''^''^  '^^  '^"^  ''^ck  i« 

nn^      ;°  **^'^>  substance ;  some  portion  of  arsenic 

tne  ore.     Some  of  th.s  ore  will  yield  from  sixtv 
to  seventy-five  per  cent.  .  ^ 

About  five  miles  from  Bartnn'«   ; 
direction,    is    an  old  I       '   "  ^"  ^^'*^™ 


I 


»ng  furnace. 
»t  a  greater 
n  any  other 

owner  has 
ten   out  of 
is  elevated 
)ed  of  the 
over  some 
ind  within 
gravel,   in 
ty  pounds 
ck,  easily 
xposed  to 

The  ore 
to  that  in 
id  rock  if 

Beneath 
;n  to  two 
utside  of 
or  silver 
f  arsenic 
itimony, 
ed   with 
m  sixty 

eastern 
hy  the 
in  this 
Jcted  a 
;c[  un- 
hfam- 


f5 

ilies  made  a  settlement  near  it.     On  opening  the 
mine  tht  y  found  a  rich  ore  in  great  plenty.     But 
the  Fret.ch  furnaces  were  very  badly  constructed. 
They  were  formed  somewhat  similar  to  a  lime 
kiln,  at  the  bottom  of  which  they  placed  a  flooring 
of  large  logs,   and  set  up  a  tier  of  smaller  ones  , 
around  the  sides  of  the  furnace,  within  which  they 
put  a  large  quantity  of  ore.  A  fire  was  then  made, 
and  continued  until  the  mineral  was  smelted,  and 
run  oiFinto  troughs  made  to  receive  it ;  but  much 
of  the  metal  was  burnt  up,  or  lost  in  the  ashes. 
In  this  manner  each  family  smelted  their  own 
mineral,  until  Mr.  Austin  erected   his  furnace. 
Since  that  time,  they  find  it  more  advantageous 
to  sell   ther  ore  to  him.     It  it  conjectured  that 
the  whole  distance  between  the  old  mine  and  Bar- 
ton's is  one  continued  bed  of  lead  ore. 

The  time  of  working  the  mines  is  from  August 
to  December.  After  the  harvests  are  over,  the 
inhabitants  of  S^int  Genevieve  and  other  settle- 
ments  on  the  Mississippi  resort  to  the  mines. 
The  rich  employ  their  negroes,  and  the  poor  peo- 
ple work  for  themselves  ;  depending  on  the  lead 
they  procure,  to  furnish  necessary  articles  for  their 
families.  The  lead  is  estimated  equal  to  cash 
for  whatever  they  wish  to  purchase. 

Another  mine,  called  Ranalt's  mine,  situated 
•on  a  creek  of  the  same  name  about  six  miles 
north  of  Barton's,  is  said  to  contain  very  rich 
ore^  but  has  been  worked  only  a  short  time. 


•^  American.  XeT'll'"?'"''''^''''"™''" 

78  .•  but  .hci^  .ir":^;  r;L:rer  """•■ 

«  from  .h.m  ,„d  h»„     •  '  '"^  '"'*'«  "<>'«'' 

«  -r.i„  JCltr'""  """'  ""'•  "-8- 

ore  ha.  been  folnd  „"c.r  .hrf  r*""""'"^  °'  ""* 
,     »nc..  indie...  a  gr"at  e«/"     r'T"  "PP""'- 

»iBe.     The  ore  U  f^.,  j  •     ,  '"**»  '*  Joe  » 

.ra.  hund,;d  ;ou':d?";.ix  'T  '•""*' »'  •- 

•olid,  but  ha.  noVL     *    •  T^  ""y  P"«  "nd 
.".»"  di.t..Ke  fro  '  .h     •  "J"'*"  ""^''''-     At  a 

--.i.^/tutimaSr^'''''^'''' 
"inc.  have  been  di.cov  " d  "n  the  h""::'  "'*"" 

«bov.  Ba  j:.:?f  X7. : ::  z '""""'  ■""« 

I^a  Motte',  mine  is  on  2  "  ^"  '"""^■'• 

F^neis.  about  tbiirestrfr^sf^^'- 
tivicvc.     It  wa.»  fi;o.l         .      /*^* ''^on^  St.  Gen- 

e<i  about  thr;  r  .T  Th  "'*"  '^ "  *°-'=- 

-lid,  disposed'in  r4u.a;  vcS'ortr""  "  "-"' 
'««  in  thickness.     FheotZ  I  °'  '^"'" 

;..ened.  and  a  pan  or.hl''  ::;;'  t'  '"" 
fo«nd  about  fou.  or  five  fee,  atVsi? 


rr 

and  descend  in  an  oblique  dV'^cti'.n,  at  an  angle 
of  about  45  degrees.     Thc^   i. .  m  low,  flat  land, 
and  in  a  very  unhealthy  f    M,i  ^;  nor  can  the 
miners  go  down  vtry  dee>;  bej.. .  they  will  be  in- 
terrupted by  water.     The  - V    ril  i»  very  differ- 
ent  in    its  appearance   from  any  other  that  has 
been  found  in  this  part  of  the  country.     It  it  of 
a  fine,  steel  grain,  and  contains  a  considerable 
quantity  of  silver.     In  smelting  of  it,  a  very  dif- 
ferent process  is  necessary  from  that  which  the 
French  people  have  employed,  in  the  other  minet. 
The  want  of  skilful  workmen,  and  differently  con- 
structed furnaces,  has  greatly  retarded  the  work- 
ing of  this  mineral.     The  method  these  people 
have  pursued,  has  been  to  give  the  ore  repeated 
heatings,  by  laying  it  on  piles  of  logs,  before  it  is 
prepared  for  smelting,    by   which  great  loss  is 
sustained.     They  rarely  get  more  than  thirty  or 
thirty-five  per  cent.  ,*.,  . 

There  is  also  found,  at  this  mine,  a  different 
kmd  of  ore  in  beds.     It  is  called,  by  the  miners, 
gravel  mineral,  being  found  intermixed  with  the 
soil,  in  small  particles,   from  the  size  of  a  pin's 
head  to   that  of  a   hickory  nut.      After   being 
washed,  it  is  put  into  a  furnace,  and  smelted  into 
•lag,  and  then  placed  in  another  furnace,  not  unlike 
a  miller's  hopper,  where  a  partial  fluxion  is  pro- 
duced.    It  is  said  this  kind  of  ore,  in  the  hands 
of  experienced  workmen,  with  a  proper  furnace, ' 
would  yield  large  profits. 

7» 


rs 


Barton's  mine,  since  the  improvements  made 
by  Mr.  Austin,  is  calculated  lo  produce  lead  to 
the  amount  of  ttventy  thousand  dollars  per  annum. 
As  the  mineral  is  so  easily  obtained,  the  other 
mines,  under  proper  management,  might,  doubt- 
less, be  rendered  exceedingly  profitable. 

On  the  borders  of  the  Mississippi,  from  Saint 
Genevieve  to  Cape  Girardeau,  there  are  scattered 
settlements  and  some  considerable  villages  j  but 
from  the  Cape  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  there 
are  very  few  setders. 

The  face  of  the  country  in   Upper  Louisiana 
is  someM^hat  broken,  but  the  soil  is  generally  fer- 
tile.    *^It  is  elevated    and    healthy,  and    well 
watered,   with  a  variety  of  large  rapjd  streams, 
calculated  for  mills  and  other  water  works.  From 
Cape  Girardeau,  above  the  mouth  of  the   Ohio, 
to  the  M wsouri,  the  land  contiguous  to  the  river 
is  generally  much  higher  than  on  the  east  side, 
and    in  many   places  very  rocky  on    the  shore. 
Some  of  the  heights  exhibit  a  scene  truly  pictur- 
esque.    They  rise   to  a  height  of  at  least'  three 
hundred  feet,  faced  with  a,  perpendicular  lime  and 
free  stone,  carved  into  various  shapes  and  figures 
by  the  hand  of  nature,  and  aflPord  the  appearance 
of  a  multitude  of  antique  towers.     From  the  tops 
of  these  elevations,  the  land  gradually  slopes  back 
from  the  river,  without  gravel  or  rock,  and  is 
covered  with   valuable   timber.     It  may  be  said 
with  truth,  that,  for  fertility  of  soil,  no  part  of  the 
world   exceeds  ihe  borders  of  the    Mississippi ; 


f^:x^'' 


to 

the  land  yields  an  abundance  of  all  the  necessa- 
ries of  life,  and  almost  spont«.:eously  ;  very  little 
labour  being  required  in  the  cultivation  of  the 
earth.  That  part  of  Upper  Louisiana,  which 
borders  on  North  Mexico,  is  one  immense  prai- 
rie J  it  prodUes  nothing  but  grass  j  it  is  filled  with 
buffaloe,  deer,  and  other  kinds  of  game  ;  the  land 
is  represented  as  too  rich  for  the  growth  of  forest 
trees.  It  is  pretended  that  upper  Louisiana  con- 
tains in  its  bowels  many  silver  and  copper  mines, 
and  various  specimens  of  both  are  exhibited. 
Sev  1  trials  have  been  made  to  ascertain  the 
fact;  but  the  want  of  skill  in  the  artists  has  hith- 
erto left  the  business  undecided."* 

The  Mississippi,  from  the  junction  of  the 
Missouri,  has  a  strong  current,  which  cannot  be 
stemmed  by  the  force  of  wind  on  sails,  without 
the  aid  of  oars.  The  width  of  the  river  is  about 
one  mile  and  a  half,  and  the  water  always  thick 
and  muddy,  A  depth  of  fifteen  feet  of  water 
can  be  carried  down,  in  low  stages  of  the  river  ^ 
but  immediatf '/ bUo' '  the  Ohio  it  deepens  to 
twentyfive  feet,  and  still  increases  to  sixty  feet. 

These  waters  are  well  replenished  with  fish  of 
different  kinds.  The  largest  are  the  cat  fish,  the 
spatula  fish,  and  sturgeon.  The  cat  have  been 
taken  weighing  more  than  one  hundred  pounds, 
and  the  spatula,  of  fifty  pounds  weight.  The 
smaller  fish  are  tlw  pike,  buffaloe,  perch,   trout, 

*  Appendix.— Ohio  Navigator,  pagK:  138. 


H 


h\ 


I 


9& 

r*f,  mullet,  «nd  carp.      It    mny,  however,  be 
doubts!  whether  the  carp  be  of  the  .nme  species 
of  those  caught  in  Europe.     It  has  been  said  that 
h<'rring  have  been  taken  in  these  waters.     AUi- 
g^uors  have  not  been  observed    higher  up   than 
the  Arkansas  river.     A   peculiar  kind  of  fresh 
water  turtle  abounds   in  these   rivers.     The  feet 
are  webbed,  and  the  upper  shell  remarkably  soft. 
They  arc  from  ten  to  fifteen  pounds  ivcight,  and 
considered  very  delicious. 

Fowl,  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  are  to  bt  seen 
here  in   great  abundance  ;    such  as  swan,  crane 
heron,  g^ese,  ducks,  and  brant.     The  pelican  arJ 
sometimes  seen,  but  far  d6wn  the  river,  are  very 
numerous.     The  size  and  shape  of  this  singular 
bird  resembles  the   «wan,  excepting  in  its   mon^ 
atrous  pouch  which  is  placed  under  its  neck  and 
bill.     It  seems  to  be  an  appendage  which  nature 
has  provided  for  carrying  and  preserving  its  food 
ior  Its  own  support  and  that  of  its  young.     The 
pouch  of  a  pelican  killed  by  Captain  Lewis,  when 
ascendmg  the   Missouri,  was  found  to  hold  five 
gallons  of  water.     They  ^e  frequently  prepared 
and  used  for  bags  and  other  purposes. 

The  forest  trees,  in  Upper  Louisiana,  are  gen. 
crally  similar  to  those  in  the  State  of  Ohio  and 
Indiana  Territory.  Black  and  white  mulberry  h 
found  here  in  much  greater  plenty,  especially  on 
the  Missouri.  The  cotton  wood  tree  grows  in 
great  abundance,  on  the  borders  of  these  riv- 
ers.     It  has  been  supposed  to  be  the  same  as  the 

* 


81 

lombardy  poplar,  but  it  is  probably  a  different 
«pecic8.  It  differs,  at  least,  in  f'  v«ry  lar^ 
quantity  of  volatile,  capillary  papp,  j  attached  to 
the  seeds.  When  the  seed  vessels  open,  and  the 
seeds  come  out,  it  almost  fills  the  air,  and,  as  it 
descends,  covers  the  bushes  and  ground,  like  « 
fall  of  light  snow.  Its  appearance  very  nearly 
resembles  cotton  wool,  which  has  doubtless  oc- 
casioned  its  trivial  name. 

The  pecan,  or  Illinois  hickery,  grow  plenty  on 
the  Mississippi.  In  the  swamps  and  lowest 
flooded  land,  the  cypress  of  a  large  size  is  the 
pnncipal  growth.  Where  the  land  is  less  inun- 
dated the  swamp  and  live  oak  abound,  which  is 
highest  estimated  for  ship  building.  The  points 
at  the  bends  of  the  river,  and  ends  of  islands,  are 
chiefly  covered  with  thickets  of  small  willows. 

At  the  confluence  of  the  Ohio  with  the  M is- 
sissinpi,  its  width  is  very  little  increased,  and 
continues  generally  about  a  mile  and  a  half,  as 
far  as  the  Natchez,  where  it  begins  to  prow  some- 
what broader.  The  princip.1  rivers  which  dis- 
charge their  waters  into  the  Mississippi,  are  the 
Samt  Francis,  White,  ,\rkan.n8,  and  Red  river, 
on  the  western  side,  and  or  ±?  eastern,  the  Wolf 
and  the  Yazoo  riven:. 

Immediately  Cii  r  ji  5fing  c  ut  of  the  Ohio  into 
the  Mississippi,  !*)«  cum  nt  h  very  sensibly  ac 
celerated,  but  is  not  •><  strong  as  between  the 
Ohio  and  t!ie  Missouri.  It  is  estimated  to  run 
U  the  rate   of  three  and  »  half  to  four  miles  m 


%  "%), 


m  i 


83 
hour ;  and  when  the  water  i,  high  is  somewhat 

IndT     ,     H*"^""'"  — di„«,,  serpemine 
and  the  island,  numerous.     Some  of  the  bends 

m  Its  course  down  to  the  line  of  demarkation,  are 
sudden  and  large ,  but  between   that   line   and 

romte    Coupee,  there  are  several  of  prodigious 
magnitude.  '        *• 

timtTT'-"^  '^"  Mississippi,  thereisat  all 

121  r    ;'"'  ''"P"'  °^  '*'""•  *»"  ■"-"V  sand 

bar    make  off  mto  the  river.     Frequent  strong 

eddies,  and  many  large  current,  of  water,  sitting 

,  out  of  the  river,  when  the  water  is  high,  with 

8~at  rapidity,  require  the  constant  and  careful 

attention  of  the  navigator.     The   navigation   i, 

a  .0,  impeded  and  endangered,  by  what  are  called 

plamers.     Those  are  large  bodies  of  trees,  with 

their  roots  fast  at  the  bottom  of  the  river,  and 

stumps  but  just  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 

Another  impediment  is  called  sawyers,  which  are 

bodies  of  trees  standing  in  a  sloping  manner,  and 

A  third  inconvenience   i,  small  wooden  islands, 
composed  of  drift  wood,  which,  by  some  means 
has   been  arrested,  and  immoveably  fixed   to  the 
bottom;  not  rising  much  above  the  water,  are  to 
be  seen  only  at  a  short  distance. 

Soon  after  entering  the  Mississippi  from  the 
Ohio  the  whole  prospect  is  so  much  changed,  ..a 
to  exhibit  the  appearance  of  a  different  countr,- ; 
the  climate  becomes  miid  and  soft ;  and  the  cold 
ot  winter  seems  to  have  produced  very  little  effect 


83 

on  the  state  of  vegetation.  The  sameness  of  view 
along  the  banks  of  the  river,  as  far  down  as  Pointe 
Coupee,  a  distance  of  nine  hundred  miles,  i. 
scarcely  interrupted,  excepting  by  a  few  settle- 
rnents  and  some  high  bluffs,  on  the  eastern  side. 

it  ,  .'P''^*"  *"  ""^  ""^  continued  level, 
clothed  w,th  large  timber,  and  an  under  growth 
ol  cane  brakes,  and  small  shrubs. 

Opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  i,  a  small  set- 
t  ement  consisting  principally  of  men  whose  em- 
ployment  .shunting.  Five  miles  below,  on  the 
east  s.de,  .s  fort  Jefferson,  — 'ch  is  evacuated. 

V      I,"',  '""'•  ''"''•*  '  ''""her  down, 

IS  New  Madr  d.     This  set         .-.  .     . 

r„i  r-  ,,        inisset.     ..ent  was  made  by 

Col.  George  Morgan,  of  New  Jersey,  about  the 
year  1790.  It  is  pleasantly  situated,  on  a  ,rich 
-. ,  and  was  intended  for  a  ,„ge  town.  After 
bu.Id.ng  a  small  number  of  houses,  the  peol 
became  extremely  sickly,  and  no  further  progress 
«as  made  .n  the  settlement.  On  the  same  side 
th.rty.three  miles  below,  in  a  bend  of  the  r  ^e  ' 
;s  a  settlement,  two  miles  long,  called  Little  Pra-' 

i^oiucSr"" '"''''"'' '="-''-«'^-'>-« 
The  first  high  lands  to  be  seen  on  the  river  are 
the Ch.ckas,w  bluffs,  on  .ae  .astern  side  These 
bluffs  are  four  in  number,  :he  first  of  whi.!, 
one  hundred  and  seven.;.six  tlf  b!  f  Z 
Oh.o,  and  continue,  about  a  mile  on  the  river 
The  second  are  deven  miles  below  the  fir,t  the 
«h.rd  twentyone  mije.  below  the  sec  ^V  and 


H 

extend  ahout  three  quarters  of  a  mil-.     Pa„i„„ 
these  bluffs,  the  river  is  extremely  croolced.  They 
rise  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
the  surface  of  the  water.     The  fourth  are  thirtv- 
three  mile,  below  the  third,  and  just  above  them 
Wolf  nver  enters  from  the  eastward.  The  mouth 
of  this  r.ver  is  not  large,  and  contiguous  to  it  i, 
the  site  of    fort    Pike.     These   bluffs  continue 
about  two  miles.     On  the  lower  extremity  is  fort 
Pickermg.   i„  an  eligible  and  communding  situa- 
t.on,   overlooking    the   whole,  of  this   elevated 
ground.     When  this  fort  was  built,  fort  Pike  was 
evacuated.     It  is  a  Captain's  command,  who  ha, 
a   detachment  stationed  at  Post  Ozark   on  the 
Arkans™  river.     This  fort  is  in  the  Mississippi 
Territory,  where  the  United  States  keep  a  Factor. 
Here  ,s  a  small  settlement  of  whites  and  Indians; 
but  the  most  of  these  people    are  the  half  breed, 
which  IS  a  mixture  of  both  of  them. 
_  On  the  western    side,   about  sixty-five   miles 
further  down,  comes  in  the  river  Saint  Francis. 
Its  mouth  IS  about  two  hundred  vards  wide ;  the 
current  IS  g.„tle  ,  and  is  pavigaOle  for  a  consid- 
erable  distance.     The  head  waters  of  this  river 
are  said   to  be  not  far  distant  from  Saint  Gen- 
evieve,   m  a  south    westerly  direction.     At  the 
entrance  of  the  river,  stood  Kappa,   Old   Fort, 
b^-.'tbythe   French,  principally  for  a  magazine 
of  stores  and  provisions,  during  their  wars  with 
tne  Chickasaw  Indians. 


8jr 

Six  miles  bf'low  the  Smnt  Francis,  is  a  beauti- 
tul  natural  meadow,  called  the  Big  Prairie.  At 
a  omaU  distance  from  the  river,  i«  this  pra«ie, 
18  a  fine  lake,  five  miles  long,  and  three  wide  ;  it 
abounds  wif  i  swan  j  and  discharges  its  water  into 
the  nver,  by  a  lai-ge  bayau. 

About  eigfaty.five  miles  below,  enters  White 
nver  on  the  same  side  ;  and  about  twenty  miles 
fairther,  comes  in  the   Arkansas,  which  is  much 
larger  than  White  river;  and  admits  of  naviga- 
tion  to  a  great  distance.     A  communication  is 
made  between  these  rivers  by  an  inland  channel, 
which  goes  out  of  White  river  about  three  miles 
above  its  mouth,   and  about  twenty  miles  up  the 
Arkansas,  connecting  the  waters  of  the  two  rivers, 
i  he  distance  of  the  Post  and  Village  of  Ozark 
on  the  Arkansas,  is  fifty  miles   from  the  mouth 
of  that  r,ver;  but  by  passing  up  White  river,  and 
through  the  channel,  it  is  reduced  to  about  thirty 
miles.     On  the  upper  and  head   waters  of  the 
Arkansas   are  a  large  number  of  Indian  villages, 
i  wo  hundred  and  ten  miles  below  the  Arkan 
sas,  the  Yaaoo  river  enters  on  the  eastern  side, 
which  takes   its  rise   in   Georgia.     It   comest 
WKh  a  gentle  current,  and  is  nearly  three  hundred 
yards  wide.  It  abounds  with  swan,  geese,  ducks 
and  other  water  fowl.     On  the  borders  of    h  J 

StTe  o7r  "?'^'  'r'  ^^"'^'  P"^^^-^d  of  the 
5>tate  of  Georgia,  and  sold  to  New  England  spec- 
ulators,  called  the  Yazoo  company.^  tX 
miles  further  down  are  Walnut  hills ,-  'on  thllS 


II  aj 


86 
«t  par.  of  which,  fort  H..ry  wa,  built,  but  has 

tz^trT"'^  ''""'^  Walnut  hii'.,,!;: 

twenty-four  m,Ie»,  commence,  the  Palmi^  ,,, 
.lement,  on  the  same  aide.  Thia  i,  a  veThand 
some  .ettlement ;  it  contain,  a  large  number  of 
house, ;  extends  eight  mile,  on  the  river  .and  i, 
m  a  aour.,hmg  ,ta,e.  The  land  i,  very  r  ch  and 
well  .mproved  in  the  culture  of  cottonf  Funher 
down  about  thirty  miles,  i,  ,he  famou,  s^arof 

tarm    which   i,  under  excellent  culture.     He  i, 
much  respected  for   hi,  hospitality  and  poli"^e 
topa,seng.r,  when  they  call  upon  him. 

tw^,'  "-f  "l^^^''"  '»  ^t-^ot  one  hundred  and 
wenty  rndes  below  the  Walnut  hills.     It  u  si.u- 

recederb,?/"^""'^  ''''''"^  '''"''='  "h-h 
descent.  Frontmg  the  river,  the  bluff  i,  nearly 
perpendicular,  and  two  hundred  feet  in  hei^hf 

fT  K,'  r^"""  "^  ""^  "««'•     B^'ween  the  bTse 
of  the  b  uff  and  the  river,  i,  a  space  which  is  evd 

>ag,  and  „  spread  over  with  dwellinEs    trading 
house,  and  shop,.    From  this  lit.le  vZ^e     S 

te  bir  v: '"''''"' '"'"'  '^  "•«  -"™i°»f 

the  ed^"  f    r"^  "  ''""'  "  '<""*  •»'«»»«  from 
the  edge  of  the  precipice,    leaving  a  ,pacefora 

hand  ome  common.     It  contain,  more  than  three 

hundred  houses    mostly  frame,   and  one  story 

h.gh.     Some  of  those  more  recently  erected  are 


er 

two  8tory,  and  ia  a  handsome  style.     The  houses 
generally  are   commodiously  constructed  for  the 
transacting  business,  and  the  free  admission  of 
air  m  the   hot  season.     The  prospect  from  ths 
city  IS  delightful ;  commanding  an  extensive  view 
of  the  river  in  both  directions.     There  are  two 
pnntmg  offices,  issuing  weekly  papers  j    a  post 
office,  receiving  a  mail  once  a  week  j  several  mer- 
cantde  houses,   and   a  Urge  number  of  smaller 
stores  and  shops.    Great  quantities  of  cotton,  in- 
digo, tobacco,  and  other  commodities,  are  annu- 
ally  shipped  from  this  city,  where  the  accumula- 
tion of  wealth  is   pursued  with   industry   and 
ardour.     It  i,  a  port  of  entry,  and  ship,  of  four 
hundred  tons  can  come  up  from  Orleans,  which 
w  about  three  hundred  miles,  without  any  other 
obstruction  than  the  strength  of  the  current. 

The  land  in  the  district  of  Natche.  is  generally 
rich  and  very  productive.  It  is  elevated  ground, 
extending  about  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  on 
the  Mississippi,  and  from  twenty  to  thirty  mile, 
back  from  the  river.  Some  parts  of  it  are  broken, 
by  hills,  which  favours  the  raising  of  horses,  nea 
cattle,  sheep,  and  swine.  In  the  woods  and 
swamp,  ,h  ,h,i,  ,i^i„g  ^^^ 

hairy  than  in  the  country  further  north.  Fre- 
quent  changes  in  the  state  of  the  weather  .ire  ex- 
perienced in  ,he  winter,  but  is  rarely  excessive 
not  m  the  summer. 


•8 

Cotton  i,  the  ,tap!e  commoaity,  and  i,  raised 
."great  ^rfcc.ion  ;  it  i,  p,a„.ed  t'he  last  o/f1' 

ZZ'  T    ^^'""'"^  "'  *^»"''-     "f ''<'-  "bo  have 
Wge  p.nnta..on,   derive   great  profi,,.  and  are 

Zt:,Z      -^    ■  "T"  '^  «='"■»»»»'«  handsome 

the  8,o,«h  of  the  sugar  cane.     Some  sugar  ha, 

cZ "; ' ,"'  '^'•: ''""" "'  ■=""-« "-  -^-- 

to^",  .!  ".'  *'"""•  ^""^  "  P'od-^ed  with 

ground  but  wheat  doe.  not  succeed.  Indi-o. 
Apple,  «.d.he,rie,  appear  not  tr  be  adapted  to 
y«U  the^  Iruu  ,„  pWnty.  5^,,^  ^„^  • 

ilr'riv'rr'"*""^'*'--^'"-^'^ 

Better  *p''  '"'if  ''''"''  *'="^"  ««  Loft"*' 
Height,.     Fort  Adam,  i,  on  the  ,ide  of  thcK 

the  .umm,.  „  a  strong  block  house,  which  over- 
looks  the  fort  and  surrounding  country.    Acll 

re;errrr''"'''''''>^^°--^'o- 

c^ntoVr  /    ^"''""8""  ^""S^'  i^a  handsome 
On  the    an  r '.?"""'"  '"  '""^  "^""^'^^  ■»"• 

Four  miles  below  Port  Adams,  is  the  line  of 
and  the  Span.sh  government.  Prior  to  .be 


•0 

purchase  of  Louisiana,  this  line  was  <!.e  bounJary 
of  the  United  State.,  on  the  south. 

At  a  small  distance  below  the  line,  the  river 
turns  short  and  forms  a  large  bend  to   he  west- 
ward.   At  »he  extremity  of  this  curve,  Hed  river 
enters  the  Mississippi,  on  the  west  side.     This 
river  is  large,  and  extends  far  into   the  country 
.n  a  northwesterly  direction.     On  the  banks  and 
vcmity  of  this  river  are  the  -hriving  and  popu- 
lous settlement  of  Rapide,  A     velles,  and  Natch- 
itoches.   This  river  is  used     ,  ,  .mmunicate  witH 
he  frontiers  of  New  Mexico.     Three  miles  be- 
low  Red  river,  on  this  bend,  the  bayau  Chaffalio 
runs  out    with  a  great  rapidity,  and   is  the  first 
arge   river   which  leaves  the   Mississippi,  and 
{alls  by  a  separate  channel    ,to  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
.co.     Although    there   is   a   sufficient  depth    of 
water  the  navigation  is  prevented  by  a  prodigious 
quantity  of  drift  wood,  which  has  formed  a  loat! 
"Jg  bridge  across  it,  of  several  miles  in  length. 
This  bridge,  m  some  places,  is  said  to  be  so  com- 
pact and  firm,  that  horses  and  c.ttle  are  driven 
over  „.     These  obstructions  are  constantly  accu- 
mulating by  the  trees  and  rubbish  which  ««  pass- 
ing mto  this  stream  from  the  Mississippi. 

rut'^'"' "'""'  "  ""'""^d  below  the  bayau 
Chaffalio,  until  it  forms  a  semicircle;  the  ri'^er 

whe"retl'  T  "'^'°«•''^-d  »ome  distance, 
where  it  winds  round  to  the  eastward  and  north- 
ward, and  runs  back  in  a  direction  nearly  oppo- 
site to  its  general  course,  until  ii 


«' 


?mes  withm 


lOi 


% 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/■^•v^  4? 


^^^'*'   *-'*'>^% 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


2.8 

3; 


us 


■  4  0 


2.5 

gag 

2.2 
2.0 


1.8 


i.4    IIIII1.6 


vl 


p> 


'/ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716>  872-4503 


r\^^ 


'<•. 


^  90 

five  or  six  miles  of  the  line  of  demarkation,  jiwt 
below  which  the  great  bend  first  commenced. 
The  distance  across  the  land  is  only  five  miles, 
called  the  Short  Cut ;  but  following  the  course  of 
the  river  is  fifty  miles.  Here  the  bend  still  con- 
tinues, turning  to  the  eastward  and  southv/ard, 
until  it  comes  within  one  mile  and  a  half  of  the 
river  in  its  course  to  the  northward  ;  nearly 
completing  a  circle  of  about  thirty  miles  in  cir- 
cumference. The  last  of  these  bends  is  called 
Tunica  Bend,  at  the  extremity  of  which  is  Tuni- 
ca village,  a  handsome  settlement,  extending 
about  twelve  miles  along  the  east  side  of  the 
river. 

Point  Coupee  is  about  fifteen  miles  below  Tu- 
nica village,  on  the  western  side,  where  there  was 
formerly  a  bend,  nearly  resembling  Tunica  Bend, 
but  of  smaller  size.  Here  the  river,  after  making 
a  circuit  of  about  twenty  miles,  returned  almost 
into  Its  own  stream.  A  channel,  some  years  ago, 
was  cut  across,  and  by  the  washing  of  the  current] 
the  river  is  become  as  deep  and  broad  as  it  is 
above  and  below,  by  which  a  saving  is  made  of 
about  twenty  miles  in  the  distance.  The  old  bend 
is  called  Fausse  Riviere. 

Point  Coupee  is  a  rich  and  populous  settlement, 
extending  about  twenty  miles  on  the  river.  The 
land  is  laid  out  in  beautiful  cotton  plantations, 
producing  great  crops.  Here  commences  the 
embankment  or  Levee,  on  the  western  side  of  the 
nver,  which  is  continued  to  Orleans,  a  distance 


91 

of  about  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles.  Here 
the  beauty  of  the  Mississippi  and  prospect  of  the 
country  exhibit  a  view  so  enchantingly  delight- 
ful, as  scarcely  to  admit  of  description.  On  the 
side  of  this  elevated,  artificial  bank,  is  a  range  of 
handsome,  neatly  built  houses,  appearing  like 
one  continued  village,  as  far  as  the  city  of  Or- 
leans. They  are  one  story,  framed  buildings, 
elevated  on  piles  six  or  eight  feet  high,  and  well 
painted  ;  the  paint  generally  white.  The  houses 
for  the  slaves  are  mostly  placed  on  straight  lines 
and  nicely  white-washed.  The  perpetual  verdure 
of  numerous  orange  trees,  intermixed  with  fig 
trees  surrounding  the  houses,  and  planted  in 
groves  and  orchards  near  them,  highly  beau- 
tify the  prospect ;  while  the  grateful  fragrance 
of  constant  blossoms,  and  the  successive  prog- 
ress to  plentiful  ripened  fruit,  charm  the  eye,  and 
regale  the  senses. 

Baton  Rouge,  a  very  fine,  flourishingsettlemen*, 
is  about  thirty  miles  below  Point  Coupee,  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  river.  Here  the  high  lands 
terminate  in  an  elevated  bluff,  thirty  or  forty  feet 
above  the  greatest  rise  of  the  water  in  the  river. 
And  here  commences  the  embankment  or  Levee 
which  is  continued,  like  that  on  the  western  side, 
to  Orleans  ;  and  a  range  of  houses,  ornamented 
with  orange  and  fig  trees,  the  same  distance, 
perfectly  similar  to  that  on  the  opposite  bank. 
Baton  Rouge  settlement  extends  about  twenty 
miles  on  the  river,  and  to  a  considerable  distance 


back,  in  an  eastern  direction.  The  soil  is  rich  ; 
the  cotton  plantations  are  well  cultivated)  produ- 
cing plentiful  crops. 

About  fifteen  miles  further  down,  on  the  same 
side,  is  the  river  Iberville,  which  forms  an  cut- 
let from  the  Mississippi  when  the  water  is  high, 
but  when  the  river  is  low,  it  is  dry.     The  water 
of  this  stream  runs  into  the  lakes  Maurepas  and 
Ponchartrain,  and  through  them'to  the  sea,  form- 
ing what  is  called  the  island  of  New  Orleans. 
At  a  point  a  little  below  the  Iberville,  commences 
an  uninterrupted  series  of  plantations,  which  are 
continued,  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles,  to  the 
city  of  Orleans.  These  plantations  are  all  cleared 
in  front,  and  unde''  improvement.    Some  of  them 
are  planted  with  sugar  cane,  but  the  greater  part 
with  cotton.     They  are  narrow  at  the  bank,  and 
extend   back  to  the  swampy  ground,  which  is 
incapable  of  cultivation  ;    the  land  no  where  ad- 
mitting of  more  than  one  plantation  deep. 

At  the  point  below  the  Iberville,  the  Missis-^ 
sippi  turns  short  to  the  westward,  forming  a  large 
bend.  At  the  extremity  of  this  bend  is  an  out- 
let, called  the  bayau  Placquemine,onthe  western 
side,  discharging  its  waters  into  the  sea.  By  this 
bayau  is  the  principal  communication  with  the 
two  populous  and  rich  settlements  of  Atacapas 
and  Opelousas.  These  settlements  are  the  most 
wealthy  in  Louisiana,  abounding  in  horses  and 
neat  cattle ;  containing  a  large  quantity  of  good 
land,  capable  of  being  much  better  improved. 


§8 


The  ba}fau  la  Fourche,  an  the  same  sidjCy  is 
about  thirty  miles  farther  down,  following  the 
meanders  of  the  river,  and  eighty  from  the  city  of 
Orleans.  From  this  bayau  the  course  of  the 
river  is  nearl)  south  east,  and  much  more  direct 
to  the  city.  Bayau  la  Fourche  is  a  large  ondet, 
forming  a  considerable  river,  which  commuxu* 
cates  with  the  sea  to  the  west  of  the  BaHse«  In 
old  maps  h  is  called  La  Riviere  dcs  Checamaches. 
When  the  wxtcr  is  high  it  will  admit  of  craft  of 
aizty  or  seventy  tons  htivden.  On  its  banks  are 
namerotis  aettleasents,  one  plantation  deep»  The 
land  is  rich  and  gradually  descends  frcMaa  the 
banks  to  the  swamps,  which  a:  u  generally  covered 
vrith  water^  and  incapable  of  cnltivation.  The 
cukure  is  principalfy  catU»i. 
>dFr>om  this  outlet  to  the  city^  the  land  will  ad* 
mit  of  only  one  plantation  deep,  and  is  rarely 
capable  of  cultivation,  more  than  one  mile  from 
the  bank  of  the  river.  It  then  becomes  low  and 
swampy  to  the  lakes  and  the  sea.  The,swam]» 
arc  immense,  intersected  b^  creeks  and  lakes, 
extending  more  than  one  hundred  .miles  to  the 
high  lands  of  Atacapas.  But  the  swamps  gener-* 
ally  abound  with  large  cypress  trees.  Great 
quantities  of  this  timber  is  sawed  by  mills,  erect- 
ed on  streams  formed  by  cutting  sluices  through 
the  Levee.  These  mills  are  worked  with  gseat 
rapidity  nearly  half  the  year.  What  has  been 
said  of  the  situation,  soil,  and  culture  of  the 
plantation  below  Iberville,  on  the  eastern  side  of 


94 


which 


the  river,  will  very  nearly  apply  to  tho 
are  opposite,  on  the  western  side. 

The  city  of  New  Orleans,  is  situated  in  a  bend 
of  the  river,  on  the  eastern  sidc,:n  latitude  thirty, 
north,  and  longitude  ninety,  west.  It  was  laid 
out  by  the  French,  in  the  year  1720,  extending 
about  a  mile  on  front,  from  the  gate  of  France, 
to  that  of  Chapitoulas,  and  somewhat  more  than 
one  third  of  a  mile  in  rear  to  the  rampart.  On 
the  upper  side  an  extensive  suburb  has  been  added, 
I  called   Saint   Mary.    The   streets  are   straight, 

crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  but  are  much 
too  narrow,  being  only  thirty^two  French  fee    ia 
width.  In  the  centre  of  the  front  of  the  city  is  s 
large,   handsome  square,   called  Place  D'armes. 
The  church  and  town  house,  built  of  stone,  stand 
facing  the  square.     The  houses  in  front  of  the 
city,   and  one  or  two  squares  back,  are  mostly 
brick,  and  are  two   stories  high  ;  the  rest  of  the 
houses  are  chiefly  one  story,  and  built  of  wood. 
They   are    elevated  about    eight  feet  from  the 
ground,  to  avoid  the  inconvenience  of  w..„4r,  and 
the  under  part  generally  occupied  as  cellars.  The 
city  has  been  fortified,  but  the  works,  which  were 
originally  too  deficient  to  have  been  defended, 
have  gone  to   decay,  and   are   now  principally 
removed.     There   are  about  one  thousand  five 
hundred   houses,    and  between  ten  and   twelve 
thousand  inhabitants,  including  Saint  Mary's.    It 
is  the  capital  of  Louisiana,  and  the  seat  of  gov- 
ernment of  the  lower  territory.      Although  the 


95 


1 


situation  is  unhealthy,  large  accessions  to  the 
population  are  annually  made  from  the  United 
States,  and  from  other  parts  of  the  world.  It  is 
the  principal  mart  of  the  western  country,  where 
large  shipments  are  made  to  foreign  markets. 
From  its  local  advantages,  it  bids  fair  to  become 
one  of  our  greatest  commercial  cities. 
■^* Opposite  to  the  city,  the  river  is  about  one 
mile  and  a  half  in  breadth,  running  with  a  pretty 
strong  current ;  and  yet  there  is  a  perceptible 
rise  of  the  tide  ;  when  the  water  is  low  it  ebbs 
and  flows  from  a  foot  to  a  foot  and  a  half,  in  per- 
pendicular height.  The  distance  from  the  city  to 
the  sea,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  is  about  one 
hundred  and  eight  miles  ;  and  the  country  low 
and  swampy,  containing  very  little  land  capable 
of  cultivation.  Fifteen  miles  below  the  city,  and 
at  the  head  of  the  English  bend,  is  a  settlement, 
called  Saint  Bernardo,  or  Tcrre  aux  Bceuf,  con- 
taining two  parishes.  The  inhabitants  are  nearly 
all  Spaniards  from  the  Canaries, .  who  improve  a 
narrow  strip  of  land,  principally  for  raising  poul- 
try and  garden  vegetables,  for  the  market  at  New 
Orleans.  At  this  place  a  cantonment  was  formed, 
and  the  late  army,  under  the  command  of  General 
Wilkinson,  was  mostly  stationed,  where  a  v.ery 
distressing^  and  mortal  sickness  prevailed  among 
the  troops. 

Fiom  this  setdement  to  the  fort  of  Plaquemines, 
forty-eight  miles,  the  land  is  a  morass,  almost  im- 
passable for  man  or  beast,  and  always  oversowed 


if 


n 


h 


it 

for  sereral  months  tn  the  year,  but  6lled  with 
cypress  and  jack  brush.  From  Plaqiiemiiies  to 
the  Passes  is  twenty-four  miles,  where  the  river 
branches  into  three  parts.  Theae  branches  are 
called  Pasfles,  and  distinguished,  by  the  -east, 
south,  and  west  Pass*  The  land  in  this  distance 
is  mostly  clothed  with  jack  bushes  and  tall  weeds. 
From  these  branches  to  the  sea  is  about  twenty 
miles,  and  the  land  has  the  appearance  of  a  vastly 
extended  marsh,  destitute  of  trees  or  shrubs, 
but  covered  with  long  grass. 

The  Eastt  Pass,  at  the  distance  of  six  miles^ 
divide  into  two  branches*  The  eastern  is  called 
Pa:^s  a  la  Loutre,  and  the  other  Belize.  On  the 
Belize  is  a  small  black  house,  called  by  the  same 
name,  and  near  it  are  a  number  of  houses,  occu- 
pied by  pilots.  Large  ships,  bound  up  the  river, 
enter  it  by  this  Pass ;  there  being  the  greatest 
depth  of  water  on  the  bar.  At  the  entrance  of 
ttiis  Pass  about  sixteen  feet  of  water  may  be  car- 
ried over  the  bar.  The  bars  lie  without  the 
mouths  of  the  Passes,  are  very  narrow,  and  im- 
mediately after  passing  them  the  water  deepens 
to  six*^:  seven  fathoms.  The  South  Pass,  which 
is  directly  in  front  of  Mississippi,  has  been  almost 
entirely  choaked  with  drift  wood,  but  has  about 
ten  feet  of  watei'  on  the  bar.  The  West  Pass, 
which  is  the  longest  and  narrowest,  and  used  to 
be  the  passage  by  which  large  ships  entered  the 
river,  had  some   years  ago  eighteen  feet,  but  is 


.  HOW  said  to  be  reduced  to  only  eight  feet  of  water 
on  the  bar. 

The  productions  of  Louisiana  are  cottoh^^  sugar, 
rum,  indigo,  rice,  corn,  furs,  and  peltry.     It  also 
affords  lumber,  tar,  pitch,  lead,  hordes,  and  cattle. 
The  fertility  of  the  soil  admit!!  of  great  increase 
of  these  and  an  additional  supply  of  m^rty  other 
articles.    The  culture  of  the  sugar  cane,  which 
has  already  become  considerable,  may  doubdess 
be  carried  to  a  very  great  extent.     At  present, 
cotton  is  the  largest  and  most  profitable  produc- 
tion.    Indigo   if  on  the  decline.     Further  north 
than  the  Iberville,  the  sugar  cane  is  liable  to  be 
injured  by  the  cold,  and  the  crops  rendered  un- 
certain ;  but  all  the  lands  southward,  susceptible 
of  improvement,  and  adapted  to  that  kind  of  cul- 
ture, will  produce  the  cane  in  good  perfection. 
In  some  parts  it  is  already  became  a  staple  com- 
modity. Some  planters  employ  afc  ut  one  quarter 
of  their  plantations   in  the  production  of  sugar 
cane,  and  the  remainder  in  pasture,    and  raising 
provisions.    It  is  estimated  that  one  hundred  and 
eighty  feet   square  will  produce,  on  an  average, 
twelve  hundred  weight  of  sugar,  and  fifty  gallons 
of  rum.     Calculating  on  this  data,  it  is  presumed 
the  lands  under  present  cultivation,  suited  to  this 
culture,     would     produce    about   fifty  thousand 
hogsheads  of  sugar,  and  twenty-four  thousand 
puncheons  of  rum.     It  is  believed  by  some   that 
as  a  full  and  regular  supply  of  provisions  may  be 
easily  obtained  froni  above,  on  moderate  terms 
9  ' 


w 


98 


f 


m 


one  half  the  arable  land  might  be  planted  with 
cane,  to  advantage.  It  is  likewise  an  undoubted 
fact,  that  large  portions  of  vacant  land  are  to  be 
found,  well  adapted  to  the  cujlture  of  the  cane. 
The  following  quantities  of  sugar,  brown,  clayed, 
and  reBned,  were  imported  into  the  United  States 
irom  Louisiana  and  the  Floridas,  viz.  in  the 
year  1799 — 773,542  pounds  ;  in  the  year  1800 — 
1,560,887  pounds  ;  in  the  year  1801 — 967,619 
pounds,  and  in  the  year  1802 — 1,576,993  pounds. 
The  quantity  produced  in  the  succeeding  years 
has  probably  been  considerably  increased. 


'if 
I 


TOPOGRAPHICAL  DESCRIPTION 


or 


RED  RIVER. 


1  HIS  river  enters  the  Mississippi  on  the  western 
side,  at  the  first  great  bend  below  Fort  Adams, 
about  nine  miles  distant  from  the  crossing  of  the 
line  of  demarkation.  It  is  large,  and  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  rivers  in  Lower  Louisiana.  Its 
waters  are  brackish,  of  a  reddish  colour,  turbid, 
and  deposit  a  sediment  collected  from  the  red 
banks,  far  up  the  river.  The  banks  are  overflowed 
in  the  spring  to  a  great  extent,  and  in  places  to 
the  depth  of  fifteen  cr  eighteen  feet.  The  fresh- 
ets begin  to  fall  in  June,  and  by  August  the  water 
retires  to  the  channel  of  the  river  and  lagoons. 
In  the  low  lands  the  growth  is  principally  willow 
and  cotton  wood,  and  on  the  higher,  large  elms, 
ash,  and  hickory  ;  where  the  grape  vine  greatly 
abounds.  About  six  miles  from  the  mouth  of 
the  river  is  a  bayau,  leading  from  Lake  Log^ 
which  is  a  narrow   lake,   two  or  three   miles"  Jl^ 


TfT" 


I 


100 

width,  and  fourteen  or  fifteen  in  length.    Twenty- 
five  miles  further  up  is  the   confluence   of  Black 
river,  which   is   large  at  its  mouth,   and  coming  - 
from  a  northerly  direction. 

The  first  settlement  on   Red  river,  called  Ba- 
ker''s  station,  at  the  commencement  of  Avoyelles 
is  about  seventy  miles  from  its  mouth,  as  the  river 
runs,  although   not  more  than  one   third   of  the 
distance,  on  a  straight  course.  Above  this  station 
is  a  prairie  thirty  or  forty  miles  in  circumference. 
It   is   entirely  destitute  of  trees   or  shrr*-'",   but 
produces  an  excellent  grass   for  fattening  cattle. 
The  beef  is  said  to  be  of  an  'jxcellent  quality,  and 
hogs  find  ground  nuts  and  other  food,  on  which 
they  thrive,  and  become  good  pork.     The  inhab- 
itants are  settled  in  th-  outer  skirts,  oa  the  border 
of  the  woods.      This  prairie  has  the  appearance 
of  a  good  soil,  but  is  found   to  be  too   cold  for 
cotton  and  Indian  corn,  which  thrive  much  better 
on  land  where  there  has  been  a  growth  of  wood. 
Little  or  no  wheat  is  raised,  as  they  have  no  mills. 
to  grind  it.     The   inhabitants   are  a   mixture  of 
Spaniard,  French,    Irish,  and   Americans,   who 
are  generally  poor,  and  extremely  ignorant. 

A  icvf  miles  above  this  prairie,  the  land 
begins  to  be  moderaiely  hilly.  Near  the  rivcr^ 
the  timber  is  oak,  hickory,  and  some  pine,  but 
back  from  the  river  the  growth  is  mostly  pine  for 
thirty  or  forty  miles. 

Holmes^  station  is  about  forty  miles  above 
Baker's,  where  there   is  a  settlement.     The  land 


101 


produces  good  cotton,  corn,  and  tobacco.  On  the 
south  side,  of  the  river  there  is  a'  large  body  of 
rich  land,  extending  to  Appalousa,  which  is 
watered  and  drained  by  two  large  bayauit,  colled 
bayau  Robert  and  bayau  Beuf.  Their  waters  are 
very  clear^  and  take  their  rise  in  the  high  lands 
betwen  Red  river  and  the  Sabine.  These  waters 
are  discharged  into  the  ChafFetis.  It  is  believ  i 
this  body  of  land,  which  is  forty  miles  square,  in 
richness  of  soil,  growth  of  timber,  goodness  of 
watei,  and  convenience  of  lavigation  is  equal 
to  any  tract  ot  land  in  this  pan  of  Louisiana. 

Erom  Holmes*  to  bayau  Rapide  is  thirty-five 
miles,  and  for  this  distance  there  are  only  a  few 
scattered  settlements  on  the  right  side  of  the 
river,  and  none  on  the  left.  The  right  side  is 
preferred  on  account  of  the  high  lands,  which  are 
most  convenient  for  keeping  stock.  The  lands 
on  the  bayau  Rapide,  are  nearly  of  the  same 
quality  with  the  bayau  Robert  and  bayau  Beuf. 
The  two  mouths  of  this  bayau  meet  the  river 
about  twenty  miles  apart*  The  length  of  this 
bayau  is  about  thirty  miles,  forming  a  curvature 
somewhat  in  the  shape  of  a  half  moon.  On  its 
back  another  bayau  falls  into  it,  of  excellent 
'^ater,  on  which  there  is  a  saw  mill.  Boats  can- 
not pass  round  this  curvature  on  the  account  of  ob- 
structions formed  by  rafts  of  timber,  but  can 
ascend  from  the  lower  mouth  more  than  half  the 
distance.  On  each  side  the  lower  mouth  is  th6 
principal  settlement,  called  the  Rapide  settlement. 
9* 


102 


If- 


I 


Few  countries  exhibit  a  more  delightful  appear- 
ance than  this  settlement.  The  plantations  are 
extremely  beautiful,  and  the  soil  exceedingly- 
rich.  The  cotton  raised  here  is  of  the  best  qual- 
ity in  Louisiana,  The  corn  and  tobacco  are  very 
good,  as  are  all  kinds  of  vegetables.  The  orange 
and  fig  trees  grow  luxuriously,  and  the  climate  is 
delightful. 

At  the  Rapide  is  a  fall  of  water,  occasioned  by 
a  soft  rock  which  crosses  the  bed  of  the  river,  so 
thH  from  July  to  December  there  is  not  suffi- 
cient  water  for  boats  to  pass  over,  but  the  rest  of 
t}*e  season  they  pass  with  ease.  This  rock  is  so 
very  soft,  as  not  much  to  exceed,  in  hardness, 
some  kinds  of  hard  clay,  and  it  is  presumed  a 
passage  might  be  cut  through  it,  with  very  little 
difficulty,  so  as  to  make  it  as  low  as  the  beid^of  the 
river. 

From  the  Rapide  to  the  Inuian  villages  is 
about  twenty  miles,  with  very  few  settlements  for 
the  whole  distance,  although  the  land  is  fine,  and 
susceptible  of  all  kind  of  cultivation.  The  Indian 
villages  are  pleasantly  situated  on  both  sides  of 
the  river,  and  the  land  very  good.  Just  above 
these  villages  is  Gillard's  s.ation,  on  an  high  pine 
bluff,  which,  on  the  east  side,  overlooks  extensive 
fields  and  meadows,  in  a  good  state  of  cultivation, 
and  affords  a  view  of  a  very  long  reach  of  the  river! 
Here  is  an  excellent  spring  of  water,  gushing  out 
from  an  aperture  in  a  rock  on  the  bank  of  the 
Tivi^r,  about  high  water  mark.     Back   from  the 


103 


house  is  a  lake,  which  abounds  with  fish  in  sum- 
mer, and  fowl  in  the  winter. 

About  six  miles  above  Gillard'^s  is  the  village 
of  the  Boluxa  Indians,  where  the  river  divide* 
into  two  branches,  forming  an  island  of  about 
fifty  milcc  in  length,  and  three  or  four  in  breadth. 
The  right  hand  stream  is  called  Rigula  de 
Bondieuy  on  which  there  are  no  settlements.  On 
the  left  hand  is  the  boat  channel  to  Natchitoches, 
and  ou  this  branch,  for  twenty-four  miles,  there 
are  thick  settlements,  and  the  inhabitants  wealthy. 
This  is  called  the  River  Cane  settlement. 

Above  this  settlement,  the  river  divides  again, 
forming  another  Island  of  about  thirty  miles  in 
length,  and  three  or  four  in  breadth,  called  Isle 
Brevet,  This  Island  is  subdivided  by  a  bayau 
which  crosses  the  Island  from  one  river  to 
the  other,  and  is  called  Bayau  Brevel.  The 
middle  division  of  the  river  is  called  Litde  river, 
and  is  the  boat  channel,  where  there  are  thick 
settlements.  The  westward  channel,  called  False 
river,  is  navigable*  but  the  banks  being  very  low, 
there  are  no  settlements.  The  river  passes 
through  a  lake,  called  Lai  Occasse,  Above  this 
lake  the  three  channels  meet,  where  Natchitoches 
is  situated.  The  town  is  small,  and  meanly  built, 
containing  about  forty  or  fifty  houses,  inhabited 
principally  by  French  people. 

The  fort,  which  is  now  called  Fort  Claiborn, 
is  on  a  small  hill,  forty  rods  from  the  river,  con- 
taioing  about  two  acres*    This  hill  is  wholly  oo 


104 


I 


cupied  by  the  fort  and  barracks,  and  is  elevated 
thirty  feet  above  the  river  banks.     Natchitoches 
is    an   ancient  French    settlement,  which   com- 
menced nearly   a  century  ago,  where   a   trading 
post  was  established,  and  an  extensive  traffic  car- 
ried on  with  the  Indians.  This  despicable  village 
is  not  on  the  site  where  the  ancient  town  stood ; 
the  present  inhabitants,  having  been  almost  en- 
tirely secluded   from  the   civilized  world,   have 
degenerated  to  a  miserable,  ignorant  set  of  beings ; 
but  a  small  degree  removed  from  the  state  of  the 
savages,  with  whom  they  have  had  their  princi- 
pal intercourse.     When  a  large  trade  was  carried 
on  with  the  natives,  many  years  ago,   the  town 
was  much  larger  than  it  is  at  present ;  the  peo- 
ple having  left  the  town  to  settle  on  farms  in  the 
adjacent   country,   but  principally  on  the    long 
round,  near  the  river.      Very  little  now  remains 
to  be  seen  of  the  old  parts  of  the  town,  except 
the  form  of  their  gardens,  and  a  few  ornamental 
trees.     There  is  one  great  inconvenience  in   set- 
tling near  Red  river ;    the   waters    being  never 
clear,  and  always  brackish.    Wells,  sunk  near  the 
river,  have  brackish  and  unpleasant  water.  There 
are  "ome  tolerable   springs,  but  the  inhabitants 
are  obliged  principally  to  depend  on  rain  water. 

Near  Natchitoches  are  two  large  lakes,  one  a 
mile,  and  the  other  six  miles  distant.  One  of  the 
lakes  is'  thirty,  and  the  other  fifty  or  sixty  miles 
in  circumference.  These  lakes  are  connected 
with  the  river  by  bayaus.     When  the  water  rises 


105 


in  the  river,  it  rushes  into  the  I^kes,  and  then 
rushes  back  again,  as  the  water  falls  in  the  river. 
The  immens<*  number  of  fowl  which  abound  in 
these  lakes,  during  the  winter,  almost  exceeds 
credibility.  The  air  is  darkened  with  the  large 
flights,  especially  near  the  close  of  the  day  ;  and 
the  ear  almost  stunned  with  the  noise  they  make. 
One  man  may  kill  many  hundreds  in  an  after- 
noon. The  hunter  takes  his  station  on  a  coavea- 
ient  spot,  and  loads  and  fires  as  fast  as  possible, 
without  taking  particular  aim,  until  he  fiiufe  lue 
has  killed  a  sufficient  number  to  load  hb  korses. 
Th-'ie  fowl  are  swan,  geese,  br&.nt,  and  several 
species  of  ducks.  In  the  summer,  several  kinds 
of  fish  are  said  to  be  equally  plenty.  The  In- 
dians, in  taking  fish,  frequently  make  use  only  of 
the  bow  and  arrow.  With  this  instrument  an 
Indian  will  often  load  his  horse  in  a  very  short 
time.  The  fish  consist  principally  of  the  cat,  pike, 
buffaloe,  sucker,  and  white  and  black  perch,  and 
arc  generally  of  a  very  large  size. 

From  Natchitoches  there  is  a  communication 
with  the  frontiers  of  New  Mexico.  Here  th« 
road  leading  to  Saint  a  Fe  leaves  Red  river,  and 
passes,  in  a  westerly  direction  through  the  Span< 
ish  Province  of  Texes.  The  country  is  said  to 
consist  of  very  extensive  plains,  abounding  with 
horses  and  cattle.  Major  Z.  M.  Pike,  who  was 
sent,  by  the  government  to  explore  the  head 
waters  of  the  Osage  and  Red  river,  was  taken 
by  the  Spaniards,  and  he  and  his  party,  as  prison- 


■ii 


106 


1H! 


ers,  were  conducted  to  Saint  a  Fc.  He  found 
the  city  large  and  populous ;  the  country  thickly 
settled,  and  highly  cultivated.  When  he  was 
liberated,  he  was  conducted,  on  his  return  to  the 
United  States,  in  a  different  route,  through  a  coun- 
try well  filled  with  inhabitants  and  a  number  of 
large  cities. 

At  the  distance  of  about  ten  miles  above 
Natchitoches,  there  is  another  lake  which  is  on 
the  northeast  side  of  Red  river,  called  Noiz,  and 
is  about  fifty  miles  in  circumference.  The  bayau 
or  outlet  of  this  lake  communicates  with  Rigula 
de  Bondieu.  The  bayau  Rigula  de  Bondieu  en- 
ters Red  river  about  three  miles  above  Natchito- 
ches. Near  the  lake  Noiz,  all  the  salt  used  on 
Red  river  is  made.  This  large  quantity  of  salt, 
until  lately,  was  made  by  only  two  men,  and  with 
a  few  pots  and  kettels.  It  is  now  better  worked, 
but  not  to  a  hundredth  part  of  the  extent  to  which 
it  might  be  carried.  The  water  is  so  highly  im- 
t>regnated  with  salt  as  to  require  very  little  boiling. 
The  conveyance  of  the  salt  to  market  is  easy,  as 
the  bayau  is  boatable  most  of  the  year  into  the 
lake. 

Where  the  bayau  communicates.  Red  river  is 
in  one  channel,  and  here  the  settlement  of  '^-and 
Ecore  commences,  extending  about  six  miles. 
Stone  coal  is  found  near  this  settlement,  and  some 
fine  springs  of  water  issue  from  the  banks  of  the 
itvvi*  ^xuvui  uuc  liiiic  uuuvc  v:;rauu.  iiicorc,  on 
the   h?ft  side  of  the  river  comes  in  a  large  bayau 


lor 


from  the  Spanish  lake,  so  called.  This  lake  is 
about  fifty  miles  in  circumference,  and  rises  and 
falls  with  the  river,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
lakes  near  Natchitoches.  Two  miles  above  this 
bayau  the  river  is  divided  into  two  streams.  The 
course  of  the  west  branch  is  westerly  for  nearly 
eighty  miles,  where  it  turns  to  the  eastward,  and 
communicates  with  the  right  branch,  forming  an 
Island  one  hundred  miles  long,  and  in  some  parts 
of  it  thirty  miles  wide.  The  upper  end  of  this 
branch  is  so  choaked  up  with  drift  wood  that 
boats  cannot  pass.  Settlements,  of  entirely  French 
people,  extend  nearly  the  whole  length  of  this 
branch,  called  bayau  Peir  settlements.  The  land 
is  fertile,  and  the  scattered  inhabitants  possess 
large  herds  of  cattle,  and  appear  to  live  very  well. 
The  face  of  this  tract  of  country  is  moderately 
hilly,  and  the  water  very  good.  Some  miles  west- 
ward, towards  the  Sabine  river,  is  a  saline,  where 
they  procure  their  salt.  * 

On  the  main,  or  eastern  branch  of  the  river, 
there  are  a  few  scattered  settlements,  including 
one  called  Camti.  The  land  on  this  branch  is 
similar  to  that  on  the  other,  excepting  that  near 
Camti,  it  is  much  intersected  and  broken  by 
bayaus.  The  land  at  the  upper  part  of  these  set- 
tlements is  considered  not  inferior  to  any  on  the 
Red  river.  The  computed  distance  from  the 
mouth  of  Red  river  is  one  hundred  and  forty 
miles,  and  between  thirty  and  forty  from  Natchi- 
toches.    At  the  upper  houses  the  great  jam  of 


lit 


r 


iii 


108 

drifted  timber  begins,  choaking  up  the  river,  at 
intermediate  places,  which  are  frequently  several 
leagues  apart,  for  one  hundred  miles.  The 
stream  is  extremely  crooked,  and  the  low  lands, 
which  are  rich,  extend  to  a  great  width  dn  each 
side.  Although  the  river  is  so  obstructed,  boats 
of  any  size  can  ascend  in  a  bayau  most  of  the 
year.  This  is  called  bayau  Channo^  leading  into 
lake  Btftino,  at  the  distance  of  about  three  miles 
from  where  it  leaves  the  river.  This  lake  is  about 
sixity  miles  in  length,  and  is  nearly  parallel  with 
the  river.  A  communication  with  Ae  river  is 
fermed  at  the  upper  end,  by  a  bayau,  called 
DaicJiet,  This  passage  is  much  shorter  than  to 
follow  the  meanders  of  the  river.  From  this 
bayau  to  the  mountains  the  river  is  free  of  ob- 
structions* 

Nearly  eighty  miles  above  bayau  Daichet  is 
the  Caddo  old  town.  The  lands  for  this  distance 
are  rich,  consisting  of  high  bottom,  which  is 
widely  extended  from  the  river.  The  Caddo  old 
towns  consist  of  a  number  of  villages  built  on  a 
large  prairie,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  a  lake  of 
about  five  miles  in  circumference,  without  any 
stream  running  in,  or  out  of  it.  The  water  is  so 
perfectly  limpid,  and  the  bottom  so  clear,  that 
the  fish  may  be  distinctly  seen,  at  the  depth  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  On  this  prairie,  and  not 
far  from  the  lake,  is  an  eminence  to  which  the 
Indians  pay  great  vctieralioii.  They  nave  a  tra- 
dition, that  the  Great  Spirit,  having  determined 


109 


iver,  at 
several 
.  The 
V  lands, 
dn  each 
d,  boats 
;  of  tlie 
mg  into 
e  miles 
s  about 
[el  with 
river  is 
,  called 
than  to 
m  this 
of  ob- 

ichet  is 
listance 
hich  is 
ido  old 
It  on  a 
lake  of 
yjit  any 
er  is  so 
ir,  that 
;pth  of 
nd  not 
iich  the 
e  a  tra- 
rmined 


to  deluge  the  earth  with  water,  and  drown  all  the 
people  upon  it,  selected  one  Caddo  family,  and 
placed  it  on  this  eminence.  The  water  ndt  rising 
so  high  as  the  top  of  it,  this  family  was  saved, 
when  all  the  rest  of  the  people  in  the  world  were 
destroyed  ;  and  from  this  family  all  the  Indian 
nations  are  descendants.  Not  only  the  Caddos, 
but  all  the  other  bands  of  Indians,  pay  homage 
to  this  eminence,  when  they  pass  it.  The  neigh- 
bouring bands  consider  the  Caddoquies  their 
common  father,  and  treat  them  with  respect. 
Their  number  of  warriors  do  not  much  exceed 
one  hundred  men,  but  they  brave  death  with  the 
utmost  fortitude,  and  boast  that  they  have  never 
embrued  their  hands  in  the  blood  of  a  white  man. 
They  carry  on  an  incessant  warfare  with  the 
Osage  and  Chicktaw  nations,  but  live  in  peace 
with  the  other  bands. 

From  the  Caddo  old  towns  to  the  Panis  vil- 
lages, following  the  course  of  the  river,  which  is 
nearly  west,  is  about  seven  hundred  miles ;  the 
land  alternately  clothed  with  timber  and  prairie, 
and  some  of  the  prairies  very  extensive  On  a 
branch  of  Red  river,  which  comes  in  about  one 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  below  the  Panis  towns, 
it  IS  said,  silver  mines  have  been  lately  discov- 
ered ;  and  just  below  the  first  village,  the  Ra- 
ha-cha-ha,  or  the  Missouri  branch  of  Red  river, 
enters  from  the  north  5  which  is  a  large  stream, 
and  the  water  so  brackish  ,that  it  cannot  be  drank. 
At  its  head  waters,  the  Indians  collect  large 


io 


'(  ! 


Ill 


110 

lumps  of  rock  salt.  From  the  Panis  villages  to 
the  head  of  Red  river  the  land  is  broken  and 
mountainous,  and  wholly  destitute  of  wood,  ex- 
cepting willows  and  small  cotton  wood  trees  on 
the  borders  of  the  streams.  The  Indians  report 
that  there  are  many  silver  mines  among  these 
mountains,  of  which  the  white  people  have  no 
knowledge. 

The  Panis  or  Towiache  Indians,  who  reside  on 
these   waters,    were   once  powerful,  but  are  re- 
duced  to   about  four  hundred   warriors.     They 
live  in  villages,  and  have  large  numbers  of  horses 
ani   mules,    and    raise    corn,    tobacco,    beans, 
squashes,  and  pumpkins.     They  cut  the  pump- 
kins into  long,   narrow    strips,   as   is  sometimes 
done  by  white  people,  to  dry  them.     When   they 
are  sufficiently  wilted  to  be  tough,   they  weave 
them  into  mats.     These  mats,  with  the  other  pro- 
ductions they  raise,  they  sell  to  the  roving  bands 
of  the  Hietan   Indians,  who  rove  in  the   plains 
and   mountains   between   Red   river  and  Saint  a 
F6,   but  never   live  in  villages.      The   Hietans 
wear  these   mats  over  their  shoulders  ;    and,  as 
they  travel,  cut  off  pieces  and  eat,  until  they  have 
devoured  their   mats.     These    commodities    the 
Panis  exchange  for  buffaloe   robes,  horses,  and 
mules.     Although   their  country   abounds    with 
game,    they  are   not    esteemed    good    hunters. 
Having  tew  guns,  they  depend  on  their  bows  and 
arrows.     The  buffaloe,  deer,  bear,   antelope,  atid 
wild   hogs,    are    in  great  plenty ;  but  they  live 


Ill 


principally  on  bufFaloe  meat,  and  rarely  kill  a 
deer.  The  men  go  naked,  except  their  breech 
flap,  and  the  women  wear  only  a  short  coat  of 
dressed  leather,  tied  round  the  waist.  These 
Indians  are  at  perpetual  war  with  the  Osage 
nation. 

Black  river,  a  large  branch  of  Red  river,  has 
already  been  mentioned.  Coming  from  a  north- 
ern direction,  it  enters  Red  river  about  thirty 
miles  above  its  mouth.  The  course  of  Black 
river  is  nearly  parallel  with  Mississippi,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  about  forty  miles.  Between  these  riv- 
ers the  land  is  overflowed  when  the  Mississippi  is 
high.  At  the  time  this  immense  cypress  swamp 
is  flooded,  it  exhibits  the  appearance  of  a  vast 
number  of  large  trees,  standing  in  a  lake,  or  a 
bay  of  the  sea.  The  name  of  black  river,  at  the 
distance  of  sixty  miles,  is  changed,  and  it  is  then 
called  the  Washata  river.  Here  the  course  of 
the  river  tends  to  the  westward,  and  the  land 
becomes  sufficiently  high  to  admit  of  cultivation 
near  the  bank  of  the  river.  At  the  mouth  of  the 
Washata,  and  near  lake  Cattahoola,  is  a  small 
settlement,  where  the  settlers  have  raised  an  em- 
bankment to  prevent  inundation  when  the  water 
is  high.  Above  this  settlement,  at  the  distance 
of  about  one  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  is  an  ex- 
cellent tract  of  land,  extending  on  the  river,  about 
forty    miles.       Here   the    much     famed   Aaron 

chase  ;  to  commence  the  settlement  was  the  osten- 


112 


ilifi 


sible  object  for  which  he  raised  his  army,  and 
descended  die  Mississippi.  After  his  progress 
was  arrested,  it  is  said,  a  sm.ill  number  of  his 
men  went  into  the  ground,  but  remained  only  a 
short  time.  This  tract  is  high  prairie,  interspersed 
with  wood  land  ;  the  soil  is  exceedingly  rich,  and 
the  face  of  th«  county  delightful.  Some  few  ' 
settlements  have  been  made  upon  it,  and  are 
extended  still  further  up,  where  there  is  a  small 
fort. 

But  the  people  are  extremely  indolent,  and 
having  contracted  the  habits  of  the  Indians,  had 
rather  hunt  than  cultivate  the  soil.  At  the  head 
waters  of  the  Washata  are  the  famous  hot 
springs,  of  which  much  has  been  said,  which, 
with  many,  exceeds  credibility.  It  is  asserted  by 
those  who  have  visited  them,  that  meat  held  in 
them  a  short  time  will  be  sufficiently  cooked  for 
eating.  The  land  where  they  are  found  ia  barren, 
hilly,. and  broken,  but  there  are  no  volcanic  ap- 
pearances. Loud  explosions  are  frequently  heard 
among  the  hills,  somewhat  resembling  the  blowing 
of  rocks  with  gun  powder.  These  noises,  the 
Indians  say,  are  made  by  the  spirits  of  white  peo- 
ple, working  in  the  hills,  in  search  of  silver  and 
gold  mines. 

Between  the  heads  of  branches  which  enter 
Red  river,  and  thcje  which  run  into  the  Arkan- 
sas, is  a  range  of  high  and  impassable  mountains, 
which  extend  to  the  great  nrairies,  eastward  of 
the  waters  of  the  Osage  river.     It  is  said,  a  gold 


113 


mine  ^as  been  discovered  north  of  these  mo»"^» 
tains,  on  a  branch  of  the  Arkansas  river. 
Indians  and  hunters  likewise  report,  that  in 
these  mountains  there  are  several  silver  mines. 

It  has  been  already  mentioned,  that  Ozark 
Post  and  village  is  on  the  Arkansas,  fifty  mile^ 
above  its  mouth.  At  this  post  an  £nsign^s  com- 
mand is  stationed,  which  is  a  detachment  from 
the  Captain's  company,  at  Fort  Pickering.  The 
village  contains  about  sixty  families,  chiefly 
hunters  and  traders ;  many  of  them  the  mixed 
breed  of  Indian  and  white,  and  all  of  them  intol- 
erably lazy  and  indolent.  But  the  soil  is  exceed- 
ingly rich,  producing  every  thing  committed  to  it 
in  great  luxuriance.  Twelve  miles  above  this 
station  is  the  village  of  Ozark,  or  Arkansas  In- 
dians, and  six  miles  further  are  two  more  large 
villages*  Their  warriors  are  computed  at  one 
hundred  and  thirty,  and  about  seven  hundred  in- 
habitants. They  are  friendly  to  all  nations,  ex- 
cept the  Osage.  Although  they  speak  the  same 
language,  they  are  at  perpetual  war  with  each 
other.  There  are  some  smaller  villages  father 
up ;  and  at  the  distance  of  about  forty  or  fifty 
miles,  the  hills  begin  to  rise  on  the  south  side  y 
and  about  three  hundred  miles  further,  they  be- 
come lofty,  inaccessible  mountains. 

On  the  head  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  a  band  of 

Osage  Indians  reside,  who  have  separated  from 

that  nation  on  the  Osage  river.     Their  village  is 

large,  and  their  hunting  ground  a  most  excellent 

10* 


I 


m 


114 

tract  of  high  prairie,  interspersed  with  groves  of 
tltulxr.  h  has  a  deep,  rich  soil,  and  abounds 
viih  a  great  variety  of  wi'd  game.  They  arc 
enemies  to  all  the  other  nations  except  the  little 
Osage  band  ;  none  venture  to  setde  near  them,  or 
presume  to  enter  upon  their  hunting  ground. 
The  ridge  of  mountains  between  Arkansas  and  Red 
river,  form  a  barrier  to  the  Caddos,  and  the  small 
nations  who  rised  on  those  waters  ;  but  they 
sometimes  make  excursions  round  the  mountains, 
and  descend  Red  river,  spreading  terror  and  dep- 
redation among  those  tribes. 

The  widely  extended,  tributary  streams  of  Red 
river,  Arkansas,  and  Osage,  extend  into,  and 
water  an  immense  tract  of  country ;  and  some 
of  the  branches  of  these  rivers  nearly  interlock 
with  each  other.  The  head  waters  of  the  Osago 
river  take  their  rise  at  no  great  distance  from 
those  of  Red  river.  The  general  course  of  the 
Osage  is  nearly  north,  which,  after  running 
through,  perhaps,  the  finest  tract  of  country,  east 
of  the  rocky  mountains,  for  more  than  six  hun- 
dred miles,  enters  the  Missouri  river,  about  twa 
hundred  miles  above  its  mouth. 

The  immensely  extended  prairi"  •  :ottti  ^ence 
about  forty  or  fifty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Osage,  on  the  western  side.  They  generally  ap- 
proach to  a  level,  but  in  some  parts  rise  into 
fswelling  hills,  destitute  of  wood  ;  in  some  parts 
ate  small  copses  of  wood  ;  in  others,  forests  of 
CDiibiderable  extent ;    and  usually  the  streams  ot 


115 


water  are  bordered  with  a  large  growth.  On 
some  of  the  streams,  the  beautiful  wood  called 
Boisjaun,  or  ye'iorv  xvood^  has  been  found. 

The  Osage  nation  of  Indians  reside  principally 
on  this  river.  Their  first  villages  commence 
about  two  hundred  miles  from  its  mouth.  They 
are  divided  into  two  parties,  called  the  Little  and 
Great  Osage,  and  live  in  different  villages.  The 
Little  Osage  nation,  although  derived  from  the 
Great  Osage,  formerly  lived  in  villages  at  the 
mouth  of  Grand  river,  on  the  Missouri  ;  but 
being  exceedingly  harrassed  by  the  SiouT,  and 
other  tribes,  removed  up  the  Osage  river,  and 
placed  themselves  u»  der  the  protection  of  the 
Great  Osage.  Their  villages  are  the  first,  in  as- 
cending the  river,  and  at  a  small  distance  beyond 
them,  commences  the  villages  of  the  Great 
Osage. 

The  Osage  nation  is  one  of  the  largest  and 
most  formidable,  which  has  yet  been  discovered 
in  these  western  regions.  Their  warriors,  inclu- 
ding the  Little  and  Great  Osage,  are  computed 
to  amount  to  two  thousand,  and  about  eight  thous- 
and souls.  They  are  remarkably  tall,  large,  and 
ferocious.  They  are  erect,  well  proportioned, 
and  many  of  them  measure  six  feet  and  two  or 
three  inches.  They  are  expert  hunters,  and  con- 
sidered the  best  warriors  in  the  western  country. 
Being  constantly  at  war  with  every  tribe,  without 
distinction,  their  very  name  carries  terror  with  it 
into    every  other  nation.     They    are    generally 


116 


i^  s 

^  I 


I 


equally  inimical  to  white  people,  which  has  been 
often  witnessed  by  their  attacks  on  the  settlements 
ac  Saint  Lo\iis,  the  lead  mines,  and  Saint  Gen- 
evieve. They  never  fall  upon  these  settle- 
ments without  making  grea'-  depredations,  and 
mostly  get  off  without  suffering  much  injury  them- 
selves. Bu*  the  traders,  when  they  have  once 
entered  their  villages,  are  perfectly  safe,  and  are 
treated  with  much  respect  and  hospitality  while 
there.  Sometimes,  however,  in  going  and 
returning,  they  will  fall  upon,  and  rob  them. 

Although  they  are  great  hunters  and  distin- 
guished warriors,  and  often  ramble  far  in  these 
excursions,  they  live  in  villages,  and  raise  corn, 
beans,  squashes,  pumpkins,  and  melons.  They 
are  proud  and  overbearing,  viewing  all  other 
nations  with  coi-tempt.  In  their  war  expeditions, 
they  are  courageous,  patient,  and  persevering  ; 
enduring  great  fatigue  and  hardship  with  the  ut- 
most fortitude.  They  delight  so  much  in  blood, 
that  no  sufferings  are  too  great  to  encounter,  if  it 
be  necessary  in  making  their  attacks  upon  their 
enemy  by  surprise.  They  generally  kill  all  their 
prisoners,  except  the  children ,  and  these  they 
will  sometimes  adopt  as  their  own.  No  nation 
has  beer  so  able  to  withstand  them,  as  the  roving 
bands  of  the  Sioux.  Having  no  settled  villages, 
they  are  always  prepared  for  war,  and  encounter 
their  enemy  to  more  advantage.  They  sometime! 
engage  in  offensive  wars,  and  venture  to  make 
attacks  on  the  Osage  villages. 


117 


The  complexion  of  the  Osage  nation  Is  between 
an  olive  and  copper  colour  j  their  eyes  dark 
brown  j  their  noses  large  and  aquiline,  and  their 
hair  black,  straight,  and  course.  The  men  pluck 
out,  or  shave  off,  all  the  hair  upon  their  heads, 
except  a  lock  upon  the  crown»  which  they  permit 
to  grow  its  full  length.  They  sometimes  per- 
forate the  cartilage  of  the  nose,  in  which  they  hang 
a  drop,  similar  to  an  ear  drop,  and  bore  their  ears 
nearly  round  to  the  top,  in  which  they  place  a 
large  number  of  silver  ear-rings.  They  wear  a 
breech  flap  fastened  around  the  waist  with  a  belt ; 
a  pair  of  leggins,  and  shoes  or  moccasons.  These 
are  made  of  dressed  buffaloe  or  deer  skin,  and 
fancifully  worked  and  ornamented  with  lead  and 
porcupine  quills,  stained  with  different  colours. 
A  buflfaloe  robe,  which  is  the  skin  dressed  with 
the  hair  on,  is  worn  over  the  shoulders,  and 
serves  for  a  cloak  by  day,  and  for  a  b^d  and  cov- 
ering by  night.  In  the  summer  this  robe  is  laid 
by,  and  they  go  naked,  except  the  breech  flap  and 
leggins. 

The  women  are  large  and  well  proportioned, 
rather  inclined  to  corpulency;  theirfaces  oval; 
cheek  bones  somewhat  high  ;  but  the  features  are 
regular,  and  not  destitute  of  beauty.  Their  un- 
der garment  is  dressed  leather,  silk,  or  calico, 
without  sleoves,and  coming  down  below  the  knees. 
About  the  neck  it  is  decorated  with  a  large  num- 
oer  oi  siivci'  oroucncs.  i  nert  icg^uis  unci  uiuc- 
casons  are  similar  to  those  of  the  men.     Their 


118 

hair  is  long,  and  neatly  tied  up,  forming  a  club 
behind.  Broad  silver  clasps  are  worn  on  their 
arms,  wrists  and  ankles*  They  also,  like  the 
men,  wear  a  buffaloe  robct 

Their  villages  are  built  along  the  banks  of  the 
river.  The  houses  stand  in  two  rows,  on  a 
straight  line,  with  a  wide  street  between  them. 
They  build  their  houses  with  split  logs,  laid  up  in 
a  neat  manner,  and  cover  them  with  split  boards. 
They  are  generally  about  ten  or  twelve  feet  wide, 
and  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  long  ;  and  some  of 
the  chiefs  have  them  sixty  feet  in  length.  The 
height  is  from  eight  to  ten  feet;  and  having  no 
window  or  chimney,  they  have  an  aperture  at 
the  top  for  the  light  to  come  in,  and  the  smoke  to 
go  out.  They  have  only  one  door,  which  is 
usually  closed  with  a  buffaloe  skin.  These  peo- 
ple live  in  a  more  neat  and  cleanly  manner 
than  is  common  among  these  western  tribes. 

The  Osage  nation  claim  an  extensive  country 
for  their  hunting  ground,  and  do  not  admit  the 
other  nations  to  make  encroachments  upon  it.  It 
abounds  with  all  the  wild  game  common  to  this 
country  ;  such  us  the  elk,  buftaloe,  dear,bear,  wolf^ 
cabree,  or  antelope,  ground  hog,  beaver,  .  iter» 
and  mink. 

The  title  of  their  chiefs  is  hereditary.  The 
great  chief  assumes  authority  over  those  of  an  in- 
ferior grade ;  and  his   power  in  many  respects  is 


7    rm*»t^f%t' 


diSDOtlC*        But  h^     da**e   T^O*     «>nrran'«>     in    nnii 

tnterprize,  nor  make  war  or  peace,  withw>ut  calling 


ig  a  dub 
on  their 
like  the 


ks  of  the 
s,  on  a 
sn  them, 
aid  up  in 
t  boards. 
;et  widcy 

some  of 
h.  The 
iving  no 
rture  at 
moke  to 
vhich  is 
ese  peo- 

manner 
bes. 

country 
mil  the 
n  it.  It 
I  to  this 
ir,  wolf^ 
r,    .  iter> 


M 


0r  JJiJ^Sf^ni 


7  AA'TKtarifi^_'^ 


/•  The 
)f  an  in- 
pects  is 

r.  calling 


^H 

■i    ' 

'■.7 

1 

W  ' 

H 

I;    1 

■»>. 

1 

H 

a 

, 

' 

f 

H' 

if    . 

r 

^^H  I 

Hi 

• 

^^KflK 

1  ' 

\ 

• 

H|| 

■ 
1 

•-i^m 

M. 

; 

• 

1 

119 


H 


a  council  of  the  subordinate  chiefs  and  warriors. 
To  this  council  he  states  his  object,  and  explains 
his  views  and  intentions ;  and  if  a  general 
assent  be  not  given,  he  lays  aside  his  project. 

These  people  believe  in  a  supreme  power, 
Avhom  they  call  the  Great  Spirit.  To  him  they 
attribute  every  good  they  enjoy,  and  consider  it  as 
his  gift.  But  they  render  homage  to  another 
Spirit,  subordinate  to  the  Great  Spirit,  who  is  the 
author  o^  all  the  evil  and  misfortune  they  suffer. 
By  appeasing  his  wrath,  they  hope  to  escape  the 
troubles  with  which  he  might  be  disposed  to  visit 
them.  "  They  have  also  many  other  inferior  dei- 
ties, which  they  conceive  have  power  to  do  them 
good  or  evil.  They  believe,  if  they  are  faithful 
to  their  nation  and  kind  to  their  relatives,  good 
warriors  and  good  hunters,  that  when  they  die, 
they  shall  go  to  a  most  delightful  country,  which 
abounds  in  game  ;  where  there  will  be,  perpetual 
day  ;  a  bright  sun  and  clear  sky  j  when  they  will 
meet  their  old  friends  ;  and  where  they  will  enjoy 
every  pleasure  they  were  fond  of  here,  without  in- 
terruption. But  that  those  who  are  bad  here, 
especially  those  who  are  ungrateful  to  the  aged, 
when  they  die,  will  go  to  a  place  of  punishment, 
where  they  will  suffer  the  severest  privations,  and 
be  denied  every  thing  that  was  pleasant  or  desir- 
able in  this  life.  But  the  traders  say,  it  is  with 
great  difficulty  they  can  be  prevailed  upon  to  con- 
verse at  all  oti  these  subjects.  The  French  made 
repeated    attempts    to    introduce     Missionaries 


120 


among  them,  but  could  not  succeed.  There  is 
said  to  be  one  remarkable  trait  in  the  character  of 
the  Osage  India  .s,  in  which  they  differ,  perhaps^ 
from  all  other  tribes  ,•  they  are  extremely  averse 
to  ardent  spirit,  and  few  of  them  can  be  persuaded 
to  taste  it. 

-    Below  the  Great  Osage,   on  the  lyaters  of  the 
Little  Osage,   Saint  Francis  and  other  streams, 
are  a  number  of  scattered  bands  oi  Indians,  and 
two  or  three  considerable  villages.     These  bands 
were  principally  Indians,  who  were  formerly  out- 
casts   from  the    tribes  east  of   the    Mississippi. 
Numbers  have  since  joined  from  the  Delawares, 
Shawanoes,  Wayondott  and  other  tribes  towards 
the  lakes.     Their  warriors  are  said  to  be  five  or 
six  hundred.  They  have  sometimes  made  excur-. 
sions  and  done  mischief  on  the  Ohio  river,  but 
the  settlements,  on  the  Mississippi  have  suffered 
the  most  severely  by  their  depredations. 


CONCISE  ACCOUNT 


OF    THE 


INDIAN  NATIONS, 


WEST  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI,   TO  THE  ROCKY 


MOUNTAINS. 


ff 


If 


Little  has  been  known  of  these  nations  until 
very  lately.  The  following  information  is  prin- 
cipally derived  from  the  accounts  ^iven  of  them 
by  Captain  Lewis,  when  on  his  tour  to  the  western 
ocean,  communicated  to  the  President  of  the 
United  States  ;  and  by  Dr.  John  Sibley,  in  his 
communications,  from  Natchetoches,  to  the  Sec- 
retary of  war.  The  advantages  these  gentlemen 
possessed  for  obtaining  knowledge  of  their  names, 
situations,  numbers,  and  other  circumstances 
respecting  them,  have  been  better  than  those  of 
any  others  ;  and  their  accounts  are  undoubtedly 
the  best  that  can  at  present  be  obtained. 

The  Osage  nation  has  already  been  described. 

The  nation  residing  next  to  the  Osage,  on  the 

vvuicrs   ui    liic  xTiioouuri,    is  tile  jvanzas.      incir 

village  is  on  the  Kanzas  river,  about  eighty  leagues 

11 


ih 


t-' 


from  its  mouth.  This  river  comes  from  the 
south,  meanders,  for  a  great  distance,  through  a 
fine,  rich  country,  and  is  two  hundred  and  fifty- 
yards  wide,  where  it  enters  the  Missouri.  The 
Kanzas  have  about  three  hundred  warriors  and 
thirteen  hundred  souls.  They  are  Commonly  at 
war  with  all  nations,  except  the  Ottoes,  with 
■whom  they  have  intermarriages.  The  limits  of 
the  country  they  claim  is  unknown ;  they  hunt 
on  the  upper  part  of  the  Kanzas  and  Arkansas 
rivers.  They  live  in  their  villages,  from  about 
the  fifteenth  of  March  to  fifteenth  of  May,  and 
again  from  the  fifteenth  of  August  to  the  fifteenth 
of  October  ;  the  rest  of  the  year  they  devote  to 
hunting.  At  present,  they  are  a  dissolute, 
lawless,  banditti ;  frequently  plundering  traders, 
and  committing  depredation  on  people  ascending 
and  descending  the  Missouri. 

The  Missouri  nation  live  on  the  south  side 
of  the  river  Plate,  fifteen  leagues  from  its  mouth. 
They  are  the  remnant  of  the  most  numerous  na- 
tion, inhabiting  the  Missouri  when  first  known  to 
the  French.  Their  ancient  principal  village  was 
situated  in  an  extensive  plain,  on  the  northern 
bank  of  the  Missouri,  just  below  the  mouth  of 
Grand  river.  Frequent  wars  with  the  Saukees 
and  Renars,  and  repeated  attacks  of  the  small 
pox,  have  reduced  them  to  about  eighty  warriors, 
and  a  state  of  dependance  on  the  Ottoes.  They 
are  about  three  hundred  souls.  They  have  a  jast 
claim  to  an  extensive  and  fertile  country,  and  yet 


Its 


reside  in  the  same  village  with   the  Ottoes,  and 
accompany  them  in  their  hunting  excursions.  • 

The  Ottoes,  with  whom  the  Missouries  reside, 
were  descendants  from^that  nation,  but  now  view 
them  as  their  inferiors,  and  sometimes  treat  them 
with  abuse.  They  have  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  warriors,  and  five  hundred  souls ;  claim 
no  exclusive  possession,  and  hunt  on  the  Saline 
and  Nimmehaw  rivers,  and  the  plains  which  are 
westward  of  them.  Their  hunting  and  cultivating 
the  ground  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Kanzas  and 
Osage.  They  raise  corn,  beana,  squashes,  pump- 
kins, and  tobacco.  These  two  nations  are  at  war 
with  the  Great  and  Little  Osage,  Mahas,  Poncars, 
Sioux,  Kanzas,  and  Loups  ;  and  at  peace  with 
the  Panis  proptr,  Saukees,  ai  i  Ranars. 

The  Panis  proper,  reside  on  the  same  river, 
fifteen  leagues  further  up,  on  the  south  side* 
Their  number  of  warriors  is  four  hundred,  and 
about  sixteen  hundred  people.  Their  hunting 
ground  extends  over  fertile,  well  watered  plains, 
interspersed  with  groves  of  timber,  especially 
along  the  water  courses,  and  abounding  with 
game.  They  are  friendly  and  hospitable  to  white 
people  ;  pay  great  respect  to  traders,  with  whom 
they  are  punctual  in  the  payment  of  their  debts. 
They  cultivate  corn,  beans,  melons,  pumpkins, 
and  tobacco.  They  are  at  war  with  the  Great 
and  Little  Osage.  Panis  pique,  Kanzas,  La  Play, 

QiriMv    anA  Vt'in^rcta  •    anrl  nf  npfirp  wirVi  tlit»  T.nnns. 

Mahas,  Poncars,  Ottoes,  and  Ayauwais. 


124 


■ 


Will 


The  Panis  republican,  or  Big  Paunch,  is  a 
band  which  has  separated  from  the  Panis  proper, 
and  established  a  village  on  a  branch  of  the  Kan- 
zas  river ;  but  being  harassed  by  their  trouble- 
some neighbours,  the  Kanzas,  they  have  united 
themselves  again  with  the  Panis  proper.  They 
have  three  hundred  warriors,  and  fourteen  hun- 
dred souls.  . 

Another  branch  of  the  Panis  proper,  is  the 
Panis  Loups,  or  Wolves.  They  live  on  Wolf 
river,  which  enters  into  the  river  Plate.  They 
hunt  on  Wolf  river  above  their  village,  and  on 
the  river  Plate,  between  Wolf  and  the  river  Cora 
de  Cerf,  or  Elkhorn.  They  are  rarely  visited  by 
traders,  and  carry  their  firs  and  peltry  to  the  vil- 
lage of  Panis  proper.  They  cultivate  corn,  beans, 
and  other  vegetables.  They  have  two  hundred, 
and  eighty  warriors,  and  are  at  war  with  all  other 
nations  near  their  excursions,  except  the  Panis 
proper  and  Panis  republican  or  Big  Paunch. 
They  consist  of  about  one  thousand  people. 

The  Mahas  was  a  powerful  nation  until  lately, 
residing  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Missouri,  two 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Plate  river.  They  could  boast  seven  hundred 
warriors,  were  warlike,  and  a  terror  to  the*  neigh- 
bours. But  in  the  autumn  of  1802,  they  were 
visited  by  the  small  pox,  which  made  such  rav- 
ages among  them,  as  to  reduce  their  warriors  to 

Jess  than  thrpp  hnnHi-pH.  unrl  tn  9Ur^^^^  civ  Vti\nAfofl 

souls.     This    distressing  calamity  induced  them 


125 


to  burn  their  village  and  become  a  wandering 
people.  They  were  then  deserted  by  traders  ; 
and  a  deficiency  of  arms  and  ammunitions,  invited 
aggression  from  their  neighbours,  which  further 
reduced  them  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  warriors. 
They  rove  principally  on  the  head  waters  of 
Wolf  river,  and  on  the  river  Quicurre,  or  Rapid 
river.  This  country  is  high,  level,  and  open, 
well  watered-,  and  a  good  soil.  They  are  good 
hunters,  and  well  disposed  towards  the  whites. 
They  were  iaici>'  attack'^d  by  the  Tetons  Bois 
Brule,  who  killed  and  took  about  sixty  of  them. 

Poncars  are  the  remnant  of  a  nation,  once^  res- 
pectable for  its  numbers.  Their  former  residence 
was  on  a  branch  of  the  Red  river,  of  Lake  Win- 
nipie ;  but  being  oppressed  by  the  Sioux,  they 
removed  to  the  southward,  and  took  up  their  res- 
idence on  Poncar  river,  west  of  the  Missouri, 
where  they  built  and  fortified  a  village,  and  re- 
mained some  years.  At  length  their  implacable 
enemy,  the  Sioux,  pursued  them ;  reduced  them 
to  about  fifty  warriors,  and  two  hundred  people  5 
and  compelled  them  to  join  and  reside  with  the 
Mahas,  whose  language  they  speak. 

Th'^e  Ricaras  are  the  remains  of  ten  large  tribes 
of  the  Panis,  who  have  been  reduced  by  the  small 
pox  and  the  Sioux,  to  about  five  hundrcl  warri- 
ors, and  two  thousand  souls.  They  live  in  for- 
tified villages^  claim  no  land,  except  that  on  which 
their  villages  stand,  and  the  fields  they  improve  ; 
and  hunt  immediately  in  their  own  neighbour- 
It* 


126 


hood.  The  country  in  every  direction  around 
them,  for  several  hundred  miles,  is  entirely  bare 
of  timber,  except  on  the  water  courses  and  steep 
declivities  of  hills,  where  it  is  sheltered  from  the  . 
ravages  of  fire.  The  remains  of  the  ancient  vil- 
lages of  these  people  are  to  be  seen  on  many  parts 
of  the  Missouri,  f.om  the  mouth  of  the  Tetone 
river,  to  the  Mandans.  The  rapacious  Sioux 
Tetons,  rob  them  of  their  horses,  plunder  their 
gardens  and  fields,  and  sometimes  murder  them 
without  opposition,  claim  the  country  around 
them,  although  they  are  the  oldest  inhabitants, 
and  treat  them  as  merely  tenants  at  will.  Still 
they  maintain  a  partial  trade  with  their  oppressors, 
the  Tetons,  to  whom  they  barter  horses,  corn, 
beans,  ard  a  species  of  tobacco  which  they  culti- 
vate, and  receive  in  return  guns,  ammunition, 
kettles,  axes,  and  other  articles^  brought  from  the 
river  Saint  Peters.  The  Ricaras  obtain  these 
hors':s  and  mules  from  their  western  neighbours, 
who  frequently  visit  them  for  the  purpose  of 
trafiic. 

The  Mandans,  consisting  of  three  hundred  and 
fifty  warriors,  and  twelve  hundred  and  fifty  inhab- 
itants, are  the  most  friendly,  and  well  disposed 
Indians  who  live  on  the  Missouri.  They  are 
brave,  humane,  and  hospitable.  Several  years 
ago  they  lived  in  six  villages,  about  forty  miles 
below  their  present  towns.  From  repeated  visit- 
ations of  the  small  pox,  and  the  frequent  attacks 
of  the  Sioux,  they  have   been  reduced  to  their 


12/ 

present  number.  They  live  in  fortified  villages  ; 
claim  no  particular  tract  of  country  ;  hunt  only 
in  their  own  neighbourhood ;  raise  corn,  beans, 
melons^  squashes,  pumpkins,  and  tobacco.  They 
barter  these  articles,  and  horses  and  mules,  with 
their  neighbours,  the  Assinniboins,  for  guns,  am- 
munition, axes,  kettles,  and  many  other  articles, 
which  are  purchased  of  the  Canadian  traders,  on 
the  Assinniboin  river.  The  traders  themselves 
frequently  bring  their  merchandise  to  them.  The 
Mandans,  again,  exchange  the  articles  thus  ob- 
tained, for  horses,  leather  tents,  furs,  and  peltry, 
with  the  Crow  Indians,  and  many  other  nations, 
who  visit  them  for  the  purpose  of  traffic.  The 
trade  carried  on,  at  these  villages,  gives  them 
som«  resemblance  of  mercantile  towns.  They 
reside  on  both  sides  of  the  Missouri,  about  sixteen 
hundred  miles  from  its  mouth. 

The  Ah-wah-ha-wa,  or  Gens  de  Soulier,  is  a 
small  nation,  very  little  different  from  the 
Mandans,  excepting  that  they  carry  an  a  constant 
and  unjust  warfare  with  the  defenceless  Snake 
Indians.  They  liave  fifty  warriors,  and  two  hun- 
dred inhabitants.  Their  village  is  only  three 
miles  above  the  Mandans,  on  the  south  side  of 
the  Missouri.  They  claim  to  have  been  a  part 
of  the  Crow  Indians,  whom  they  still  ackno.yl- 
edge  as  relation,  but  have  resided  on  the  Mis» 
souri,  as  long  back  as  their  tradition  extends. 

The  Minetares,  or  Gross  Ventres,  is  a  large 
nation,  consisting  of  six  hundred  warriors,  and 


128 


two  thousand  five  hundred  soub.  They  claim 
no  particular  country,  nor  assign  themselves  any 
limits ;  their  tradition  ib  that  they  have  always 
resided  in  their  present  vihagcs.  Their  customs^ 
manners,  and  dispositions,  are  similar  to  the 
Mandans.  Their  villages  are  on  both  sides  of 
Knife  river,  near  the  Missouri,  five  miles  above 
the  Mandans.  On  account  of  the  scarcity  of 
wood,  they  leave  their  villages  in  the  cold  season, 
and  reside  in  large  bands,  in  camps,  on  different 
parts  of  the  Missouri,  as  high  up  as  Yellow  Stone 
river,  and  west  of  their  villages,  about  Turtle 
mountain.  These  people  have  suffered  by  the 
small  pox,  but  have  been  able  to  resist  the  attacks 
of  the  Sioux. 

The  Ayauvvais  nat  -  ^  .side  forty  leagues  up 
the  river  Demoin,  and  consist  of  two  hundred 
warriors,  and  about  eight  hundred  souls.  1  hey 
are  descendants  from  the  ancient  Missouri,  and 
claim  the  country  west  of  them  to  the  Missouri, 
and  to  the  boundary  of  the  Saukees  and  Foxes ; 
are  a  turbulent  savage  people,  who  frequently 
abuse  their  traders,  and  commit  depredations  on 
those  who  are  ascending  and  descending  the  Mis- 
souri. 

Saukees  and  Ranars  or  Foxes,  are  two  nations 
so  nearly  consolidated  into  one,  that  they  may  be 
considered  as  the  same  people.  They  speak  the 
same  language,   and  live   near  together,   on  the 


%trDat'    o 


m^£A    ^^v 


1VT«ouvaot«^*%i         fw\A       ntMf\ri**tAri       om*^ 


'rr  » 


forty  leagues  above  Saint  Louis*     Formerly  they 


1?9 


lived  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi,  and  still 
claim  the  land  between  the  Ouiseonsin  and  Illi- 
nois rivers.  They  frequently  hunt  west  of 
them,  towards  the  Missouri,  but  consider  both 
sides  of  the  Mississippi  their  hunting  ground. 
The  Saukees  have  about  five  hundred  warriors, 
and  two  thousand  souls ;  the  Foxes  three  hundred 
warriors^  and  twelve  hundred  souls.  They  raise 
large  quantities  of  corn,  beans,  and  melons.  They 
are  extremely  friendly  to  the  whites,  but  implaca- 
ble enemies  to  those  Indians  with  whom  they  are 
at  war. 

The  Sioux  is  a  large  nation,  but  divided  into 
many  independent  bands.  They  retain  the  com- 
mon appellation  of  Sioux,  but  each  band  has  its 
appropriate  name.  The  number  of  warriors  is 
two  thousand  five  hundred  and  ninety,  and  seven 
thousand  six  hundred  and  ten  souls.  They  are 
roving  bands,  without  any  fixed  habitations  for 
any  considerable  time,  and  are  generally  at  war 
with  most  of  the  other  Indian  nations.  They 
claim,  as  their  hunting  ground,  a  very  extensive 
country,  on  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  and  Mis- 
sissippi.    The  following  are  the  principal  bands. 

Wahpatone  baad  rove  on  the  northwest  side 
of  Saint  Peters,  to  the  mouth  of  Chippeway  river, 
and  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  in- 
cluding the  Crow-wing  river.  Their  lands  are 
fertile   and   generally  well  timbered.     They  are 


*u,,:-  ..:ii.„. 


.u:i,.  *u„  ^. 


lin^w,    Villus  liic  liuucrs 


are  with  thera,  which  is  commonly  from  Octobet, 


130 


to  March ;  treat  them  with  respect,  and  seldom 
attempt  to  rob  them. 

Mindawawarcarton  band  extend  their  hunting 
ground  from  the  mouth  of  the  Saint  Peters,  to 
the  Crow-wing  river,  on  both  sides  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. They  live  in  tents  of  dressed  leather, 
which  they  transport  by  means  of  horses  and  dogs, 
and  ramble  from  place  to  place  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  year ;  an?l  yet  are  the  only  band  of 
the  Sioux,  who  cultivate  corn,  beans,  and  other 
vegetables.  Their  land  is  level,  fertile,  and  well 
wat  red.  To  their  own  traders  hey  are  friendly, 
but  inveterate  to  those  who  carry  merchandise  to 
their  enemies,  the  Chippeways. 

Wahpacoota  band  rove  in  the  country  west  of 
Saint  Peters,  from  a  place  called  Hardwood  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Yellow  Medicine  river :  never 
stationary  only  when  their  traders  are  with  them, 
which  is  not  at  any  fixed  time  f  a  great  portion, 
of  their  country  is  open  plains,  and  tolerably 
fertile.  They  barter  the  articles  they  receive 
from  the  traders,  with  the  Yanktons  and  Tetons, 
who  live  west  of  thein,  for  horses,  robes,  and 
leather  tents  or  lodges. 

Sissatone  band  hunt  on  Saint  Peters  and  upper 
portions  of  Red  river  of  Lake  Winnipie,  which 
is  a  level,  plain^  fertile  country,  free  of  stones, 
and  intersected  with  small  lakes.  It  abounds 
with  fur  animals,  the  beaver,  otter,  and  marten, 
vvniCii  ctiauics  liiciii  lu  jjurcnasc  luore  mercnaii- 
dise,   in  proportion  to  their  number,   than  their 


131 


ere  n  fill" 


neighbours.  An  Indian  fair  is  attended  in  the 
month  of  May,  at  a  place  agreed  upon,  on  the 
waters  of  James  river,  where  this  band  repair  and 
meet  the  Tetons,  Yanktons  of  the  North,  and 
Ahnah.  Here  a  considerable  traffic  is  carried  on, 
and  merchandise  exchanged  for  horses  and  other 
articles.  These  people  are  devoted  to  the  inter- 
ests of  their  traders. 

Yanktons  of  the  North  ihhabit  a  country  which 
is  almost  one  entire  plain,  destitute  of  wood,  but 
a  good  soil  and  well  watered. 

Yanktons  Ahnah  are  considered  the  best  dis- 
posed Sioux,  who  rove  on  the  banks  of  the  Mis- 
souri ;  but  they  will  suffer  no  trader  to  ascend  the 
river  if  they  can  prevent  it :  they  arrest  the  pro- 
gress of  all  they  meet  with,  and  generally  compel 
them  to  sell  their  merchandise  at  a  price  very 
nearly  what  they  themselves  fix  upon  it ;  but  they 
do  not  often  commit  any  other  acts  of  violence 
on  the  whites.  Their  country  is  very  fertile, 
consisting  of  wood  land  and  prairie. 

Tetons  Bois  Brule,Tetons  Okandandas,  Tetons 
Minnakineazzo,  and  Tetons  Sahone  are  four 
bands  which  rove  over  a  country,  almost  entirely 
level,  where  a  tree  is  scarcely  to  be  seen,  unless 
it  be  by  water  courses,  or  steep  declivities  of  a 
small  number  of  hills.  It  is  from  this  country 
that  the  Missouri  derives  most  of  its  colouring 
matter ;  tlie  earth  is  strongly  impregnated  with 
glauber  salts,  aiium,  copperas,  and  sulphur,  and 
when  saturated  with  water,  large  bodies  of  the 


m 


132 


hills  are  precipilated  into  the  river.  On  this  ac- 
count the  waters  of  the  Missouri  have  a  purga- 
tive effect  on  those  who  are  not  accustomed  to 
use  them,  f  hese  four  bands  are  the  pirates  of 
the  Missouri,  and  considered  the  vilest  miscre- 
ants of  the  savage  race.  They  receive  their  reg- 
ular supply  of  merchandise  from  the  river  Saint 
Peters,  and  treat  the  traders  on  the  Missouri 
with  the  utmost  contempt,  whom  they  never  fail 
to  plunder,  when  it  is  in  their  power.  Supplica- 
tion, or  submission  renders  them  the  more  rapa- 
cious. They  say,  the  worse  they  treat  the  tra- 
ders, the  more  merchandise  they  will  bring 
them,  and  will  dispose  of  their  articles  on  the 
better  terms. 

The  Chyennes,  la  Chien  Indians  are  the  rem- 
nant of  a  nation  once  respectable  for  their  num- 
bers ;  formerly  resided  on  a  branch  of  Red  river 
of  Lake  Winnipie,  which  still  is  called  la  Chieon, 
or  Dog  river.  Oppressed  by  the  Sioux,  they  re- 
moved to  the  west  side  oC  the  Missouri,  about 
fifteen  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Warricunne 
creek,  where  they  built  and  fortified  a  village, 
but  being  pursued  by  their  ancient  enemies,  the 
Sioux,  they  fled  to  the  Black  Hills,  about  the  head 
of  Chien  river,  where  they  wander  in  quest  of 
the  bufFal6e,  having  no  fixed  residence.  Their 
number  of  warriors  is  computed  to  be  about  three 
hundred,  and  about  twelve  hundred  souls.  They 
do  not  cultivate,  ^but  bring  to  market  buftaloc 


153 


robes  of  the  best  quality,  and  are  well  disposed 
towards  the  whites. 

The  We-te-pa-ha-to  or  Wetepahatoes  are  a 
wandering  nation,  live  on  the  Paduca  fork  of  the 
river  Plate,  in  an  open  country ;  and  raise  a 
great  number  of  horses,  which  they  barter  to  the 
Ricaras,  Mandans  and  other  nations,  for  articles 
of  European  Manufactures.  Including  the 
Kiawas  who  often  live  with  them,  they  have  about 
two  hundred  warriors,  and  seven  hundred  souls. 
They  are  a  well  disposed  people,  are  at  peace 
with  all  their  wandering  neighbours,  to  the  west, 
and  particularly  with  the  Ricaras,  Mandans, 
Minetares,  and  Ahwahhaways,  whom  they  occa- 
sionally visit  for  the  purpose  of  traffic,  but  have  a 
defensive  war  with  the  Sioux. 

The  Kiawas  do  not  materially  differ  from  the 
Wetepahatoes,  who  live  near,  and  often  with  them, 
in  perfect  friendship. 

The  Kenenavish,  or  Gens  de  Vache,  reside  on 
the  heads  of  the  Paduca's  forks  of  the  River  Plate, 
and  on  the  forks  of  the  Chien  river.  They  rove 
in  an  open  country,  like  that  of  the  Wetepaha- 
toes, and  carry  on  the  same  traffic.  Their  num- 
ber is  about  four  hundred  warriors,  and  fifteen 
hundred  souls. 

The  Staetan,  or  Kites,  reside  on  the  head  wa- 
ters of  the  Chiea  river,  and  frequently  with  the 
KenenavisI^ ;  and   very  nearly  resemble  them  in 


warriors,  and  four  hundred  people. 
12 


m 


134 


The  Kata  is  a  [small  nation,  who  have  only 
about  seventy-five  warriors,  and  three  hundred 
souls.  They  live  between  the  head  waters  of  the 
north  and  south  forks  of  the  River  Chien. 

The  Nemausin,  or  allebome,  are  a  small  peo- 
ple, having  about  fift^  v;  \rrior8,  and  two  hun- 
dred souls,  and  are  on  the  head  waters  of  north 
fork  of  Chien  river.  The  principal  difference 
between  this  nation  and  the  Wetepahatoes,  Kia- 
was,  Staetan,  and  Kataha  Is,  that  they  never  visit 
the  Ricaras,  but  carry  on  defensive  war  with 
them  and  the  Sioux. 

The  Dotame  is  a  still  smaller  nation,  having 
only  thirty  warriors,  and  about  one  hundred 
and  twenty  people,  inhabiting  the  heads  of  the 
river  Chien.  They  wander  over  an  open  country ; 
raise  great  numbers  of  horses  and  mules ;  are  a 
friendly,  well  disposed  people. 

The  Castahana  is  a  larger  nation,  who  live  be- 
tween the  sources  of  the  Padoca*s  forks  of  the 
rivers  Plate  and  Yellow  Stone.  They  have 
thirteen  hundred  warriors,  and  five  thousand 
souls.  Like  the  Dotame,  rove  in  an  open  country, 
and  raise  great  numbers  of  horses  and  mules  ; 
are  friendly  and  peaceable,  but  have  a  defensive 
war  with  the  Sioux  and  Assinniboins. 

The  Kee-hat-sa,  or  Crow  Indians,  or  Gens-des 
Corbeau  is  large?  having  nine  hundred  warriorsi, 
and  three  thousand  five  hundred  people.  They 
live  on  each  side  of  the  river  Yellow  Stone,  about 
the  mouth  of  Big-horn  river.    Their  country  is 


135 


said  to  be  fertile,  well  watered,  and  in  most  parts 
well  timbered.  These  people  are  divided  into 
four  bands,  called  by  themselves,  Ahah-ar-ro-pir- 
no-pah,  Noo-ta,  Pa-rees-car,  and  E-hart-sar. 
They  annually  visit  the  Mandans,  Minetares, 
and  Ahwahaways,  to  whom  they  barter  horses, 
mules,  leather  lodges,  and  many  articles  of  Indian 
apparel,  for  which  they  receive  guns,  ammunition, 
axes,  kettles,  awls,  and  other  European  manu- 
factures. When  they  return  to  their  country, 
they  are,  in  turn,  visited  by  the  Paunch  and 
Snake  Indians,  to  whom  they  barter  most  of  the 
articles  they  have  obtained  from  the  nations  on 
the  Missouri,  for  horses  and  mules,  of  which 
those  nations  have  a  greater  abundance  than 
themselves.  They  also  obtain  of  the  Snake  In- 
dians, bridle  bits,  blankets  and  some  other  arti- 
cles, which  those  Indians  purchase  of  the  Span- 
iards. 

The  Al-la-ka-we-ah,  or  Paunch  Indians,  or 
Gens  de  Pause,  reside  on  each  side  of  the  Yellow 
Stone  river,  near  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
heads  of  the  Big-horn  river.  They  have  eight 
hundred  warriors,  and  two  thousand  three  hundred 
souls.  These  are  said  to  be  a  peaceable,  well 
disposed  nation.  Their  country  is  variegated, 
consisting  of  mountains,  vallies,  p)  ..ns,  and  wood 
lands,  irregularly  interspersed.  These  people,  as 
well  as  the  Crow  Indians,  inhabit  a  country, 
which  produces  an  abundance  of  the  r 


^ 1. 


I 


136 


.lyi 


Lie  furred  animals.  Tht  y  are  rovers,  and  have  no 
idea  of  exclusive  right  to  the  soil. 

The'Assinniboin  nation  consists  of  three  bands, 
who,  like  the  bands  of  the  Sioux,  are  entirely  in- 
dependent, one  of  the  other  ;  they  claim  a  national 
affinity,  and  never  go  to  war  with  each  other.. 
They  are  the  descendants  of  the  Siou:;?,  and  par- 
take of  their  turbulent  and  faithless  disposition  ; 
frequently  plundering,  and  sometimes  murdering 
their  own  traders.  The  name  by  which  this  na- 
tion is  generally  known,  was  borrowed  from  the 
Chippeways,  who  call  them  Assinniboin^  which 
signifies  Stone  Sioux^  and  are  sometimes  called 
Stone  Indians. 

Manetopa  band,  or  Gens  des  Canoe,  live  on 
Mouse  river,  between  the  Assinniboin  and  the 
Missouri.  They  have  two  hundred  warriors,  and  - 
seven  hundred  and  fifty  souls.  They  do  not  cul- 
tivate ;  but  dispose  of  buffaloe  robes,  tallow, 
dried  and  pounded  mint,  and  grease,  skins  of  the 
large  and  small  fox,  small  and  large  wolves,  ante- 
lopes, or  cabree,  and  elk  in  great  abundance  ;  some 
brown,  white,  and  grizzly  bear,  deer  and  lynx. 

Oseegah  band,  or  Gens  des  Tee,  consist  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  warriors,  and  eight  hundred 
and  fifty  people  ;  reside  about  the  mouth  of  the 
Little  Missouri,  and  an  the  Assinniboin,  at  the 
mouth  of  Lapt'IIe  river.  These  people  do  noth- 
ing at  cultivation,  although  the  country  in  which 
they  rove  is  tolerably  fertile,  open,  and  free  of 
stone.     They  traffic  in  buffaloe  meat,  dried  and 


137 


pounded,   and   grease  in  bladders  :  the  skins  of 
wolves,  a  few  beaver  and  buftaloe  robes^-?  - 

Mahtopanato  band,  or  Gens  de  Grand  Diable, 
rove  on  the  Missouri,  about  the  mouth  of  the 
White  Earth  river,  and  on  the  head  of  Assinni- 
,boin,  at  the  mouth  of  Capelle  river.  Their  num- 
ber of  warriors  is  about  four  hundred  and  fifty, 
and  sixteen  hundred  people.  Their  traffic  i» 
nearly  the  same  with  the  other  bands. 

The  Chippeways,  or  Ojibaway  are  divided 
into  three  principal  bands,  which  arc  distinguished 
by 

Chippeways  of  Leach  /orie,-who  reside  on  an 
island  in  a  small  lake,  called  Leach  lake,  formed 
by  the  Mississippi  river.  They  claim  the 
country  on  both  sides  the  Mississippi,  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Crow-wing  river  to  its  source,  and 
extending  west  of  the  Mississippi,  to  the  land 
claimed  by  the  SiouK,  with  whom  they  still  con- 
tend for  dominion ;  and  the  country  east  of  the 
Mississippi,  as  far  as  Lake  Superior,  including 
the  waters  of  the  River  Saint  Louis.  They  con- 
sist of  four  hundred  warriors,  and  sixteen  hun- 
dred souls.  They  do  not  cultivate  the  land,  but 
live  principally  on  the  wild  rice,  which  they  pro^ 
cure  in  great  abundance  on  the  borders  of  Leach 
lake,  and  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi.  They 
trade  with  beaver,  otter,  black  bear,  rackoon, 
marten,  mink,    fisher   and  deer  skins.      Their 

il'liuiUorS  »**iV^»  iiwii  »*»««!*<«»«*   '^j     ••••S3  wit«*  isi-  uj-.tss 


pox. 


1%*^ 


136 


Chippeways  of  Red  lake  consist  of  about  two 
hundred  warriors,  and  seven  hundred  people, 
they  live  on  the  head  of  the  Mississippi,  and  about 
Red  lake.  They  hunt  the  same  animals  as  the 
preceding  band,  and  make  and  sell  bark  canoes. 

Chippeways  of  Pembena  river  reside  on  the 
Red  river,  of  Lake  Winnipie,  and  about  the 
mouth  of  Pembena  river.  The  number  of  this 
band  is  about  one  hundred  warriors,  and  three 
hundred  and  fifty  souls.  They  hunt  principally 
beaver,  and  kill  some  wolverine  and  lynx,  live  by- 
hunting,  and  do  not  claim  any  particular  extent 
of  ground.  The  Chippeways  are  well  disposed 
towards  the  whites,  but  excessively  fond  of  spir- 
itors  liquors. 

Algonquins  consisting  of  two  bands ; 

Algonquins  of  Rat7iy  lake  are  computed  to* 
have  one  hundred  warriors,  and  three  hundred 
souls.  They  live  about  Rainy  hke.  Rainy 
lake  river  and  the  Lake  of  the  Woods.  They  live 
very  much  in  detached  small  parties ;  are  well 
disposed  towards  the  whites,  and  deal  principally 
in  birch  canoes. 

Algonquins  of  the  Portage  de  Prairie  have  two 
hundred  warriors,  and  about  six  hundred  people. 
They  are  emigrants  from  the  Lake  of  the  Woods, 
and  live  in  a  low,  flat  country,  on  Red  river,  and 
the  Assinniboins,  where  there  is  an  abundance  of 


game* 

I    \\t^      m      n«>«o^4k«-k  tf^Art __ 

^  =-"-•  -_•£.-!  i=v-«ii-w-vc,  \ji  xi.ijjoiciiau3,  ur  v^rca  In- 
dians, are  a  wandering  nation,   on  the  heads  of 


^-  i/-_:_4. 

us    Xki:i3lCii*iU3. 


139 


Assinniboin,  and  towards  the  Saskashawan  river  ; 
do  not  cultivate,  but  take  and  traffic  in  beaver, 
otter,  lynx,  wolverine,  mink,  marten,  wolf,  small 
fox  or  kitts,  dressed  elk,  and  moose  deer  skins. 
They  have  three  hundred  warriors,  and  one 
thousand  souls.  Their  language  differs  but  little 
from  the  Chippeways,  and  have  probably  an  affin- 
ity to  that  nation.  These  people  sometimes  visit 
Fort  Dauphin  mountains ;  are  not  esteemed 
good  beaver  hunters ;  are  well  disposed  to  the 
whites,  and  treat  their  traders  with  respect. 

The  A-lan-sar,  or  Fall  Indians,  are  supposed 
to  have  six  hundred  and  sixty  warriors,  and  xwo 
thousand  five  hundred  people ;  reside  on  the 
south  fork  of  the  Saskashawan  river,  and  streams 
supposed  to  be  branches  of  the  Missouri.  They 
trade  with  the  northwest  company ;  the  country 
over  which  they  rove  is  net  much  known. 

The  Cattanahaws  is  a  wandering  nation,  near 
the  Fall  Indians  ;  their  number  is  not  aaser- 
tained.        ^i  4    . 

The  Tut-see-was  or  Flat-head  Indians  live  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  on  waters 
supposed  to  run  into  the  Columbia  river.  The 
most  that  is  known  of  the  Flat-heads,  is  from  the 
Minetares,  or  Grossventres,  who  are  at  war  with 
them,  and  often  take  prisoners.  They  say  that 
this  nation  resides  in  one  village  on  the  west  side 
of  a  large  and  rapid  river,  which  runs  from  south 
10  noi  ih,  at  the  foot  of  Rocky  mountains.     Their 


140 


mumber  is  not  ascertained  ;  are  a  timid,  inofifen- 
-.ive  people,  nnd  possess  an  abundance  of  horses. 

The  Aliatans  are  divided  into  three  bands;  of 
which  there  are  several  subdivisions* 

Aliatans,  So-so-na,  Snake  Indiana^  or  Gens  des 
Serpent,  are  a  very  numerous,  well  disposed  peo- 
ple, inhabiting  the  Rocky  mountains  on  the  head 
of  the  Missouri,  Yellow  Stone,  and  Plate  rivers. 
This  band  is  divided  into  three  large  tribes,  who 
wander  at  a  considerable  distance  from  each 
other ;  and  are  called  by  themselves,  So-so-na, 
So-so-bu-bar,  and  I-a-kar.  A  part  of  these  In- 
dians live  at,  and  near  the  falls  of  the  Missouri. 
They  raise  a  number  of  horses  and  muks,  and 
often  s.eal  them  from  the  nations  who  Jive  east 
of  them.  These  they  sell  to  the  Crow  Indians  j 
they  also  carr>  on  a  partial  trade  with  Spaniards, 
from  whom  they  receive  many  articles  of  cloth- 
ing and  ironmongery,  but  the  Spaniards  never 
supply  them  with  warlike  instruments.  Their 
numbers  are  not  known,  but  are  numerous. 

Aliatans  of  the  West,  A-li-a-ta,  live  among  the 
Rocky  mountains,  and  on  the  plains  at  the  heads 
of  the  Plate  and  Arkansas  rivers.  They  have 
more  intercourse  with  the  Spaniards  of  New 
Mexico,  than  the  Snake  Indians,  and  receive 
many  articles  of  merchandise  from  them  ;  but 
the  Spaniards  take  the  precaution  not  to  furnish 
them  with  arms,  and  yet,  in  their  unarmed  state, 
tney  irequcntiy  coruniit  hosiillilcs.  Tlicy  arc 
said  to  be  very  numerous,  but  the  number  uft- 


141 


known ;  are  a  warlike  people,  though  badly 
armed.  Thc}  have  large  numbers  of  horses, 
asses,  and  mules,  and  considerable  quantities  of 
bufFaloe,  deer,  elk,  black  bear,  antelope,  and  large 
horses,  as  well  as  the  skins  of  many  animals  of 
the  fur  kind. 

Aliatans,  La  Plays^  principally  inhabit  the  rich 
plains,  from  the  head  of  the  Arkansas,  embracing 
the  heads  of  Red  river,  and  extending  to  the 
mountains  on  the  borders  of  Ntyr  Mexico.  They 
possess  no  fire  arms,  but  are  warlike  and  brave  ; 
for  the  Spaniards  fear  these  people,  and  take  care 
not  to  furnish  them  with  the  implements  of  war. 
Their  country  abounds  with  wild  horses,  and 
raise  immense  numbers  of  horses,  asses,  and 
mules  themselves.  The  number  of  these  people 
is  great,  but  not  ascertained.  These,  as  well  as 
all  the  other  Aliatans,  are  wandering  people, 
and  have  no  fixed  place  of  residence. 

The  Caddo,  or  Caddoques,  residing  on  Red 
river,  have  already  been  mentioned.  These  peo- 
ple, some  years  ago,  left  their  ancient  villages, 
called  Caddo  old  towns,  and  settled  on  another 
part  of  Red  river,  nearer  to  Natchitoches,  where 
they  were  visited  with  sickness,  particularly  t^e 
small  pox  and  measles,  by  which  nearly  one  half 
of  them  died.  They  had  the  small  pox  in  the 
winter  season,  and  as  soon  as  the  eruption  ap- 
peared, they  plunged  into  the  water,  which  often 
proved  fiUal,  in  a  few  hours.  The  number  of 
warriors   of  the  ancient   Caddo  is  reduced  to 


142 


about  one  hundred,  who  are  viewed  as  a  distin- 
guished military  order  of  men ;  they  have  many 
old  men  and  strangers,  who  live  amongst  them, 
amounting  to  nearly  an  equal  number  with  the 
Caddos.  This  nation  has  great  influence  over 
the  Yattassees,  Nandakoes,  Nabadaches,  Inies, 
Nagogdoches,  Keychies,  Adaize,  and  Natchito- 
ches, who  all  speak  the  Caddo  language,  look  up 
to  them  as  their  fathers,  intermarry  among  them, 
»nd  join  them  in  all  their  wars.  They  cultivate 
corn,  beans',  pumpkins,  melons,  and  tobacco. 

The  Yattasees  live  on  Bayau  Pierre  or  Stony 
creek,  which  falls  into  Red  river  fifty  miles  above 
Natchitoches.  Their  village  is  in  a  large  prairie 
fifty  miles  above  Natchitoches,  and  about  midway 
to  the  Caddos.  They  are  surrounded  by  a  set- 
tlement of  French  families  ;  but  the  Spanish 
government  exercises  jurisdiction  over  this  set- 
tlement, where  they  keep  a  guard  of  a  non-com- 
missioned officer,  and  eight  soldiers.  The  French 
formerly  had  a  station  and  factory  here,  and  an- 
other on  the  Sabine,  about  one  hundrea  north- 
west of  this  settlement.  Of  the  ancient  Yattassees, 
there  are  about  eight  men  remaining,  and  twenty- 
five  women,  besides  children  ;  but  a  number  of 
men  of  other  nations  have  intermarried,  and  live 
with  them.  They  live  on  rich  land  ;  ra is  j  plenty 
of  corn,  beans,  tobacco,  and  other  vegetables  : 
have  horses,  cattle,  hogs,  and  poultry. 

The  Nandakoes  live  on  the  Sabine  river,  sixty 
ov  sevtnty  miles  to  the  w^estwaru,  near  where  the 


143 


French  formerly  had  a  sta.lon  and  factory.  A 
few  years  ago  they  suffered  very  much  by  the 
small  pox,  and  are  reduced  to  about  forty  men. 
They  consider  themselves  the  same  as  the  Cad- 
dos,  with  whom  they  intermarry;  visit  one 
another  in  the  greatest  harmony  ;  have  the  same 
manners,  customs  and  attachments. 

The  Adaize  live  about  forty  miles  from  Natch- 
itoches, on  a  lake  crWed  Lac  Macdan,  which 
communicates  with  the  division  of  Red  river,  that 
passes  by  Bayau  Pierre.  They  live  whewj  their 
ancestors  have  lived,  time  immemorial ;  the  near- 
est nation  to  the  old  Spanish  fort,  or  Mission 
Adaize ;  only  twenty  men  of  them  remain,  but 
there  are  more  women.  Their  language  differs 
from  all  other,  and  is  said  to  be  so  difficult  to 
speak  or  understand,  that  no  nation  can  speak 
ten  words  of  it ;  but  they  all  speak  Caddo,  and 
most  of  them  French  ;  to  whom  they  were  always 
attached,  and  joined  ihem  against  the  Natchez 
Indians,  after  the  massacre  of  Natchez,  in 
1^28.  While  the  Spaniards  occupied  Adaize, 
some  priests  attempted  to  proselyte  them  to  the 
Roman  Catholic  religion,  but  without  the  smallest 
success. 

The  Allelic,  pronounced  Eyeish,  reside  near 
Nacogdoches.  They  were  some  years  ago  a 
considerable  nation,  and  li/ed  on  a  bayau  of  the 
same  name,  about  twelve  miles  west  of  the  Sa- 
bine river,  but  the  smali  pox  destroyed  the  most 
of  them.    The  nation  is  now  almost  extinct,  bar- 


144 


¥ 


ing  only  twenty- five  souls  remaining.  Their 
native  language  is  spoken  by  no  other  nation, 
but  they  sp^ak  and  understand  Caddo,  with  whom 
they  are  in  friendship. 

The  Keyes,  or  Keychies,  live  on  the  east  band 
of  Trinity  river,  a  small  distance  above  where 
the  road  crosses  from  Natchitoches  to  Saint 
Antoine.  They  consist  of  only  sixty  men  ;  have 
their  peculiar  language,  but  speak  Caddo  j  inter- 
marry with  them,  and  live  in  great  harmony. 
They  plant  corn  and  other  vegetables. 

The  Inies,  or  Tachies,  live  about  twenty-five 
miles  west  of  Natchitoches,  on  a  small  river, 
which  is  a  branch  of  the  Sabine.  This  nation, 
like  all  their  neighbours,  is  diminished,  having 
only  about  eighty  men ;  speak  the  Caddo  lan- 
guage, and  live  in  amity  with  them.  They 
possess  rich  land  and  raise  corn  to  sell. 

The  Nabedaches  reside  about  fifteen  miles 
above  them,  on  the  same  river ;  consist  of  about 
the  same  number  of  men ;  speak  the  same  lan- 
guage ;  improve  the  best  of  land ;  raise  corn  in 
plenty  ,*  and  have  the  same  customs  and  habits. 

The  Bedies  are  on  the  Trinity  river,  about 
sixty  miles  southward  of  Nacogdoches.  They 
have  about  one  hundred  men,  who  are  good  hun- 
ters of  deer,  which  are  very  large  and  plenty 
about  them.  Their  language  differs  from  all 
others,  but  speak  Caddo ;  are  a  peaceable,  quiet 


i* ^i._:. 


people  ;  auu  nave  an  cxcciicnE  cnaracccr  lur  uicir 


145 


honesty  and  punctuality.    They  plant  and  raise 
large  crops  of  corn. 

The  Accokesaws  live  in  a  rich  and  beautifd 
country,  over  which  they  rove,  often  changing 
their  place  of  residence;  but  their  ancient  town, 
and  where  they  principally  reside,  is  on  the  west 
side  of  Colerado  or  Rio  Rouge.  The  deer  they 
kill  are  said  to  be  remarkably  large  and  fat,  of 
which  they  have  an  abundance.  Their  number 
of  men  is  about  eighty ;  they  have  a  language 
peculiar  to  themselves  ;  but  they  converse  much 
by  dumb  signs,  which  they  can  all  readily  under- 
stand. 

The  Mayes  live  on  a  large  creek,  called  Saint 
Gabriel,  on  the  bay  of  Saint  Bernard,  near  the 
mouth  of  Guadaloupe  river.  They  are  at  per- 
petual war  with  the  Spaniards,  but  very  friendly 
to  the  French.  Their  number  of  men  are  com- 
puted to  be  two  hundred.  They  have  a  language 
of  their  own,  but  speak  the  Attakapa,  and  like- 
wise converse  by  signs. 

The  Carankouas,  inhabit  an  island,  or  penin- 
siila,  in  the  bay  of  Saint  Bernard.  They  are 
always  at  war  with  the  Spaniards,  and  kill  thent 
whenever  they  find  them  ;  but  kind  to  the  French. 
They  are  said  to  be  five  hundred  men  strong ; 
speak  the  Attakapa  language,  and  are  friendly  to 
all  other  Indians. 

On  one  side  of  this  peninsula  is  a  high  bluff, 

^_!_       _i? 1         t.?.t-  •  _     _ 

ui  iiSv;uui.uiu    \Ji    vOUt,    Wfiicn    can  oe    Sccu   aiOuie 

distance  at  sea*    It  has  been  on  fire  for  many 
13 


146 


years  ;  affording  a  light  by  night,  'and  a  .  thick 
smoke  by  day,  which  has  deceived  and  endan- 
gered vessels  approaching  the  shoal  waters  on 
this  coast.  There  is  emitted  from  this  burning 
coal,  a  guminy  substance,  which  the  Spaniards 
call  cheta ;  it  is  thrown  on  the  shore  by  the  surf, 
and  collected  in  considerable  quantities  ;  it  has  a 
strong  aromatic  smell,  and  not  disagreeable  to 
the  taste.  It  is  collected  for  the  purpose  of  chew- 
ing, for  which  the  Spaniards  have  a  particular 
loudness.  * 

The  Cances  are  very  numerous,  consisting  of 
a  large  number  of  different  bands,  occupy  in  <^  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  country,  from  the  bay  of  Saint 
Bernard,  cross  the  river  Grand,  towards  La  Vera 
Cruz*  They  are  unfriendly  to  the  Spaniards,  and 
kill  them  when  they  have  opportunity  j  but  are 
strongly  attached  to  the  French.  They  princi- 
pally use  the  bow,  and  are  good  hunters.  These 
people  are  very  particular  in  their  dress,  differ- 
ing from  most  of  the  other  Indians.  The  dress 
of  the  men  is  straight  leather  leggins,  which  resem- 
ble pantaloons,  and  a  leather  hunting  shirt,  or 
frock.  The  women  dress  in  a  long,  loose  robe, 
which  so  entirely  covers  them,  that  nothing  but 
their  heads  and  feet  are  to  be  seen.  No  estimate 
can  be  made  of  the  numbers  of  this  nation.  The 
Spaniards  made  slaves  of  these  Indians,  and  sold 
numbers  of  them  to  the  French  at  Natchitoches  ; 

i_      ^    .1  •         _  -•  «ii»„*- ••  *-     J    '  - !_         ■"■• '' 

DUU  tOia    practice  WaS  piuniDiSCu.  Dy    tuC*    iviii^    OI 

Spain,  and  those  made  slaves  were  emancipated  . 


i4r 


after  which  some  of  the  women  wh  had  been 
servants  in  good  families,  and  taught  spinning, 
sewing,  and  household  work,  married,  and  be- 
came respectable,  well  behaved  women.  Some  of 
them  are  still  living,  and  have  brought  up  decent 
families  of  children.  They  have  a  peculiar  lan- 
guage,* and  are  understood  by  signs,  in  conversing 
with  others.  They  are  at  peace  with  all  nations 
except  the  Hietans. 

The  Tankaways  or  Tanks,  claim  no  exclusive 
right  to  any  tract  of  land  ;  are  always  roving,  and 
have  no  particular  place  of  abode.  They  wander 
♦>ver  the  country  watered  by  the  Trinity,  Braces, 
and  Colerado,  towards  Saint  a  Fd.  Their  num* 
ber  of  men  are  estimated  at  about  two  hundred  ; 
are  ore  horde  or  tribe  ;  dress  like  the  Cances  j 
arc  good  hunters  with  the  bow ;  and  raise  the 
best  breed  of  horses.  They  are  sometimes  eni- 
mies,  and  at  others,  friends  to  the  Spaniards. 
They  plant  nothing,  but  live  on  meat  and  wild 
fruit ;  are  a  strong  athletic  people,  and  excellenf: 
horse  men. 

The  Tawakenoes,  or  Three  Canes,  reside  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Braces,  and  make  their  usual 
place  of  aboad,  about  two  hundred  miles  west  of 
Nacogdoches,  towards  Saint  a  Fe  ;  but  make 
their  excursions  as  low  down  as  the  Great  Prai- 
ries about  the  Turtle  mountain.  They  are  esti- 
mated  at  about   two   hundred   men  ;  are  good 

liiintprs     nfinrinnllv  wifK    tV»f»  hnwr     hut  Viav  »  cntrrP- 


148 

guns.     They  speak  the  language  of  the    Panls, 
aad  claim  the  same  ancestors.         * 

The  Hietans  or  Comanches  have  neither  towns 
nor  villages,  nor  any  fixed  place  of  residence* 
They  are  divided  into  so  many  bands  or  tribes, 
that  they  have  scarcely  any  knowledge  of  one 
another.  No  estimate  of  their  numbers  can  be 
made.  They  never  reside  in  the  same  place 
more  than  a  ftw  days,  but  constantly  follow  the 
buffaloe,  which  afford  them  their  principal  food. 
They  carry  their  tents  with  them,  which  are  made 
of  neatly  dressed  skins,  in  the  form  of  a  cone  ; 
they  are  large  enough  for  a  family  of  ten  oi» 
twelve  persons ;  those  of  the  chiefs  are  larger, 
and  are  some  of  them  sufficient  for  fifty  or  sixty 
people.  When  they  encamp,  their  tents  arc 
pitched  in  very  exact  order,  so  as  to  form  regular 
streets  and  squares,  which  in  a  few  minutes  has 
the^  appearance  of  a  handsome  town,  raised,  as 
it  were,  by  enchantment ;  and  they  are  equally 
dexterous  in  striking  their  tents  and  preparing  to 
march,  when  the  signal  is  given.  They  allot  two 
horses  or  mules  to  every  tent,  one  to  carry  the 
tent,  and  the  other  the  poles  used  in  setting  it  up, 
which  are  neatly  made  of  red  cedar.  They  all 
travel  on  horse  back.  They  never  turn  their 
horses  loose  to  graze,  but  keep  them  tied  with  a 
long  halter ;  and  every  two  or  three  days  they 
are  obliged  to  move,  to  find  grass  for  the  support 


Tiutnber.     They  have  fine  horses,  and  are  excel< 


149 


lent  horse   men.     Most  of  their  horses  are  bred 
by  themselves,  and  by  handling,  them  when  very 
young  they  are   remarkably  docile  and   gentle. 
Sometimes  wild  horses  are  caught  and  tamed, 
which  are  every  where  amongst  them  in  large 
droves.     They  hunt  down  the  bufFaloe  on  horse 
back,  and  kill  them  either  with  the  bow,  or  a  sharp 
wooden  spear,   which  they  carry  in  their  hands. 
They  are  said,  when  they  kill  a  buffaloe,  to  catch 
and  drink   the  blood,  while  it   is  warm;  they 
likewise  eat  the  liver  raw,  before  it  is  cold,  and 
use  the  gall   for  sauce*     They  are,   for  savages, 
uncommonly  neat  and  clean  in  their  persons  and 
dress.  The  women  wear  a  long,  loose  robe,  which 
reaches  from  the  chin  to  the  ground,  with  a  fancy 
sash  or  girdle  around  the  waist,  all  made  of  neatly 
dressed  leather,  on  which  they  paint  figures  of 
different   colours  and  significations.     The  dress 
of    the  men  is  close  leather  pantaloons,  and  a 
hunting  frock,  made  of  leather.     They  cultivate 
no  vegetables,  but  they  season  their  food  with  a 
small  cayenne  pepper,  which  grows  spontaneously 
in  the  country,  and  some  wild  herbs.     They  also 
make  use  of  wild  fruits,  particularly  a  bean,  which 
grows  in  great  plenty  on  a  small  tree,  resembling 
a  willow,  called  masketo.     With  these  articles 
the  women  will  cook  their  buffaloe  beef  in  a  man- 
ner highly  grateful   to  the  taste.    They  occupy 
alternately  a  vast  extent  of  country  from  the  Trin- 

?.-.   xk »«   tVi*.   hnaH  of  Red  river,   and  Arkan- 

sas,  to  the  Missouri,  River  Grand,  ab^ut  Saint  a 

la* 


isa 


Fe,  and  over  the  mountains,  to  the  waters  of  the 
western  ocean.  They  say,  they  have  seen  big 
peroques,  with  masts,  which  they  describe  by 
drawing  a  ship  and  the  sails  and  rigging.  Their 
language  sounds  different  from  that  of  any  other 
nation,  and  none  can  either  speak  or  understand 
it ;  but  they  have  a  language  by  signs,  whch  can 
be  understood  by  all  Indians ;  and  which  they 
use  much  in  conversing  among  themselves.  They 
are  generally  at  war  with  the  Spaniards,  and  often 
commit  depredations  on  the  inhabitants  of  Saint 
a  F6,  and  Saint  Antoine  ;  but  have  always  been 
friendly  to  the  French  or  Americans,  who  have 
been  among  them.  They  have  a  number  of 
Spanish  men  and  women  among  them ;  who  are 
slaves,  and  who  were  made  prisoners  when  they 
were  young. 

The  following  story  is  related  by  an  elderly 
gentleman,  living  at  Natchitoches,  who  formerly 
carried  on  a  trade  with  this  natipn.  A  number 
of  years  ago,  a  party  of  these  Indians  passed  over 
the  River  Grand,  to  Chewawa,  the  residence  of 
the  governor-general  of  what  is  called  the  fiv« 
internal  provinces  ;  lay  in  ambush  for  an  oppor-» 
tunity,  and  made  a  prisoner  of  the  governor's 
daughter,  a  young  lady,  as  she  was  going  in  hey 
coach  to  mass,  and  brought  her  off.  The  gover- 
nor sent  a  message  to  this  gentleman,  with  a 
thousand  dollars,  fcr  the  purpose  of  recovering 
-iis  -visiigiitef ;  he  immediateiy  dispatched  a  co^t- 
fidential  trader,  then  in  his  employ,    with   tl»e 


tsi 


3  of  the 
;en  big 
ribe  by 
Their 
ly  other 
ierstand 
hch  can 
ch  they 
I.  They 
ad  often 
sf  Saint 
^8  been 
lo  have 
iber  of 
who  are 
en  they 

elderly 
)rmerly 
(lumbep 
ed  over 
:nce  of 
lie  fiv0 
oppor^ 
ernor'i 
in  hev 
gover- 
w^ith  a 
>vering' 
a  coi>« 
th   tt>e 


amount  of  the  thousand  dollars  in  merchandise, 
\trho  repaired  to  the  nation,  and  after  he  had  found 
her,  purchased  her  ransom ;  but  to  his  great  sur- 
prise, she  refused  to  return  with  him  to  her  fath- 
er, and  sent  by  him  the  following  message  :  that 
the  Indians  had  dis€gured  her  face,  by  tattooing 
it  according  to  their  fancy  and  ideas  of  beauty, 
and  a  young  man  of  them  had  taken  her  for  hia 
wife,  by  whom  she  belfeved  herself  pregnant ; 
that  she  had  become  reconr.iled  to  her  mode  of 
life,  and  was  well  treated  by  her  husband ;  and 
that  she  should  be  more  unhappy  by  returning  to 
her  father,  under  these  circumstances,  than  by 
remaining  where  she  was.  Which  message  waa 
conveyed  to  her  father,  who  rewarded  the  trader 
by  a  present  of  three  hundred  dollars  more  for 
his  trouble  and  fidelity  ;  and  that,  at  the  time  of 
relating  this  account,  his  daughter  was  living  with 
her  Indian  husband,  in  the  nation,  by  whom  she 
had  had  three  children. 

The  Natchitoches  nation  formerly  lived,  whcres 
the  town  of  Natchitoches  is  now  situated,  which 
took  its  name  from  them.  About  one  hundred 
years  ago,  when  the  French  began  their  settle- 
ment in  this  town,  this  nation  had  six  hundred , 
men.  They  became  attached,  to  French. people* 
and  have  ever  ham  their  steady  and  faithful 
friends.  After  the  massacre  of  the  French  inhab- 
itants of  Natchez,   by  the  Natchez  Indians,  ia 

. .«,  »    J* o^ji  r *u_  f-^ u      _r<.^— 

the  French  were   reinforced,  and  came  up  Red 


152 


river,  and  camped  about  six  miles  below  the  town 
of  Natchitoches,  near  the  river,  by  the  side  of  a 
small  lake  of  clear  water,  and  erected  a  mound 
of  earth,  of  considerable  size,  where  it  now  re- 
mains. Monsieur  Saint  Dennie,  a  French  Ca 
adian,  was  then  commandant  at  Natchitochf 
the  Indians  called  him  the  Big  Foot,  were  fond 
of  him,  for  he  was  a  brave  man.  Saint  Dennie, 
with  a  few  French  soldiers,  and  what  militia  he 
could  muster,  joined  by  the  Natchitoches  Indians, 
attacked  the  Natchez  Indians  in  their  camp, 
early  in  the  morning  ;  they  defended  themselves 
desperately  for  six  hours,  but  were  at  length  to- 
tally defeated,  and  what  were  not  killed  in  bat- 
tle, were  drove  into  the  lake,  were  the  last  of 
them  perished,  and  the  Natchez,  as  a  nation,  be- 
came extinct.  This  lake  is  now  called  Natchez 
take.  Since  that  time  the  Natchitoches  nation  have 
decreased,  until  their  remains  only  twelve  men, 
and  nineteen  women,  who  live  in  a  village  about 
twenty-five  miles  above  the  town,  near  a  lake 
called  by  the  French  Lac  de  Muire.  The  small 
pox  has  been  their  great  destroyer.  Their  ori- 
ginal language  is  the  same  as  the  Yattassee,  but 
speak  Caddo  and  French.  The  French  inhabit- 
ants highly  respect  this  nation,  and  a  number  of 
decent  families  have  a  mixture  of  their  blood  in 
them.  They  still  preserve  their  Indian  dress, 
and  habits  ;  raise  corn  and  the  other  vegetables' 
common  in  their  neighbourhood.^ 


153 

There  arc  the  remains  of  several  more  nations, 
who  are  become  nearly  extinct,  inhabiting  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  this  country,  who  are  mostly  emi^ 
grants  from  the  eastern  side  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  Boluxas,  from  Pensacola,  live  on  Red  river, 
at  the  mouth  of  Rigula  de  Bandieu,  who  are  re- 
duced to  about  thirty  men.     They  are  an  honest, 
harmless,  and  friendly  people.     The  Appalache^ 
from  West  Florida,   live  above   bayau  Rapide, 
and  consist  of  only  fourteen  men.  The    AlVtbamis 
came  from  West  Florida,  consist  of  seventy  men, 
of  whom  thirty  have  settled  near  the  Caddoques, 
and  forty  in  Appelousa   district.     Conchattas  arc 
from  West  Florida,  call  their  number  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  men,  and  are  settled  on  the  River 
Sabine.     Several  families  live  in  detached  settle- 
ments,  which  they  say  will  make  their  number 
two  hundred  men.     Pacanas  arc  also  emigrants 
from  West  Florida,   are  a  small  tribe  of  about 
thirty  men,   and  live  on  the  Quelqueshoe  river. 
Attakapas^  a  name  which  is  said  to  mean  man- 
eater,  but  no  more  applicable  to  this  tribe,  than 
that  of  any  other  Indians.     Their  number,  inclu- 
ding some  Tunicas  and  Humas  Indians,  who  have 
intermarried  and  live  with  them,  is  about  eighty 
men.     They  are  peaceable   and  friendly  to  every 
body,  and  are  settled  between  Attakapa  church 
af>d    the  Quelqueshoe    river.      The    Appelousa^ 
which  means  black  head  or  black  skull,  have  about 
forty  men,  are  natives  of  the  district  called  by 
their  name,  and  live  west  of  Appelousa  church. 


Tunicas  do  not  exceed  twonty-five  men,  and  live 
at  Avoyall.  Pascagolas  from  West  Florida, 
have  only  twenty- five  men,  and  live  in  a  small 
village  on  Red  river.  Tenisaws  are  emigranti 
from  Tenesau  river,  which  falls  into  the  bay  of 
Mobile,  are  reduced  to  twenty-five  men,  and  live 
on  bayau  Beauf.  Chactooa  live  on  the  same 
bayau;  are  aborigines  of  th^  country  where 
they  live,  and  are  diminished  to  about  thirty  men. 
Washaa  are  reduced  to  two  men  and  three  women, 
and  live  in  French  families.  The  Chuctaws  have 
two  villages,  one  consisting  of  thirty,  and  the  other 
of  fifty  men,  in  the  district  of  Appelousa,  besides 
jambling  hunting  parties,  in  different  parts  of  the 
country.  They  are  at  war  with  the  Caddoquea, 
and  not  liked  by  either  red  or  white  people. 
The  Arkansas^  who  claim  :hree  hundred  miles  on 
that  river,  but  live  in  three  villages,  are  supposed 
not  to  exceed  three  hundred  men.  They  speak 
the  Osage  language,  but  are  at  war  with  that  na- 
tion. They  raise  corn  to  sell,  and  are  called  an 
honest  and  friendly  people. 

These  Indian  nations  reside,  or  rove  in  their 
hunting  and  trading  excursions,  within  what  has 
been  conjectured  to  be  the  limits  of  Louisiana. 
In  ascertaining  their  numtvrs,  it  was  unavoidably 
necessary,  in  many  instances,  to  depend  on  In- 
dian information ;  but  it  is  presumed  that  the 
number  of  warriors,  which  is  generally  given  in 
even  numbers,  is  not  far  from  being  correct;  and 
calculating  on  the  best  data  that  could  be  obtain- 


iss 


cd,  the  souls  are  probably  estimated  rather  below, 
than  above  their  real  number. 

In  constructing  the  following  table,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  giving  a  collected  view  of  the  number  of 
each  nation,  and  an  aggregate  of  the  whole  of 
those  nations  which  are  so  numerous,  and  so  di- 
vided and  subdivided  into  bands  and  parties,  that 
their  numbers  could  not  be  known  by  any  infor- 
mation the  Indians  were  able  to  give,  are  pre- 
sumed to  be,  at  least,  equal  to  the  Great  and  Lit- 
tle Osage  nation,  and  their  numbers  are  assumed  i 
and  those  nations  of  whom  only  the  number  of 
men  are  ascertained,  the  number  of  souls  are 
calculated  in  about  the  same  proportion  to  the 
number  of  warriors,  with  those  of  the  other  na- 
tions. 


u« 


■•} 


Indian  jyatiens. 
Great  and  Little  Osage, 
Kanzas, 
Missouris, 
Ottoes, 
Panis  Proper, 
Panis  Republican 
or  Big-  Paunch, 
Panis  Loups,  or") 
Wolf  Indians,     3 
Malta, 
Pancars, 
liicaras, 
"Ms    lans, 
Ahwahhawa, 

Minetares,  or  Grossventres, 
Ayauwais, 
Saukees, 

Renars,  or  Fox  Indians, 
Sioux,  (ten  bands) 
Chten,  or  Dog  Indians, 
Wetepahatoes  and  Kiawas, 
Ivenenavisli, 
Staetan,  or  Kites, 
Kata, 

Nemousin,  or  Allebome, 
Botame, 
Castahana,     ' 
Keehatsa,  or  Crow  Indians, 
Allakaweah,  or  7 
Paunch  Indian^,  3 
Assinniboin  consisting  1 
of  three  bands,  3 

Chippeways,  three  bands, 
Algx)nquins,  two  bands, 
Christenoes,  or  Cree  Indians, 
Alansar,  or  Fall  Indians, 
Cattananaws,  (supposed  to  be) 
Tutsee,  or  Flat  Head, 
Alitans,  or  Snake  In- 7 
dians,  (supposed,)     y 
Caddoques, 
Yattasees, 
Nandakoes, 
Adaize, 
Aliche, 


IT 


^s«r^«S 


Inieii, 


Warriort. 

Soula^ 

2000 

8000 

300 

1200 

80 

300 

120 

500 

400 

1600 

300 

S80 

300 

50 

500 

50 

600 

200 

500 

800 

2590 

300 

200 

400 

100 

75 

SO 

SO 

1300 

900 

800 
900 


80 


1400 

1000 

GuO 

200 
2000 
1250 

200 
2500 

800 
2000 
1200 

reio 

1200 

roo 

1500 
400 
300 
200 
120 
5000 
3500 

2300 
3100 


700 

•2650 

300 

900 

300 

1000 

660 

2500 

600 

2000 

300 

900 

000 

8000 

100 

400 

8 

57 

40 

160 

30 

85 

8 

25 

60 

t^4f\ 

-'/TV/ 

320 


157 


Indian  J^'ationt. 

Warriors. 

Soulti 

Nabedaches, 

80 

320 

Bedies, 

100 

400 

Accokesaws, 

80 

320                       i 

]Mayes, 

200 

800 

Carankouas, 

500 

1200 

Cances,  (numerous") 
supposed  to  be,)     y 

2000 

800O 

Tankaways,  or  Tanks, 

200 

800 

Tawakenoes,  or  Three  Canes, 

200 

800 

Hietans,  (numerous^ 
supposed  to  be,)      ^ 

2000 

8000 

Natchitoches, 

12 

65 

Boluscas, 

30 

120 

Appalaches« 

14 

56 

AlUbamis, 

TO 

280 

Conchattas, 

2U0 

800 

Pacanas, 

300 

1200 

Atiakapas, 

80 

300 

Appelousa, 

40 

160                     ; 

Tunicas, 

25 

100 

Pascagolas, 

25 

100 

Tenisaws, 

25 

100                        1 

Chactoos, 

30 

120             ; 

Washas,  men  2,  wamen  3, 

2 

5 

Chactaws, 

80 

320 

Arkansas, 

300 

1200 

25,741 

94,403 

14 


THE 


JOURNAL 


OF 


Mr.  CHARLES  LE  RAYE. 


In  the  year  1801,  I  left  Canada  with  an  adven- 
ture of  goods,  to  trade  on  the  Missouri.  I  ar- 
rived at  the  French  settlement  on  the  Illinois, 
early  in  September,  and  concluded  to  ascend  the 
Osage  river,  and  to  trade  with  the  Osage  nation. 
Here  I  procured  two  additional  hands,  which 
completed  my  complement  of  six  men  besides  my 
self.  As  soon  as  my  perioque  was  linised,  wc 
embarked.  On  the  21st  of  September,  I  entered 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  as  the  waters 
were  low,  we  ascended  with  ease. 

On  the  7th  of  October,  entered  the  Osage 
river,  and  ascended  seven  miles,  where  we  en- 
camped to  hunt,  and  procure  meat.  Nothing  ma- 
terial occured  until  the  23d,  whe/  ve  had  ascend- 
ed within  sixty  miles  of  the  Osi.ge  village,  and 
had  encamped  for  the   night,  at  a  small  stream, 


5  u  up  VI 


ft"- 


ordered  the  men,  who  were  iu  a  tent  on  the  shore, 


159 

« 

to  keep  a  watch,  as  usual,  anil  retired  to  the  pe- 

rioque  to  sleep.     Just  before  day,   I  was  awaked 

by  the  rushing  of  a  number  of  Indians  through 

the  brush,  and  before  I  could  disengage  my  self 

and  my  gun  from  the  buffaloe  robe,   in  which  I 

was  enwrapped,  an  Indian,  followed  by  five  or  six 

more,  rushed  into  the  boat,  and  seizing  my  gun, 

dragged  me  on  shore.  As  soon  as  they  had  bound 

me,  I  was  hurried  back  into  the  boat,  and  seven 

Indians  jumping  in,   they  bushed   the  boat  from 

the  shore,  and  hurried  down  the  river,  as  fast  as 

they  could  paddle.     I  saw  a  large  number  on  the 

bank  aroui.d  the  tent.     It  was  so  dark  I  could 

not  distinctly  see  my  men,  but  heard  the  voice  of 

one  of  them  speaking  to  the  Indians,  in  the  Osage 

tongue.  From  this,  I  concluded  they  were  Osage 

Indians. 

The  Indians  in  the  boat  proceeded  with   me 

down  the  river  about  twenty  miles,   and  came  to 

their  encampment,  kept  by  four  lads,  fourteen  or 

fifteen  years  old.     Here  they  unloaded  the  boat. 

I  was  anxious  to  know  the  fate  of  my  men,  and 

about  noon   was  much  relieved  by  seeing  them 

brought  in  by  the  rest  of  the  party.     The  number 

of  Indians  now,  were  forty-six  men,  and  four  lads. 

They  immediately  collected  their  horses,  fourteen 

in  number,    and  the  goods  were  loaded  on  them. 

We  were  all  bound  with  buffaloe  cords  over  our 

arms,    and,  travelling  up  the  branch,  until  about 

midnight,  we  encamped.     When  we  lay  down  to 

sleep,  we  were  secured  between  two  Indians,  one 


160 

of  which  had  the  end  of  the  cord  with  which  we 
were  bound,  around  his  body.  In  the  morning, 
after  eating  some  dried  meat,  for  which  purpose 
our  arms  were  loosened,  we  pursued  a  course, 
north  or  west,  and  leaving  the  creek,  we  crossed 
several  ridges  covered  with  grass,  but  entirely 
destitute  of  timber.  About  noon  we  crossed  a 
small  stream,  a  branch  of  the  stream  we  had 
ascended,  and  encamped  on  it,  at  night.  On 
the  25th  of  October,  we  travelled  through  a 
country  somewhat  broken,  and  destitute  of  timber, 
but  game  was  very  plenty,  and  two  deer  were  shot. 
At  night  we  encamped  by  an  excellent  spring. 
There  being  no  wood,  we  kindled  a  fire  with  dry 
weeds,  and  broiled  meet  for  our  suppers. 

On  the  26th  we  set  forward  early,  and  contin- 
uing a  west  course,  came  to  a  stream  of  water 
which  one  of  my  men,  who  had  been  on  the 
Missouri,  said,  was  a  branch  of  Mine  river.  The 
country  became  more  level,  with  some  small  tim- 
ber near  the  water.  I  now  discovered  that  the 
Indians  were  not  Osage,  but  a  party  of  Sioux,  of 
the  Bois  Bucil  band.  We  encamped  on  the 
branch,  and  on  rich  land.  On  the  27th,  we  con- 
tinued down  the  stream  until  we  came  to  a  small 
j}ath,  where  the  land  was  covered  with  high  grnss 
and  weeds.  We  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  the 
stream.  On  the  28th,  we  crossed  the  stream, 
and  proceeded  a  west  course  to  Mine  river,  and 
crossing  the  river,  we  encamped  on  the  west  side, 
on  rich  land,    covered  with    large  timber.     Here 


161 


we  tarried   part  of  the    clay  to  hunt,  having  no 
other  provision  than  some  corn,  taken   from  the 
perioque.     During  the  day  the  cords  were  taken 
from  our  arms.    The  guns  and  ammunition  taken 
from   the  perioque  were  sufficient  to  furnish  the 
Indians,  so  that  most  of  them  were  well  armed, 
and  only  a  few  of  them  made  use  of  their  bows. 
On  the  29th,  we  left  Mine  river,  and  continued 
a  west  course  until   we  came   to   a  large  beaten 
path,   which   was   the    Kanzas    war  path  to  the 
Missouri.  We  continued  in  the  path  a  few  miles, 
and  left  it  to  the  right.    We  encamped  on  a  small 
run,  with  scarcely  water  sufficient  to  quench  our 
thirst.     P'oceeding  early  on  the   30th,  we  trav- 
elled through  a   level,  rich  country  destitute  of 
timber.     At  this  time  my  feet,  and  the   feet  of 
some  of  my  men,  had  become  so  sore  as  scarcely 
to  be  able  to  walk.     Coming  to  a  branch  of  the 
Kanzas  river,  we  encamped.  As  soon  as  the  camp 
was  made,  a  keg  of  rum  Taken  from  the  perioque 
was  broached,  and  soon  all  the  Indians,  except  the  * 
chief,  four  warriors  and  the  four  lads,  were  drunk. 
After  a  very  noisy  night,  towards  morning  they 
fell  a  sleep.    They  had  taken  great  care  to  secure 
us  before  they  began  to  drink.     In  the  hurry  last 
evening  to  taste   the  rum,  they  had  neglected  to 
give  us  any  thing  to  eat.     This  morning,  (31st), 
our  appetites  were  of  course  good,  as  we  had  not 
tasted  any  thing  but  water  and  a  little  spirit  since 
the   preceding  morning.     We  therefore  cat  an 
hearty  breakfast,  and  assisted   in  loading    the 
14=* 


Miimi^mi 


162 

horses.  The  Indians  after  they  awoke  were  again 
for  tasting  the  spirits,  but  this  being  opposed  by 
the  chief,  and  the  horses  being  loaded,  we  pro- 
ceeded. Continuing  our  course  down  a  branch 
of  the  Kanzas,  started  a  drove  of  buffaloe,  con- 
sisting of  two  or  three  hundred.  The  Indians 
killed  six,  and  then  encamped  on  the  branch. 
I  expected  the  rum  would  have  been  broached, 
but  their  debauch  the  night  before  seemed  to 
have  satisfied  them.  Here  they  informed  us,  that 
in  two  days  we  should  arrive  at  the  camp  where 
their  w^^ppMCn  were. 

Nove^iber  1st,  we  continued  down  the  branch. 
Snow  fell  some  depth  last  night.  Proceeded  early 
on  the  2d,  and  found  the  country  somewhat  hilly, 
but  destitute  of  timber,  except  near  the  water. 
On  the  3d,  it  rained,  and  we  continued  in  the 
camp.  Three  meti  were  sent  forward  to  notify 
the  band  of  our  approach.  Towards  noon  the 
weather  cleared  up,  and  we  proceeded  about  six 
miles,  and  met  the  whole  band,  consisting  of 
about  two  hundred  men,  women  and  children. 
As  scon  as  the  chief  discovered  the  band,  he  set 
up  the  yell,  and,  was  answered  by  the  band,  which 
formed  two  lines,  opening  to  the  right  and  left, 
and  we  were  led  between  them.  Some  of  the 
children  shewed  a  dispositon  to  insult  us,  but 
were  prevented  by  the  men.  The  whole  pro- 
ceeded to  the  encampments,  where  the  tents  were 
all  standing  in  two  rows,  faci!)g  each  other.  Un- 
der different  circumstances  I  should  have  been 


163 


pleased  with  the    appearance.     But  at  this  time 
my  mind  was   occupied  with  anxiety  abou.    my 
fate,  and  that  of  my  co  ipauions,  expecting  to  be 
tomehawked  or  burned.    On  our  arrival  we  were 
taken  to  the  centre  of  the  encampment,  where  the 
two  chief  tents  were  situated,    and  my  self  and 
companions  put  into  the   tents  belonging  to  the 
chief  who    had   ^aken  us*     The  goods  were  un- 
loaded and  distributed  among  the  Indians.  While 
this  was  doing,   a  Frenchman  came  into  the  tent 
and  spoke  t    me,  which  much  revived  my  spirits. 
As  soon  as  he  had  learned  that  we  were  all  French- 
men, he  left  us  ;  but  soon  returned  with  the  con- 
soling news  that  we  sliould  be  well  treated.  The 
chief  soon  after  came  in,  ordered  us    unbound, 
and  that  some     leat  should  be    given  us  to  eat. 
His  squaws  were  now  bringing  in  his  share  of  the 
goods.     The  chief  seated  himself,  and  then  the 
other  chief  and  the  warriors  came  in,  and  after 
lighting  their  pipes,  entered  into  a  long  conversa- 
tion, in  the  Sioux  tongue,  with   the    Fenchman. 
As  soon  as  the  conversation  ended,  my  men  were 
distributed  among  the  warriors,  and  I  was  retain- 
ed by  the  chief  who  took  me.     The  name  of  the 
Frenchman,    who  resided  with  this  people,  was 
Pardo.     He  informed  me  no  further  injury  was 
intended  me,  or  my  men.     He  also  informed  me 
that  this  was  a  party  that  went  in  pursuit  of  some 
Osage   Indians,  who,  a  short  time  before,   had 
killed  some  of  their  band,  and  that  their  meeting 
with  me  was  accidental ;  but  suspecting  me  to  be 


164 


taking  goods  and  arms  to  the  Osage  Indians,  their 
enemies,  they  took  me.  In  the  evening  the  rum 
was  again  broached.  Two  kegs  of  high  proof 
spirits  had  been  taken  from  the  perioque,  which 
contained  about  twelve  gallons  each.  I  was  di- 
rected not  to  leave  the  tent. 

Early  in  the  morning  of  the  4th,  I  went  out 
and  found  all  still.  At  the  farther  part  of  the 
encampment,  where  the  liquor  was  drank,  I  saw 
the  horrid  effects  of  their  last  night's  debauch. 
The  wood,  weeds,  and  almost  every  thing,  was 
covered  with  blood.  While  I  was  viewing  the 
scene,  an  Indian  came  to  me,  and  bid  me  begone. 
I  therefore  immediately  returned  to  the  tent. 
Soon  after  Mr.  Pardo  came  in  and  told  me  the 
Indians  had  been  very  drunk,  and  had  fought  with 
their  knives.  Three  of  them  were  badly  wounded, 
and  one  very  dangerously.  I  was  permitted  to 
take  several  small  articles  from  the  chiefs  share 
of  the  goods,  among  which  were  rsiy  papers,  a 
razor  and  a  lappo  coat.  These  I  procured  through 
the  influence  of  Mr.  Pardo.  He  informed  me 
that  in  a  few  days  the  band  would  go  to  the  Ri- 
carus  village,  wliere  more  of  the  band  were.  This 
camp  in  whi^h  we  now  were,  was  situated  on  a 
lage  fork  of  the  Kanzas,  on  the  edge  of  a  prairie. 
The  tents  were  made  of  buffaloe  skins  dressed, 
and  painted  with  a  variety  of  rude  figures,  which 
at  a  distance  made  a  handsome  appearance.  Each 
tent  was  set  up  in  form  of  a  cone,  by  means  of  a 
pole  about  twelve  feet  long,   with  the  skins  tied 


165 


round  it,  at  the  top,  and  spread  out  at  the  bottom. 
The  doors  of  the  tents  were  made  facing  each 
other,  before  which  they  made  a  fire,  and  some 
times  one  in  the  tent.  It  was  several  days  be- 
fore the  wounded  Indians  could  be  moved,  and 
during  our  stay  the  Indians  killed  a  deer,  which 
iS  called  the  long  tailed  deer.  It  was  larger  than 
the  red  deer,  of  a  darker  colour,  and  with  a  white 
belly.  Its  horns  are  short,  small  and  somewhat 
flat ;  its  tail  nearly  eighteen  inches  long.  They 
are  said  to  be  plenty  in  these  plains. 

The  wounded  Indians  having  so  far  recovered 
as  to  be  able  to  be  transported,  on  the  12th,  we 
prepared  for  our  departure,  and  removed  a  few 
miles.  The  Indians  now  treated  me  with  a  much 
greater  degree  of  hospitality,  than,  from  their 
former  conduct,  I  had  any  reason  to  expect.  On 
the  13th,  we  continued  our  course  to  the  Kanzas 
river.  This  is  a  handsome  stream,  about  twice 
as  wide  as  the  Osage,  and  flows  through  a  rich 
country,  but  mostly  destitute  of  timber,  except 
on  the  water  courses.  We  crossed  it  about  forty 
miles  from  the  mouth.  The  Kanzas  nation  of 
Indians  reside  near  its  head  waters.  On  the 
14th,  continued  a  northwest  course  in  a  well 
beaten  path,  and  the  country  somewhat  hilly. 
The  15th,  crossed  a  small  stream  of  water  run- 
ning to  the  northwest,  the  land  hilly,  without 
timber.  From  this  time  to  the  20th,  very  little 
difi'erence  in  the  appearance  of  the  country. 
On   the  20th,  came  to  a  branch  of  the  river  La 


166 


Plate.  The  land  now  became  rich  and  level, 
with  wood  5i(  ar  the  water.  Here  the  Indians 
sepjuate^ii,  md  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  di- 
rected their  course  towards  the  Missouri,  with 
whom  all  my  men  were  taken.  Mr.  Pardo,  my- 
seli^,  the  chief  who  took  me,  and  the  rest  of  the 
Indians,  contiuued  our  course  towards  the  Rica- 
ras  village. 

On  the  24th,  came  to  the  River  La  Plate. 
This  is  a  rapid  stream,  not  less  than  three  forths 
of  a  mile  in  width.  It  comes  from  a  great  dis- 
tance from  towards  the  south.  The  Panis,  Ottoes, 
Missouri  and  Wolf  Indians,  live  on  the  waters 
of  this  river,  and  are  all  at  war  with  the  Sioux. 
On  the  25th,  we  crossed  the  river  whh  great  dif- 
ficulty and  danger,  owing  to  the  running  of  the 
ice. 

On  the  26th,  some  of  the  squaws  made  them- 
selves carriages,  to  transport  their  baggage,  by 
lashing  three  or  four  bars  to  the  ends  of  two  slim 
poles,  and  yoking  a  dog  to  the  poles.  A  dog,  in 
this  manner,  will  draw  about  seventy  pounds. 
The  snow  was  now  about  eight  inches  deep. 
We  continued  our  course  on  the  27th,  northwest- 
erly. Here  the  country  became  more  broken, 
ascending  into  ridges.  There  were  a  considera- 
ble number  of  elk,  buffaloe,  cabree  or  antelope, 
and  deer,  and  very  little  timber  to  be  seen  on 
these  ridges. 

Nothing  material  occurred  until  the  2d  day 
of  December,  when   we  came  to  the   Missouri, 


167 


and  crossed  it  near  the  mouth  of  the  Little  Pioux. 
We  continued  our  course  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Missouri,  often  near  it,  until  we  arrived  at 
the  lodges,  on  the  Sioux  river,  which  was  on  the 
8th,  where  we  prepared  to  spend  the  remainder 
of  the  winter.  It  was  found  that  several  of  the 
Indians  had  got  frozen.  They  were  very  slightly 
clothed,  having  nothing  more  than  a  buffaloe  robe, 
or  a  deer,  or  cabree  skin,  thrown  over  their 
shoulders,  with  only  leggins,  their  moccasons 
being  worn  out.  The  weather  was  now  very  se- 
vere, and  the  lodges  illy  calculated  to  shelter  us 
from  it.  We  covered  and  patched  them  up,  as 
well  as  we  could,  with  dry  grass  and  willow 
branchea.  In  the  centre  an  opening  was  made, 
ten  feet  in  length,  and  eighteen  inches  in  width, 
for  the  purposes  of  letting  out  the  smoke,  and  let- 
ing  in  the  light.  The  doors  were  made  close 
with  buffaloe  skins.  During  the  night,  the  horses 
are  sheltered  under  the  same  cover  with  the  peo- 
ple, being  only  separated  by  a  pole.  They  are 
fed  in  the  night  on  willow  and  button  wood 
branches,  and  in  the  day  time  are  turned  out  to 
graze  on  whatever  chey  can  find  to  eat. 

These  Indians  are  the  dirtiest  creatures  on 
earth.  They  bring  their  water  for  themselves 
and  their  horses,  ui  the  paunches  of  the  deer  and 
cabree,  which  are  never  cleansed  more  than  what 
is  done  by  constant  use.     Their  meat  is  cooked 


WTU. 


kU„..  u^'.^   i4 


'  ~    wiwU      «>*£w  y     iJUki     2^1 


they  continue  the  boiling  until  it  caa  be  eaten 


168 


with  a  spoon,  throwing  in  a  handful  of  corn,  if 
they  have  it,  with  a  small  quantity  of  bear's  oil ; 
but  make  use  of  no  seasoning  of  any  kind.  When 
it  is  ready  to  eat,  the  whole  company,  with  ten 
or  fifteen  dogs,  gather  round  it,  and  each  one 
strives  to  get  his  share.  They  have  no  set  times 
for  their  meals,  but  it  seems  to  depend  on  the 
calls  of  hunger,  and  a  disposition  to  prepare  the 
food. 

An  animal  is  found  in  these  plains,   called  le 
prairie  chein,  or  prairie  dog.     It  is   smaller  than 
the  grey  fox,  and  formed  much  like  the  dog.  Its 
ears  are  pointed  and   stand  erect,  and  the  whole 
head  very  much  resembles   the  dog.     Its  tail  is 
long,  slim,  and  of  a  dur:  colour.  It  digs  holes  and 
burrows   in  a  light,  loamy  soil,  and  in  the  same 
holes,    a  small    speckled    snake    takes    shelter, 
which  the  Indians  call  the  dog's  guard.     The  In- 
dians have  many  superstitious  notions  respecting 
these   dogs.     The  Ay-oo-wars,  or  Nespeirce  na- 
tion have  a  tradition  that  the  human  race  sprang 
from  this  dog  and  the  beaver.     All  other  nations 
hold  them  in  great  veneration.     A  kind  of  deer 
were  frequently  killed  here,  called  mule  deer.    It 
is  smaller  and  of  a  darker  colour  than  the  red 
deer,  having  large,  branched  horns.     The  ears 
are  very  large ;  the  tail  about  five   inches  long, 
with  short  dark  hair,  and  at  the  end,  a  tuft  com- 
posed of  long,    black  hair.      A  species  of   the 
badcer.  called  nrarovir.  inhahitfi  tKieai*  niaina.      Ita 
head  much  resembles  the  dog;  leg*  short  and 


169 


very  thick  in  prr(,onif,n  to  its  body,  armed  with 
long,  sharp  clvvs,  v  -il  adapted  to  digging.  The 
size  of  the  br  .  nriewhat  exceeds  the  ground 
hog;  hairoiada.  jrown  colour,  and  tail,  bushy, 
resembling  tha*-  '  .he  ground  hog.  It  burrows 
and  lodges  in  luc  ground. 

In  the  latter  part  of  winter  we  were  much  dis* 
tressed  for  food.  Hunting  became  bad,  and  game 
scarce.  We  had  often  nothing  more  than  one 
poor  dog  boiled,  to  feed  twenty  for  a  day,  and 
sometimes  for  a  much  ionger  space  of  time. 
The  Indians  are  fond  of  dog's  flesh,  and  at  their 
feasts  use  no  other  kind  of  meat.  During  the 
winter,  a  few  fish  were  taken  in  the  river.  These 
were  principally  the  cat  fish. 

To  my  great  satisfaction,  on  the  20th  of  March, 
J  802,  we  left  this  camp  of  filth  and  misery,  where 
we  had  remained  from  the  8th  of  December, 
and  proceeded  towards  the  Ricaras,  or  Rus,  as 
the  traders  call  them.  Some  of  the  Indians  had 
prepared  themselves  sleighs  to  ride  in,  which 
were  made  in  the  following  manner.  A  slender 
frame  was  made  of  small  sticks,  woven  together, 
about  three  feet  in  length,  and  the  sides  about 
eight  inches  high.  Over  this  frame,  deer  or  ca- 
bree  skins  were  drawn  tight,  and  came  over  the 
upper  part,  forward,  about  eighteen  inches.  It 
was  then  placed  on  two  runners,  made  of  bent 
poles,  to  the  end  of  which  was  fastened  two  slim 

noles  for  8h»ft:<!.    T'hf>  Wlin1f>  wae  cor>iifA#1  tnn.^^Ua'm 


\J-^f.-XlZ    \.^^       fw'J 


by  buffaloe  cords.    Two  dogs  were  then  yoked 
15 


iro 

to  the  shiifts,  one  before  the  other,  and  the  rider 
Tilaccs  himself  in  the  sleigh,  with  his  feet  under 
the  covered  part.  He  then  guides  the  foremost 
dog  by  a  line  fastened  round  his  neck,  and  in  this 
manner  the  dogs  will  draw  him  with  great  ease. 
We  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the  Missouri,  near 
the  salt  springs,  on  the  23d,  and  being  unable  to 
cross  the  river  on  account  of  the  ice,  which  be- 
gaa  to  break  up,  we  continued  up  the  river  to 
where  the  ice  remained  firm,  and  well  secured  by 
a  sand  bar  in  the  middle  of  the  river.  Here  we 
crossed,  and  proceeded  up  to  White  river,  about 
twenty  miles,  where  we  arrived  on  the  27th,  and 
encamped.  On  the  29th,  we  removed  up  the 
White  river,  sixteen  miles,  to  hunt.  The  snow 
now  began  to  disappear,  and  the  plains  were  cov- 
ered with  game.  Here  no  timber  was  to  be  seen 
except  on  the  water  courses,  where  a  few  willows, 
elm,  and  button  wood  grew,  but  the  appearance 
of  the  soil  was  rich.  A  small  party  of  Rus, 
joined  us  at  this  camp,  and  on  the  6th  of  April, 
we  crossed  White  river,  which  is  about  one  hun- 
(^red  and  fifty  yards  wide,  and  continued  our 
journey  towards  the  Rus  village.  On  the  9t1i,, 
we  encamped  on  Tyler's  creek  ;  and  on  the  12th, 
we  arrived  opposite  Tuton  river.  Here  we  left 
the  Missouri,  and  proceeded  a  west  course  to  the 
River  Chein,  or  Dog  river.  On  this  route  we 
travelled  through  a  broken  country,  destitute  of 
wood,  and  badly  watered.  We  arrived  at  the 
Chein  river  on  the  14th,and  immediately  crossed  it 


in 


the  rider 
et  under 
foremost 
id  in  this 
eat  ease, 
uri,  near 
unable  to 
hich  be- 
river  to 
:cured  by 
Here  we 
er,  about 
l7th,  and 
1  up  the 
rhe  snow 
vere  cov- 
3  be  seen 
willows, 
)pearance 
of  Rus, 
3f  April, 
one  hun- 
lued  our 
I  the  9t1i, 
the  13th, 
e  we  left 
rse  to  the 
route  we 
isiitute  of 
ed  at  the 
crossed  it 


in  buffaloe  canoes.     The   river  is  nearly  half  a 
mile  wide,  and  as  the  Indians  informed  me,  flows 
through  a   plain,  ^evel  country,  for  several  hun- 
dreds of  miles,  mostly  destitute  of  timber.     On 
the  head  waters  riside  several  tribes  of  Indians, 
with  which    the    Sioux   are  at  war.     The  most 
powerful  of  these  tribes  are  the  Chein,  or  Dog- 
Indians.     There   are  also   the    Gens-di-rach^   or 
Kananawesh,    the    Kites   and    Dotame,   besides 
bands  of  the  Mahas,  Pancars,  and  Kataka,     We 
met  with  a  camp  of  the  Rus  Indians,  who  were 
hunting,  and  continued  here  until  the  18th,  when 
they  joined   us,  and  we  proceeded  to  the  villages 
about  sixty  miles,  travelling  through    a  country 
destitute  of   timber,   and  interspersed  with  large 
hills.     On  the  22d,  arrived  at   the  lower  village 
and  joined  several  camps  of  Sioux  and  Dog  In- 
dians. The  Ricaras  or  Rus,  have  three  villages, 
situated  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Missouri,  in  the 
great  bend  of  the  river.     The  lower  village  is  on 
a  large  bottom,  covered  with  cotton   wood,   and 
contains  about  fifty  huts.     These  huts  were  built 
in  a  diff  tent  manner,  and  were  more  comfortable 
habitations,    than   any  Indian  huts  I  had  before 
seen.     To  build  their  huts,  they  cut  four  forked 
posts,    which  are  set  up  fifteen    feet  high.     Two 
of   these  posts  stand   eighteen  inches  apart,   and 
two  stand    at  the  distance  of  ten  feet  from   the 
other  two  posts,   and  ten   feet  from  each  other, 
on  which  two  ridge  poles    are   placed.     Around 
these  posts  they  er^^ct  sixteen  forked  ports  more, 


ir2 


I 


six  feet   high,  which  are  so  placed  as  to  form  a 
circular  figure,    eighteen  feet   in   diameter.     On 
the  front  side  two  more  posts,  six  feet  long,  arc 
set  up,   ten  feet  from  the  building,  and  four  feet 
apart.     Short  poles  are  then  laid  round  on  these 
sixteen  forks,    and  on  the  forks  of  the  two  posts 
which  project  in  front,  to  connect  them  with  the 
building.     Stakes  are  then  placed  in   a  reclining 
position,    so  as   to  lean  against  the  poles  which 
are  placed  on  the  six  feet  posts,  and  stand  eight 
or  nine  inches  apart.  •  At  the  upper  end  of  these 
stakes,  poles   are  fastened,  so  that  the  other  end 
rests  upon  the  ridge  poles.     When   the  frame  is 
thus  completed,  the  whole  is  covered  with  willow 
and   cotton   wood  branches,   except   an  opening 
between  the  ridge  poles,   for  the  smoke   to   pass, 
and  the  space  in  the  front  of  the  projection,  which 
is  left  for  a  door  way.     Over  the  branches  is  laid 
a  covering  of  long  grass,  and  over  the  grass,   a 
coat  of  clay  mortar. 

These  huts  are  placed  with  great  regularity,  in 
two  straight  rows.  The  doors  in  each  row  front 
those  in  the  opposite  row,  so  that  the  huts  stand 
facing  each  other,  with  a  space  of  twelve  feet  be- 
tween the  doors.  The  town  is  picketed  with 
pickets,  twelve  feet  high,  and  set  very  close,  to 
prevent  firing  between  them.  There  is  one  gate 
way,  which  is  shut  at  night. 

These  people  are  much  more  cleanly  in  their 
persons,  dress,  and  food,  than  the  Sioux.  Thev 
are  also  of  a  lighter  complexion,  which  is  of  a 


irs 


I  form  a 
er.     On 
3r>g,  arc 
our  feet 
m  these 
Yo  posts 
tvith  the 
ecliuing 
1  which 
id  eight 
j{  these 
her  end 
raine  is 

willow 
)pening 
3  pass, 
,  which 

is  laid 
rass,   a 


bright  copper  colour,  with  aquiline  noses  and. 
black,  lively  eyes.  The  women  have  high  cheek 
bones,  oval  faces,  and  "egular  features.  Both 
men  and  women  are  oi  r  social,  sprightly  make. 
The  men  are  tall  and  well  formed,  and  the  women, 
though  smaller,  arc  equally  well  shaped,  and 
rather  handsome,  than  otherwise.  Their  dress 
consists  of  a  shift  made  of  dressed  deer  skins,  and 
reaches  from  the  chin,  below  the  knee,  to  the  mid- 
dle of  the  leg,  with  short  sleeves.  It  is  secured 
round  the  waist  by  a  belt  of  wampum.  They 
wear  moccasons  and  leggins,  and  in  the  winter 
a  buff'aloe  robe,  thrown  over  their  shoulders. 
The  men  wear  a  wide  strip  of  leather,  about  three 
feet  long,  which  they  draw  between  their  legs, 
and  fasten  it  around  the  middle  by  a  belt.  They 
have  long  leggins  and  moccasons,  and  a  bufFaloe 
robe  over  their  shoulders. 

These  Indians  raise  corn,  beans,  melons, 
pumpkins  and  tobacco.  Their  tobacco  differ* 
from  that  which  is  raised  by  white  people.  It 
has  a  smaller  stalk,  that  grows  about  eighteen 
inches  high,  wi.  ri  long,  narrow  leaves,  and  is  only 
used  Ibr  tTioking.  The  Indians  never  chew, 
nor  snuft  ;  h"i«  CO.  They  carry  on,.at  these  villa- 
ges, a  considerable  commerce  with  these  produr- 
ticus  ;  havinp"  much  more  ihanthey  want  for  their 
ov/r  >i>iisvmption.  It  is  a  barter  trad',  with 
neiglibouring  nations,  who  never  cultivate  the 
grounu,  tor  such  articles  of  European  goods,  as 
they  have  procured  at  the  British  establishment^;^ 
15* 


174 

at  the  falls  of  Saint  Anthony,  or  from  traders  ; 
pnd  also  for  horses,  mules,  dried  meat,  and  other 
articles.  Their  principal  customers  are  the  Sioux, 
the  Ghein  Indians,  Watapahatoes^  Gens-dis-vatch, 
Kites^  and  Dotame,  th-  most  of  whom,  except  the 
Sioux,  reside  on   the  river  Chein.     This  nation 
was  once   very  numerous,  and   consisted  of  ten 
tribes  of  the  Fa7iis,  who  reside   on  the  river  La 
Plate,  and  whose  tongue  they  speak  in  somewhat 
of  different  accent.     They  have    now   not    much 
over  five  hundred  warriors  ;  having  been  reduced 
from    five    thousand    warriors,    to  their  present 
number,  in  less  than  thirty  years,   by  the  small 
pox  and  attacks  of  their  enemies  ;  particularly  by 
the  Sioux,  who  have  got  them  so  far  under  sub- 
jection, that  they  dare  not  offend   them,    and  are 
frequently  robbed,  plundered,  and  even  murdered, 
without  daring  to  resent   it.     This   information 
was  given  me  by  an  old  chief  of  the  lower  vil- 
lages. 

Above  the  Sioux  river,  and  between  that  and 
the  River  Sacque,  is  a  small  hill,  destitute  of 
timber,  which  the  natives  say  is  inhabited  by 
spirits,  in  shape  of  human  beings,  of  a  very- 
diminutive  size,  not  being,  according  to  their  de- 
scription, more  than  six  or  eight  inches  high. 
Respecting  these  bodily  spirits  they  have  a  num- 
ber of  ridiculous  fancies.  An  old  chief  told  me, 
with  great  gravity,  that  the  occasion  of  their  com- 
ing and  living  on  this  hill,  was,  because  the  In- 
dians, a  great  many  winters  ago,  were  so  wicked 


175 


and  f'oolish,  as  to  strive  to  kill  all  the  animals 
made  for  their  use.  The  Great  Spirit  saw  them 
from  above,  and  was  so  angry  with  them  that  he 
sent  these  little  beings,  which  the  Indians  call 
Wakons,  to  drive  all  the  animals  out  of  the  coun- 
try, which  they  did,  ani  many  of  the  Indians 
starved  for  want  of  food.  But  after  much  entreaty 
and  many  sacrifices,  the  anger  of  the  Great  Spirit 
was  appeased,  and  he  permitted  the  animals  to 
return  ;  but  directed  the  Wakons  to  reside  on 
this  hill,  to  watch  the  conduct  of  the  Indians,  and 
should  they  again  be  so  wicked,  they  are  to  drive 
all  the  animr'  ,  never  to  return.  This  impres- 
sion has  ha  xcellent  effect  on  the  natives,  ad 
it  prevents  Ci.  .»,seless  waste  of  what  is  so  necessary 
for  their  subsistence.  The}  pretend  often  to  see 
these  little  beings  on,  and  about  the  hill,  as  they 
are  passing,  but  no  consideration  would  induce 
an  Indian  to  set  his  foot  on  this  holy  ground. 

The  lower  village,  on  the  20th  of  May,  held 
their  great  feast.  Two  days  previous  notice  was 
given  by  their  principal  chiefs.  There  being  a 
number  of  camps  of  different  tribes,  they  were  all 
invited  to  join,  and  in  the  morning  of  the  festi- 
val, were  dressed  out  in  their  best  attire,  and 
made  ^^o  indifferent  appearance.  Their  faces 
were  tiaiibed  with  a  variety  of  paints.  Their 
ears,  noses  and  hair,  were  full  of  silver  ringoi,  and 
of  silver  and  glass  trinkets;  with  silver  breast 
plates ;  and  a  multitude  cf  beads,  hanging  round 
their  necks.     Their  hair  was  also  filled  with  the 


ire 

feathers    of    the    eagle,    and  other  large   birds, 
Bandayes  full  of  brooches  were  tied  round  their 
foreheads.  Their  clothes  neatly  worked  with  por- 
cupine quills  and  beads,  and  large  wampum  belts 
around  the   middle.     Their  moccasons  and  leg- 
gins  strung  with  bits  of  brass  and  beads,  worked 
full  of  porcupine  quills  and  horse  hair  dyed  red. 
In  this  finical,  gaudy  dress,  they  all  assembled  in 
a  place  prepared  for  the  purpose,  near  the  village^ 
in  the  fore  part  of  the  day.       The  men  only  par- 
take of  the  feast,   but   the   women    are  distant 
spectators ;  for  they  are  never  suffered  to  eat  with 
the  men,  neither  at  feasts,  aor  in  their  own  fami- 
lies, when  strangers  are  present.    This,  however, 
does  not  prevent  them  from  decorating  themselves 
for  the  occasion.      After  all  had  assembled,  the 
head  chief  of  the  village  addressed  the  company 
in  an   impressive  speech,   in  which  he  informed 
them,  that  it  had  been  a  practice,  time  immemo- 
rial, to  celebrate  the  return  of  the  spring,  by  a 
feast   to  the  Great  Spirit.     He  recommended  to 
them  peaceable  and  friendly  behaviour,  and  told 
them,  that  as  the  Great  Spirit  had  given  them  an 
unclouded  sky,  he  was  well  pleased  with  their  in- 
tention, and  that  each  one  should  be  careful  not 
to   offend  him  by  improper  conduct.     After  the 
address,  the  company  were  seated,  and  the  head 
chief  opened    his  medicine  bag,  from   which  he 
drew  iae  sacred  stem  or  pipe.     This   he  placed 
on  the  forked  sticks  set  in  the  ground  before  him 
for  the  purpose.     Fire  was  then  brought,  and  he 


2   birdsT 
nd  their 
'ith  por- 
im  belts 
and  leg- 
worked 
ycd  red. 
ibled  in 
village^ 
nly  par- 
distant 
sat  with 
n  fami- 
owever, 
mselves 
led,  the 
Jmpany 
formed 
imemo- 
5r  by  a 
ided  to 
nd  told 
Iiem  an 
leir  in- 
iful  not 
fter  the 
le  head 
lich  he 
placed 
re  him 
and  he 


irr 

lighted  the  pipe,  and  blowed  the  smoke  to  the  east, 
south,  west,  and  north;  after  which  he  handed 
the  pipe  to  the  chief  next  to  him,  on  the  right, 
who  smoked  two  or  three  whiffs  and  passed  it  to 
the  next,  and  so  on,  until  it  had  gone  round  the 
company. 

The    provisions  were   now  brought   forward, 
composed  entirely  of  dog's  flesh,  and  placed  be- 
fore the  great  chief,  and  each  one  sent  his  dish  to 
him,    in  turn;  for  before   they  came,   everyone 
took  care  to  provide  a  dish  for  himself.     Some  of 
the    youth  attended  as   waiters  to  the  company. 
The  greatest  order  and  regularity  was  observed 
during  the  feast.     Each  one  considered  himself 
obliged  to  eat  all  that  was  sent  him  j  but  at  such 
feasts  it  is  seldom  more  than  they  can  devour  in 
a  few  minutes.     As  soon  as  the  feast  was  ended, 
fire   was    brought,    and  the    whole    commenced 
smoking,  which  was  continued  for  about  an  hour. 
The  smoking  then  ceased  and   the   dance    com- 
menced.    Their  music    consisted  of   beating  on 
buffaloe  skins,  shaking  dried  prarow  and  marten 
skins,  tied  up,  in  a  form  to  contain  small  stones, 
and  beating  on  a  kind  of  drum,  made  by  stretch- 
ing a   skin,  dressed  like  parchment,  over  the  end 
of  a   hollow  log  about  four  feet  long,  which   is 
joined  with   the  singing  of  the  company.     Their 
songs  are  a  rehearsal  of  the  exploits  of  themselves 
and  their  ancestors,   and  is    accompanied  with  a 
variety  of  antic  gestures.    In  all  their  movements 
they  keep  exact  time ;  dance  in  a  circle  around  a 


178 


'fire,  never  taking  hold  of  hands,  nor  touching  one 
another,  unless  by  accident.  The  dance  contin- 
ued until  near  morning.  When  the  dance  was 
closed,  all  retired  to  their  respective  quarters, 
perfectly  quiet  and  peaceable.  Although  the 
company  consisted  of  not  less  than  a  thousand 
people,  of  different  nations,  and  some  of  whom 
were  mortal  enemies  to  others,  there  was  not  the 
least  confusion  heard  during  the  day  or  night. 

The  Indians  are  extravagantly  fond  of  gam- 
bling, and  spend  most  of  their  leisure  hours  in 
it.  The  game  they  appear  most  attached  to  is 
played  with  eight  bones,  of  the  size  of  a  man's 
finger,  of  an  oval  form,  three  fourths  of  an  inch 
long,  with  four  square  sides,  two  of  which  are 
coloured  black  and  red.  They  are  placed  on 
wooden  trenchers,  or  oval  platters.  From  this 
dish  the  bones  are  tossed  into  the  air,  and  then 
caught  in  the  dish.  Thry  whi  or  lose  according 
to  the  number  of  a  certain  colour,  previously 
agreed  upon,  being  uppermost,  until  the  game  is 
finished,  which  is  always  forty-five.  Two  bands 
or  parties  will  play  at  this  game,  the  loser  rising 
and  letting  one  of  his  party  take  his  place,  until 
the  whole  band  has  had  a  part  in  the  game.  They 
often  play  for  all  the  property  they  possess,  and 
after  losing  that,  set  up  their  wives  and  childrt*^, 
for  they  are  considered  the  men's  property,  as 
much  as  their  arms,  or  any  thing  thi-y  possess. 
Another  game  is  played  by  means  of  small  sticks, 
five  inches  long,  of  the  size  of  a  goose  quill,  neatly 


iro   •  • 

polished  and  marked  with  red  and  black  lines. 
Forty  of  these  sticks  are  divided  between  the 
two  persons  who  play.  One  wraps  up  a  part  of 
his  sticks  in  grass,  the  other  matches  a  part  of 
his  to  them.  If  they  agree  in  number  or  colour 
of  the  lines,  the  one  that  matches  wins  five,  or 
otherwise  loses  the  same  number.  The  game  is 
always  forty. 

On  the  18th  of  May,  several  parties  of  Indians 
arrived  from  the  river  Chein,  for  the  purpose  of 
trading,  consisting  of  Dog  Indians^  Gefis-dis-valc/Lf 
Kaermis,  and  Kales.     A  trader  likewise   came  in 
from  the  Assinniboin  river.     They  all  assembled 
at  the  village,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Warriuna  riv- 
er, and  our  camp  moved  up  to  the  same  village. 
The  trader  soon  procured  what  furs  of  any  value 
they  had  to  dispose  of,  and  departed.  Mr.  Pardo, 
having  procured  a  supply  of  ammunition,  proposed 
to  ascend   the  Missouri,  on  a  hunting  expedition 
with   a  party  of  Grossventres'^^  with  whom  he 
was  connected  by  marriage.     His  wife  was  the 
daughter  of  the  chief  of  this  nation.     He  applied 
to  the  chief  of  our  camp,  to   whom  I  belonged, 
whose  name  is  Man-di-tongue-go,  for  liberty  for 
<me    to    accompany  him.     The   chief  consented 
that  I  should   go  with  him,  on  condition  that  I 
should  give  him  a  part  of  the  skins  I   procured, 
and  lent  me  an  old  musket.     There  were  three  of 

*  This  name  has  been  spelt  v/rong  and  altered,  but  still 
VTon}^.  The  true  spelling- is  found  to  be  GrossVantves,  ov 
fji'ossvcntres.    Also,  Assinniboin  Viver,  is  the  true  spelling. 


180 


the  Sioux,  one  of  whom    was  his  relation,  who 
agreed  to  go  with  us. 

We  started  on  the  2rth  of  May,  crossed  Mis- 
souri, and  arrived  the  same  evening  at  the  upper 
village.     This  village  is  situated  on  an  Island,  in 
the  Missouri,  and  is  fortified  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  lower  village,  containing  about  sixty  huts. 
Our  party  consisted   of  twenty-seven    men,   six 
women,  and  four  children  ;  none  of  the  Gross- 
Ventres   having  their  families  with  them.     The 
next  morning  we   proceeded,   and  soon   left  the 
Missouri,  travelling  a  northwest  course,  in  a  well 
beaten    path.       The   land    on   each  side  of    us 
ascended  into  high  ridges.     On  the  northern  side 
of  them,   was  considerable  timber,  mostly  cedar, 
and  the  land  poor.     The  path  continued   up  the 
vally,  but  often  passing  over  low  ridges.     On  the 
29th,  we  struck  a  branch  of  the  stream  called  by 
the  traders.  Ball  river.     We  followed  this  branch 
to  its  mouth.     Here  we  crossed  Ball  river.     We 
found  some  pleasant  intervals  on  this  river,  but 
most  of  the  land  is  poor,  dry  ridges,   with  very 
little  timber.     Our  company  soon  took  a  course 
more  northwardly,  until  we  came  to  the  mouth  of 
Chuss-chu   river.     Here  we  came  again  to   the 
banks  of  the  Missouri,  and  met  a  party  of  Man- 
dans,  hunting  buffaloe.  The  principal  game  found 
here  is   the   buffaloe,  cabree,  or  antelope,   black 
tailed  deer,  and  elk.     We  now  frequently  passed 
camps  of   Mandans,   and  on  the   5th  of  June, 
arrived  at  the  lowtr'Mandan  village.     This  vil- 


181 


lage,  which  is  above  the  great  bend  of  the  Mis- 
souri, is  situated  on  a  pleasant  interval,  cov- 
ered with  cotton  wood  and  cedar.  Is  built 
and  fortified  in  the  same  manner  as  those  of  the 
Rus. 

Here  a  sight,  new  to  me,  and  exceedingly  dis- 
igreeable,  arrested  my  attention  as  soc  as  I 
came  in  view  of  the  village.  This  was  their 
manner  of  depositing  the  bodies  of  the  deacT. 
Immediately  after  my  arrival  I  had  an  opportunity 
of  witnessing  the  meral  ceremonies  practised  by 
these  people,  wh  J\  was  in  the  following  manner. 
A  dead  body  \\  as  brought  out  of  a  hut,  and  laid 
on  the  ground  before  it,  dressed  in  its  best  ap- 
parel, and  wrapped  in  a  bufFaloe  robe.  The  rela- 
tions and  principal  part  of  the  people  in  the  vil- 
lage, assembled  around  it.  A  fire  was  then  made, 
and  the  sacred  stem,  or  pipe,  was  brought  and 
lighted.  The  deceased  having  been  a  warrior, 
an  eulogy  of  considerable  length  was  pronounced 
by  his  brother,  in  uhich  he  impressed  on  their 
minds,  the  great  importance  which  the  deceased 
man  had  been  to  thrir  nation  ;  rehearsed  his  war 
exploits,  and  concluded  by  urging  all  to  foUow  his 
example,  and  to  become  of  equal  usefulness  to 
their  tribe.  Then  they  would  be  sure  of  follow- 
ing and  becoming  companions  of  him,  and  all  the 
other  great  warriors,  which  had  died  before,  in 
the  world  of  spirits.  After  this  address  was 
closed,  provisions  were  brought  out,  consisting  of 
boiled  dog's  flesh,  of  which  the  company  just 
1& 


I 


'^.ts 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  {MT-3) 


.^ 


/:4^'  '^^ 


1.0 


I.I 


150    ^^^      IflnsiaSE 


2.2 


u: 


L2.    112.0 


1.25  i  1.4 


1.6 


^^ 


/I 


A 


;j^ 


t 


^^>\^  ^^M 


•* 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  HS80 

(716)  872-4503 


^^* 


# 


182 


tasted,  and  then  a  bowl  full  of  it  was  presented  to 
the  dead  man.  He  was  then  taken  up  by  four 
men  and  carried  outside  of  the  village,  just  into 
the  edge  of  the  woods,  and  placed  on  a  stage 
which  had  been  previously  erected,  about  ten 
feet  high.  The  bowl  of  food  wis  brought  and 
set  by  his  head,  and  his  arms  and  accoutrements 
laid  by  his  side.  In  this  manner  their  dead  are 
deposited,  and  are  never  buried.  The  wife  and 
relations  of  the  deceased  made  the  most  violent 
and  dreadful  bowlings,  tearing  their  hair,  and  ap- 
pearing to  be  in  the  deepest  anguish,  under  the 
loss  they  had  sustained. 

The  Mandans  and  Gross- Ventres  are  of  the 
lightest  complexion,  and  largest  Indians  on  the 
Missouri.  Their  hair  inclines  to  a  chesnut  col- 
our, and  in  some  instances  has  a  slight  curl ;  it 
is  never  so  lank  and  coarse  as  most  other  Indians. 
Their  eyes  are  full  and  lively,  their  cheek  bones 
rather  high,  and  their  countenances  open  ^nd 
agreeable.  The  Gross- Ventres  have  more  of  a 
fierce,  savage  look,  than  the  Mandans  who  are 
courteous  and  sociable  in  their  behaviour.  They 
are  neat  in  their  dress,  which  is  similar  to  that  of 
the  Rus,  excepting  that  they  decorate  it  with 
white  rabbit,  and  white  ermine  skins.  Many  of 
their  lodges,  or  huts,  are  decorated  in  a  beautiful 
manner ;  having  the  inside  lined  with  the  richest 
furs,  such  as  the  lynx,  beaver,  otter,  white  rabbit, 
martin,  fox,  mountain  cat,  and  white  ermine,sewed 
together  like  patch  work,  which  gives  them  a  rich 


183 


and  beautiful  appearance.     The  lodge  of  the  head 
chief  was  sixty  feet  in  diameter,  elegantly  lined 
with  furs,  and  the  seats,  which  are  also   used  as 
beds,  were  covered  with  the  grizzly  bear  and  buf- 
faloe  skins.     These  people  keep  their  lodges  and 
buildings  in  a  state  of  great  neatness.     They  cul- 
tivate the  same  kind  of  produce   with  the  Rus, 
and  carry  on  a  trade  with  the  roving  Indians,  who 
occasionally    visit   them.      The    Mandans    and 
Gross- Ventres  live  in   great  friendship,  although 
they  speak  different  languages  ;    and  it  is  neces- 
sary they  should,  for  their  villages  are  not  more 
than  six  miles  apart.     The  Mandans  speak  the 
same   tongue  of  the  Osage,  but  have  a  different 
accent,  and  dialect.  Th^y  were  once  a  numerous, 
warlike    people,    but  have  been  reduced  by  the 
small  pox,  and  by  their  enemies,  the  Sioux,  to  less 
than  four  hundred  warriors. 

On  the  the  13th,  we  left  the  Mandans,  and  ar- 
rived at  the  Gross-Ventres  village,  which  is  on 
the  lower  side  of  Batteau  river,  and  is  called  the 
Mtniture  village.  Another  village,  called  Men'i- 
tar'U'mht'Ud-tah^  ia  situated  on  he  upper  side  of 
Batteau  river.  These  villages  are  larger  than 
the  Mandans,  built  in  the  same  manner,  and  con- 
taining about  six  hundred  warriors,  und  about 
twenty-five  hundred  inhabitants.  They  were 
formerly  more  numerous,  but  the  small  pox  has 
made  its  ravages  among  them.  These  people 
deposit  their  dead  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Mandans,  but  at  a  greater  distance  from  tKeir  vil- 


184 


lages.  Soon  after 


r  arrival,  a  young  chief,  wha 
accompanied  us,  found  a  young   woman,    with 
whom  he  contracted  matrimony,  which  afforded 
an  opportunity  to  witness  their  aiarriage  ceremo- 
nies.     Proclamation  was  made,  by  one  of  the  re- 
lations, that  on  the  next  day,  in  the  morning,  the 
marriage  would  be  celebrated.     The  next  morn- 
ing  the  bride  Was  dressed  in  all  her  finery,  and 
Ihe  groom  in  his  richest  attire.     The  company- 
assembled  at  her  father's  lodge,  where  the  chief 
of  the  village  attended.     He  informed  the  com- 
pany, that  the  young  man,  calling  him  by  name, 
intended  to  take  the  girl,  calling  her  by  name,  to 
be  his  wife.     He  then  asked  each  of  them  if  that 
were  their  intention,  which  each  of  them  answered 
m  the  affirmative.     The  chief  then  handed  them  a 
small  rod,   which  was   broken    between    them. 
The  groom  then  broke  his  part  into  a  number  of 
small  pieces,  and  handed  them   to  the  men  who 
stood  near  to  him.     The  bride  did  the  same  with 
her  part  of  the  rod,  which  consumated  the  mar- 
riage.    Fire  was    then  brought,  and  the    sacred 
pipe  was  lighted.    After  all  the  men  had  smoked 
in  it,  the  dance  commenced,  which  was  continued 
for  several  hours.     As  soon  as  it  was   finished, 
the  groom  took  his  bride  to  his  lodge  to  live  with 
him. 

These  people  entertain  ideas  of  chastity  very 
different  from  any  civilized  nation.  If  a  stranger 
comes  to  reside  with  them  in  their  cabins,  for 
several  days,  he  is  presented  with  the  wife  or  a 


185 


Jaughter  to  be  his  bed-fellow,  during  his  stay* 
If  a  girl  proves  with  child,  it  has  no  influence  to 
prevent  her  marriage,  and  the  child  is  adopted  by 
her  husband,  and  brought  up  as  his  own.  Their 
hospitality  probably  exceeds  that  of  any  other 
people.  They  share  the  last  mouth  full  of  pro- 
visions chearfully,  with  the  greatest  stranger,  and 
strive  to  make  him  as  happy  and  contented  as 
possible. 

Our  party  now  prepared  to  set  out  for  the  sum- 
mer and  fall  hunt,  and  it  was  determined  to  go  to 
the  River  Jaun  or  Yellow  Stone,  and  to  the  Rocky 
mountain.      All  things  being  prepared  to  set  off, 
the  2d  of  July  was   assigned,   as  is  usual  among 
these  people,  for  a  day  of  feasting.     The  feast 
was  prepared,  and  the  ceremonies  conducted   in 
the  same  manner,  as  at  the  Rus  village,  which  has 
been  described*     After  the  smoking  rite  was  fin- 
ished, the  head  chief  of  the  village  addressed  us. 
He  commended  u«  to  the  care  of  the  Great  Spirit, 
and  all  the  good  subordinate  spirits,  wishing  us  a 
bright  sun  and  clear  sky,  that  we  might  overcome 
any .  enemy  we  might  meet ;  that  the  evil  spirits 
would  not  spread  sickness  among  us,  and  that  all 
of  us,  in  due  season,  should  return  to  the  village, 
loaded  with  meat  and  skins.  The  day  was  closed 
with  feasting  and  dancing. 

On  the  3d  of  July,  the  party  assembled  to  the 

number  of  forty-three  men,  women  and  children  ^ 

nineteen  of  whom  were  men,  besides  Mr.  Pardo 

and  myself.     We  were  provided  with  thirty-si» 

*6* 


186 


horses,  one  I  had  hired  for  myself,  and  Mr.  Pardo 
had  two  for  himself  and  squaw.  About  noon  we 
left  the  village,  and  proceeded  up  the  Batteau 
river,  until  we  passed  the  second  large  fork,  and 
then  we  crossed  it  to  the  north  side.  The  river 
here  was  about  an  hundred  yards  wide,  and  ford- 
able.  The  country  was  barren  and  hilly.  On 
the  7th,  we  came  to  Salt  springs,  where  buffaloe 
and  cab-  ee  were  very  plenty ;  and  the  country 
much  infested  with  wolves,  which  were  very  rav- 
enous. Some  Indians  had  very  lately  removed 
from  this  place.  We  supposed  them  to  have  been 
some  of  the  Gens-di-foulers^  who  live  three  miles 
below  the  Gross-Ventres,  on  the  Missouri.  We 
occupied  their  camp,  and  continued  here  until  the 
9tii,  when  we  proceeded  a  western  course,  crossing 
a  barren  country  destitute  of  timber.  On  the 
10th,  we  came  to  a  branch  of  the  Jaun,  called 
Road  river,  and  followed  this  branch  down  to  its 
mouth;  where,  on  the  15th,  we  arrived  at  the 
River  Jaun,  and  encamped  in  a  cotton  wood 
grove.  The  country  near  the  Jaun  is  more  level, 
and  some  of  the  intervals  are  very  rich ;  but  large 
barren  hills  are  to  be  seen  at  a  distance  from  the 
river.  A  party  of  the  Gens-des-corbeau^  or  Crow 
Indians,  had  lately  encamped  at  this  place,  and 
their  tent  poles  accommodated  us.  The  river  is 
about  half  a  mile  wide,  and  shallow,  but  not  ford- 
able.  We  supposed  ourselves  about  a  hundred 
miles  from  the  mouth.  Here  we  caught  a  number 
of  very  fine  fish,  mostly  pike  and  cat.     On  the 


.  Pardo 
oon  we 
3atteau 
rk,  and 
le  river 
d  ford- 
^.  On 
sufFaloe 
:ountry 
;ry  rav- 
:moved 
i^e  been 
e  miles 
i.  We 
intil  the 
rossing 
On  the 
called 
n  to  its 
i  at  the 
1  wood 
e  level, 
at  large 
•om  the 
»r  Crow 
ce,  and 
river  is 
ot  ford- 
lundred 
number 
On  the 


nOC£:Y.MOUjVTAJJV  >^M£JsiJ>. 


18T 


1 8th,  we  crossed  the  Jaun,  and  passed  up  to  the 
mouth  of  the  stream,  called  by  the  Indians,  La- 
ca-sha-newatu,  or  Crooked  river,  where,  on  the 
19th,  we  encamped. 

The  Jaun  is  a  noble  stream,  somewhat  rapid, 
the  bottom  sandy,  and  the  water  clear;  excepting 
when  rain  falls,  and  then  it  becomes  immediately 
thick  from  the  earth  that  is  washed  into  it  from 
the  barren  hills.  Many  of  these  hills  are  so 
washed,  and  become  so  steep,  that  no  animal  can 
ascend  the»n,  except  the  cabree  ani  mountain 
ram,  or  rocky  mountain  sheep.  The  grizzly 
or  white  bear,  is  plenty  in  this  country,  and  often 
attacks  the  natives.  We  continued  at  this  camp 
until  the  29th,  and  then  proceeded  up  Crooked 
river,  and  encamped  near  the  first  ridge  of  moun- 
tains. Here  've  killed  several  of  these  rocky 
mountain  sheep.  The  male  is  considerably 
larger  than  the  female,  and  has  much  longer 
horns.  The  horns  of  a  male  which  we  killed, 
measured  three  feet  in  length,  and  five  inches 
diameter,  at  his  head.  This  animal  is  taller  than 
a  deer,  and  has  a  larger  body.  It  is  covered  with 
soft  hair  of  a  dun  colour,  gradually  becoming  of 
g  lighter  colour  towards  the  belly,  which  is  en- 
tirely white.  Its  horns  are  shaped,  in  every  res- 
pect, like  the  horns  of  rams,  of  the  common  sheep, 
bending  backwards,  but  have  many  rough  knobs. 
Its  tail  resembles  that  of  the  red  deer.  The  legs 
and  feet  resemble  the  sheep,  but  the  hoofs  some 
what  longer.     It  is  swift  and  climbs  the  clifts  of 


188 

rocks  with  so  much  agility  and  ease,  that  no  other 
animal  can  follow  it ;  and  by  this  means  it  es- 
capes the  wolves.  Its  flesh  is  esteemed  equal  to 
that  of  the  deer. 

On  the  3d  of  August,  we  moved  up  into  the 
mountains  and  met  with  a  camp  of  Gens-de-panse 
or  the  Paunched  Indians.     We   encamped  witli 
thtm  for  the  night,  and  on  the  4th,  about  noon, 
we  had  like  to  have  been  defeated,  by  a  monstrous 
white  bear.     Four  or  five  of  the  men  were  ahead, 
and  turning  the  point  of  a  steep  hill,    they  met  a 
White  bear,  and  fired  upon  him,  but  only  wounded 
him.     He   immediately  turned  upon  them,    and 
they  retreated.     At  the  point  of  the  hill  they  met 
the  rest  of  the  party,  the  bear  pursuing  close  to 
their  heels,  which  threw  the  whole  pal-ty  into  con- 
fusion.     Not  being  room   for  us  to  escape,  the 
bear  was  m  a  moment  in  the  midst  of  us.    As  one 
man  turned  and  attempted  to  run,  the  bear  seized 
his  buffaloe  robe,  and  had  not  the  fastening  given 
way     would    have   drawn  him  under  his   paws. 
While  he  was  spending  his  rage  on  the  robe,  one 
of  the  men  shot  him  dead  on  the  spot.     As  soon 
as  he  fell,  the  whole  party  made  the  air  ring  with 
their  shouts.     This   bear  was  much  larger  than 
the    black  bear.       The  meat   only  would    have 
weighed   more  than  four  hundred  pounds.     The 
mountains  here  are  steep,  and  some  of  their  points 
and  sides  are  covered  with  a  small  growth,  mostly 
of  the  spruce  kind.    The  stream  we  were  ascend, 
ing  IS  wiDding,  interrupted,  and  fuU  of  rapids, 


189 

but  it  IS  about  oric  hundred  yards 'wide.     We  en- 
camped in  a  large  interval,   at  the    mouth  of  a 
small  stream,  and  continued  here  until  the  12th. 
The  fur  animals  had  now  just  done  shedding,  so 
that   we  only  hunted  the    buffaloe,  cabree,   and 
mountain  sheep.     A  party  was   sent  to  gain  the 
summit  of  a  ridge,  so  as  to  pass  over  to  the  other 
side,  while  the  rest  of  us  crawled  up,  surrounding 
them  on  every  side,  excepting  towards  the  river. 
As  soon  as  the  signal  was  given,  by  those  who 
had  ascended  and  gained  the  opposite  side,  we  all 
raised  a  sudden  yell,  and  sprang  out  of  the  grassy 
and  the  affrighted  animals  instantly  fled  from  ua, 
pitched  over    the    precipice,    and  were   dashed 
against  the  stones,  at  the  bottom,  where  we  killed 
sixty-one.     Some  of  them  fell  nearly  two  hundred 
feet ;  but  some  of  them,  which  were  near  the  bot- 
tom, made  their  escape.     It  took  us  several  days 
to    dress   and  cure  the   meat.     The    method  in 
which  these  people  cure  their  meat  is  to  cut  it  into 
thin  slices,  and  dry  it  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  or  a 
slow  fire.  They  use  no  salt  to  preserve  it.    Meat 
will  continue    in  this  state,  if  well  dried,   for  a 
longtime.  We  killed  a  wildcat,  which  resembled 
the  domestic  cat,  and  was  of  about  the  same  size. 
It  was  of  a  sallow  colour,  and  had  a  tail  nearly 
of  the  length  of  the  body.     This  little  animal  is 
very  fierce,    ^d  often  kills  cabree  and  sheep,  by 
jumping  on  their  necks,  and  eating  away  the  sin- 
ews and  arteries   until  they  fall,    and  then  sucks 
the   blood.     On    the   25th,   we  proceeded   up, 


190 


eighteen  miles,  to  the  mouth  of  a  large  fork  cf 
the  river,  which  comes  from  the  north,  and  en- 
camped on  a  plain.  At  this  encampment,  the 
snow-topped  mountains  appeared  to  be  at  no  great 
distance.  Here  we  found  beaver  in  plenty ;  and 
as  the  fur  had  become  good,  we  began  to  trap 
them.  One  of  the  Indians  killed  a  beautiful 
wild  cat,  about  one  half  larger  than  the  house  cat. 
Its  fur  was  long  and  exceedingly  fine,  covered 
with  black  and  white  spots  on  a  bright  yellow 
ground.  Its  belly  was  pale  yellow,  and  its  tail 
uoout  two  inches  long.  It  is  the  richest  looking 
skin  I  ever  saw.  On  the  28th,  we  killed  two 
grizzly  bears.  In  the  evening  we  had  a  severe 
storm  of  hail,  and  the  hail  stones  which  fell  were 
larger  than  musket  balls.  Here  the  mountain 
sheep  are  plenty,  but  they  keep  mostly  on  high 
ridges  and  the  tops  of  the  inaccessible  mountains, 
On  the  30th,  moved  further  up  the  river,  and 
caught  a  number  of  the  lynx,  marten  and  ermine. 
The  ermine  is  a  beautiful  little  animal,  as  white  as 
milk,  except  the  tip  of  the  tail,  which  is  of  a  jet 
black.  On  the  2d  of  September,  had  a  heavy 
shower  of  snow,  after  which  we  returned  to  our 
encampment  of  the  28th  of  August.  We  contin- 
ued trapping  here  until  the  12th,  when  we  crossed 
the  river,  took  a  branch  which  comes  from  the 
southward,  and  followed  it  up  about  six  miles, 
where  we  encamped  in  a  small  bottom.  Here  we 
found  fur  plenty,  and  caught  a  number  of  b'^aver, 
Otter,  marten,  ermine,  and  two  spotted  wild  cats. 


191 


Buffaloe  were  plcntv,  but  as  we  hz6  secured  as 
much  meat  as  we  could  cavry,  we  seldom  troubled 
them.  On  the  i6th,  we  proceeded  about  ten 
milts  lunhtr,  and  continued  here  until  the  24th, 
when  having  loaded  our  horBcs,  we  crossed  over 
a  mountain,  aud  enciunped  on  a  branch  of  Big- 
horn river.  The  weather  was  cold,  and  frequent 
showers  of  snow  made  the  travelling  diffirult. 
Here  the  str  gm  w  as  rapid,  about  thirty  yards 
wide,  and  winding  its  way  amongst  the  steep 
mountains.  V^-  were  however  obliged  frequently 
to  cross  it  ourselves,  with  our  horses  loaded  with 
as  much  as  they  could  carry.  On  the  28.1  ^  we 
came  to  a  camp  of  the  Crow  Indians,  where  we 
rested  until  the  30th,  when  we  continued  our 
course  down  the  river. 

The  Crow  Indians  speak  either  the  Mandan  or 
Gross- Ventres  tongue,  or  both  of  those  languages. 
They  left  the  camp  and  accompanied  us.  Here 
we  found  the  travelling  leso  difficult  than  it  had 
been.  On  the  3d  of  October,  we  passed  two 
camps,  and  on  the  5th,  several  more  camps,  on 
our  way  to  Big-horn  river,  where  we  arrived  at 
night.  On  the  south  side  is  a  winter  camp  of 
the  Crow  Indians,  consisting  of  forty-three  huts. 
These  huts  were  sunk  three  feet  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  but  otherwise  are  built  nearly  sim- 
ilar to  those  of  the  Gross- Ventres.  In  the  centre 
a  post  is  erected,  with  notches  cut  in  it  for  stepsj 
and  a  hole  is  left  open  at  the  top  of  it,  sufficiently 
large  for  a  man   to    crawl    out,    which  is   their 


193 

passage  out  and  in,  during  the  winter.  At  this 
encampment  we  prepared  our  buffaloe  skin  canoes, 
to  descend  the  Big-horn  river,  which  is  large, 
being  three  hundred  yards  wide,  with  a  strong 
current.  On  the  9th,  we  embarked,  for  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  having  detached  eight  Indians 
to  proceed  with  the  horses  by  land.  At  night;  we 
stopped  at  a  camp  of  Crow  Indians.  Early  in 
the  morning  of  the  10th,  we  again  proceeded,  the 
current  very  rapid,  and  at  night  encamped.  On 
the  11th,  we  proceeded  early,  and  at  night,  ar- 
rived at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  Here  is  a  village 
of  Crow  Indians,  but  of  a  different  band  from 
those  we  met  with  in  the  mountains.  The  Crow 
Indians  are  divided  into  four  bands,  which  they 
distinguish  by  the  following  names,  Ah-hah-hee- 
no'pah,  Nootsa-pah-zascih^  Keet-keet-sah^  and 
Ehart'sah,  This  village  belongs  to  the  Nootsa- 
pah-zasah  band.  The  band  we  had  left  was  the 
Keet-keet-sah^2iw6.  is  the  largest  of  them,  consisting 
of  two  hundred  warriors.  The  band  here  con- 
sists of  one  hundred  and  sixty  warriors.  This 
band  had  lately  been  on  a  war  expedition  against 
a  nation  of  Indians,  who  reside  on  the  west  side 
of  Rocky  mountains,  called  Pal-lo-to-path^  or 
Flat-heads,  and  had  returned  with  sixteen  pris- 
oners, and  a  number  of  sccrlps. 

The  Fiat-heads  have  a  singular  practice  of  flat- 
tening their  heads,  which  is  different  from  any 
other  nation  of  Indianes  in  this  countrv.  It  is 
effected  in  the  following  manner.     Soon  after  an 


h  ; 


!         I 


V 


■^ 


^'o 


k  a  Child  n>kk  Ushtad  In  die  Frame, 


idj 


t 


infant  is  born,  two  boards  are  prepared,  by  draw- 
ing a  dressed  skin  over  them.  One  board  is 
longer  than  the  other,  and  the  longest  is  placed  on 
the  back  part  of  the  head,  extending  from  the 
neck  about  eight  inches  above  the  head  ;  the 
shortest  board  is  placed  against  the.  forehead, 
from  the  eyebrows,  and  meets  the  upper  end  of 
the  other  board.  It  is  then  laced  together  at  the 
sides,  and  the  head  of  the  child  is  thus  confined 
between  these  boards,  until  the  child  has  grown 
to  a  considerable  bigness.  After  the  head  is  be- 
come sufficiently  flattened,  it  is  taken  out  of  this 
compress.  One  of  the  prisoners  had  her  infant 
child  with  its  head  in  the  frame.  I  also  saw  some 
of  the  prisoners  which  were  two  or  three  years 
old,  who,  I  was  informed,  had  the  frame  on  when 
they  were  taken.  This  compression  forms  the 
head  into  the  shape  of  a  wedge,  swelling  it  out 
over  the  ears,  and  gives  the  head  a  very  singular 
shape.  These  people  are  of  sSl  middle  stature, 
well  formed,  and  of  a  pleasant  countenance.  Their 
skin  of  an  olive  colour,  hair  lank  and  coarse,  and 
ther  features  regular  and  .handsome.  The  men 
had  a  bone  passed  through  the  gristle  of  the  nose, 
which  separates  the  nostril,  that  extended  the 
width  of  the  face.  All  the  hair  on  their  heads 
was  pulled  out,  except  a  lock  on  the  crown,  which 
was  left  to  grow  its  full  length.  This  tuft  of  hair 
was  divided  into  two  parts,  tied  up  in  a  short  cue, 
and  fell  over  each  ear*  Their  dress  consisted  of 
nothing  more  than  leggins  and  moccasons,  ex- 
17 


194 

cepting  a  young  chief,  who  had  a  belt  of  white 
ermine  skins  round  his  middle,  and  a  necklace  of 
white  bear's  claws  around  his  neck.  All  the  men 
were  tattooed  on  the  breast,  with  two  long,  and 
one  short  line,  drawn  horizontally,  but  on  no  other 
part  of  the  body.  The  women  wear  their  hair 
tied  up  in  two  clubs,  which  hang  over  each  ear, 
and  a  long  braid  down  the  back.  They  were  not 
tattooed,  nor  do  they  wear  any  ornaments,  except 
beads  of  their  own  make,  formed  out  of  sea  shells, 
about  the  size  of  a  barberry.  Their  dress  con- 
sisted of  a  buffaloe  robe,  or  a  mountain  sheep 
skin,  thrown  over  their  shoulders,  ground  hog 
skins  sewed  together,  with  the  tails  hanging  out  on 
the  fur  side,  fastened  round  their  middle  with  a 
belt  of  raw  hide. 

On  ihe  13th,  a  large  party  of  Snake  Indians 
arrived.  This  nation  resides  principally  on  the 
head  waters  of  the  Big-horn  river,  and  in  the 
most  inaccessible  parts  of  the  rocky  mountains, 
where  they  have  frequendy  to  hide  in  caverns 
from  their  enemies.  Owing  to  their  defenceless 
situation,  they  become  an  easy  conquest  to  any 
nation  disposed  to  attack  them ;  and  they  are  fre- 
quently attacked  for  no  other  reason,  than  the 
pleasure  of  killing  them.  Their  appearance  be- 
spoke their  distressed  situation  to  which  they  are 
reduced.  The  complexion  of  these  Indians  is 
dark,  but  their  features  are  regular,  although 
their  visage  is  thin,  and  their  eyes  pretty  much 
sunk  into  their  heads.  Their  bodies  are  frequently 


i 


I 


195 


crooked,  a  thing  very  rarely  to  be  seen  among 
Indians  ;  of  a  small  size,  thin  and  slender.  Both 
men  and  women  have  their  hair  hanging  loose  on 
their  heads,  and  only  cut  short  over  their  eyes. 
Their  dress  consists  only  of  mountain  sheep,  ca- 
bree  or  deer  skins,  thrown  over  their  shoulders. 
The  women  sometimes  wore  a  girdle  of  loose 
bark,  tied  round  their,  middle,  which  was  but  an 
indifferent  covering.  Their  ornaments  consisted 
of  white  bear's  claws,  and  a  few  beads.  The  men 
were  armed  with  the  Casoe-tite,  or  war  club,  a 
target  or  shield  made  of  raw  buffaloe  hides,  a 
dagger  made  of  bone,  ten  inches  long,  and  a  small 
bow.  We  were  the  first  white  people  wiiich  either 
they,  or  the  Flat-heads  had  ever  seen.  The  Flat- 
heads,  likewise,  arm  themselves  with  the  war  club, 
in  which  a  bone  is  fastened  that  projects  three 
inches,  a  bone  dagger,  and  sometimes  one  made 
of  iron,  which  they  work  out  themselves,  ten 
inches  long,  and  three  wide,  at  the  handle  ;  a  spear 
pointed  with  bone  or  iron,  and  when  they  cross 
the  mountains  to  hunt  the  buffaloe,  they  carry  a 
bow  with  them.  The  buffaloe  is  not  found  on 
the  west  side  of  the  Rocky  mountains,  and  there 
these  people  subsist  on  fish  and  roots. 

Our  horses  arrived  on  the  15th,  and  on  the 
16th,  we  embarked,  to  ascend  the  Jaun  river. 
On  the  1  rth,  came  to  a  camp  of  the  Paunch  In- 
dians, where  we  halted  for  the  horses.  These 
Indians  reside  mostly  towards  the  head  waters  of 
the  river  Jaun,  and  the  branches  of  the  Big-horn. 


1§6    , 

They  are  a  large,  well  looking  people,  somewhat 
irtclined  to  corpulency.     From  this  circumstance 
they  have  acquired   the  name  of   Gens-de-Panse, 
but  they  call  themselves  All-ah-kaa-wiah.     They 
speak  a  different  language  from  the  Gross- Ven- 
tres.     Their  arms   consist   of  bows  and  spears, 
with  buffaloeskin  targets,  much  larger  than  those 
made   use  of  by  the  Snake  Indians,  and  so  thick 
and  firm  that  an  arrow  will  not  pierce  them.  They 
use  a  short  bone  dagger,  and  the  war  club.  A  few 
of  them  had  guns,  but  no  ammunition.  Many  of 
the  Crow  Indians  and  Gross- Ventres,  are  armed 
in  the  same  manner. 

On  the  18th,  our  horses  arrived,  and  we  pro- 
ceeded,  passing  many  camps  of  Indians,  and  halted 
at  night  on  an   island,  where  we   killed  a  large 
white  bear.  The  river  is  rapid  but  has  no  obstruc- 
tion.    The  ice  now  began  to  float,  which  ren- 
dered our  navigation   dangerous   in   such  slight 
vessels.     Here  the  Rocky  mountains  may  be  seen 
at  a  distance  to  the  westward  ;  but  the  land  near 
the  river  is  mostly  level,  and  though  destitute  of 
timber,  is  apparently  of  a  good  soil.    The  general 
course  of  the  river  is  to  the  north,  and  sometimes 
west  of  north.     On  the  22d,   we  arrived  at  the 
mouth  of  a  large   branch  which  comes   from  the 
southeast,   and  encamped  to  wait  for  the  horses. 
About  six  miles  up  this  branch,  a  party  of  Crow 
Indians  were  encamped,   and  intended  to  spend 
the  winter.     On  the  25t.h,the  horses  arrived,  and 
as  the  ice  ran  thick,  took  out  our  bouts,  and  ei^ 


i9r 


camped  for  the  winter.  Our  encampment  was  in 
a  grove  of  cotton  wood,  and  willows,  and  we 
formed  as  comfortable  huts  as  possible.  Mr. 
Pardo  and  myself  built  one  for  our  own  accom- 
modation, with  one  adjoining  for  our  horses. 

On  the  3d  of  November,  the  buffaloes  descended 
from  the  mountains  in  vast  droves.     The  plains 
were  covered  with  them  and  with  elk.     The  In- 
dians hunt  the  buffaloe  on  horse  back,  with  a  bow 
and  a  short  spear.     They  ride  as  near  as  possi- 
ble to  the  gang,  and  discharge  their  arrows,  while 
the  animals  are  fighting  their  dogs.     A  wounded 
buffaloe,  if  he  does  not  fall,  frequently  turns  upon 
the  hunter,  who  depends  upon  the  dexterity  of  his 
horse,  which  has  been  trained  up  to  the  business, 
for  his  escape.    He  then  discharges  more  arrows, 
and  dispatches  the  animal  with  his  spear.     These 
hunts  are  attended  with  considerable  danger,  and 
sometimes  with  the  loss  of  both  horse  and  rider. 
The  country  in  which  we  were  encamped  is  level 
to  the  south,  but  to  the  north  and  west  the  moun- 
tains are  in  sight,  with  steep  ridges^  approaching 
the  river ;    and  to  the  east  is  a  large  mountain^ 
entirely    insulated    from  the    Rocky  mountains, 
called  the    Turtle,       This    mountain,   with  the 
country  round  it,  is  covered  with  timber.     Large 
bands  of  Indians  encamp  near  it,  during  the  win- 
ter for  the  conveniency  of  wood.     In  some  places, 
wood  is  so  scarce  that  they  perish  with  cold ,^  for 
want  of  it. 
17* 


198 


The  extensive  country  on  the  Jaun,  or  Yellow 
river,  is   exceedinp^ly  fertile.     Towards  its  head 
waters    the  land    is  covered  with  large    timber. 
Grapes   grow  in  great  abundance  wherever  any 
trees  or  brush  are  to  be  found.     There  are  vast 
thickets  of  plumbs,  cherries,  and  crab  apples.  The 
country  is  mostly  level  to  the  foot  of  the   Black 
mountains,  which  the  Indians  say,  are  completely 
separated  from  Rocky  mountains.     A  large  river 
passes  between  them,  which  runs  to  the  southward. 
The  range  of  the  Black  mountains  is  from  east  to 
west,   but  the    Rocky  mountains    extend    from 
north  to  south.     The  former  are  about  four  hun- 
dred miles  south  of  our  winter  encampment,  as 
the  Indians  compute   the  distance.     They  repre- 
sent   the  country  as   fertile  beyond  description, 
and  as  inhabited   by  numerous  bands  of  Indians. 
The  buffaloe,  elk,  cabree,  deer,  black  and  white 
bears,  are  found  there,  in  vast  multitudes.     The 
Manclarie  Indians  are  often  at  war  with  a  nation, 
v.'hich  resides   in   the   Black   mountains,   called, 
J-a-kar-tha^  who  speak  the  same  tongue  with  the 
Snake    Indians  or  the    Aliatans    of  the    Rocky 
mountains.      This  nation  has  also  obtained  the 
nick  name  of  Snake  Indians,  from  the   same  cir- 
cumstance ;  that  is,  because  they  hi(le  themselves 
in  caverns  and  among  the  rocks,  to  conceal  them- 
selves from  their  enemies,  from  whence  they  are 
dragged  out  and  killed  like  snakes.  They  are  also 
held   in   great  contempt  by  other  nations,    who 
consider  them  .o  be  too  mean  to  have  existence. 


I 


199 


The  Indians  say,  that  vast  numbers  of  horses  and 
mules  abound  in,  and  about  the  Black  mountains. 
Towards  the  mouth  of  the  River  Jaun,  the 
country  is  open,  level,  with  extensive  prairies,  or 
natural  meadows,  covered  with  high  grass,  but 
no  wood,  excepting  cotton  wood,  willows,  and  a 
few  cedars.  On  the  north  side  of  the  Missouri, 
near  the  Rocky  mountains,  resides  a  nation  of 
Indians,  who  are  numerous,  and  who  are  the  in- 
veterate enemies  of  the  Grosr- Ventres  and  Cro\f 
Indians,  and  frequently  fall  on  their  hunting  par- 
ties. Tneir  are  called  Black-foot  Indians.  I 
saw  one  of  this  nation,  who  was  a  prisoner  taken 
by  the  Crow  Indians.  He  was  a  large,  well  made, 
and  his  complexion  as  light  as  the  Gross- Ventres. 
They  are  a  roving  nation,  have  no  villages,  nor 
do  they  raise  any  kind  of  produce. 

The  weather  becoming  mild,  on  the  12th  of 
March,  1803,  we  moved  up  the  river  on  which 
we  had  encamped,  called  by  the  Indians  Nan-tU' 
se-car,  or  Stillwater  river,  which  is  about  sixty 
yards  wide.  On  the  15th,  came  to  salt  springs, 
and  boiled  some  of  the  water.  On  the  18th, 
procured  a  small  quantity  of  salt,  which,  to  me, 
was  a  great  relief,  as  I  had  lost  my  appetite  for 
want  of  it  j  not  having  tasted  any  for  mor;.  J.an 
three  months.  On  the  19thi  moved  our  encamp- 
ment on  to  high  land,  the  Salt  springs  being  in  a 
low  interval,  to  avoid  the  water  produced  by  the 
melting  of  the  snow.  Here  the  Turtle  mountain 
appeared  at  a  great  distance,  in  a  southeast  dit^c- 


I40G 


tion.     On  the  24th,    the  snow  fell  about  a  foot 
deep.     We   proceeded  in   a  northerly  direction, 
and  encan.ped,  at  night,  on  a  small  stream,  and 
continued  io  the  30th,  owing  to  the  fleet  and  rain. 
On  the   30th,    we    continued    our  course,  in  the 
same  direction,  through  a  plain  country,  in  a  well 
beaten  path,  and  on  the  4th  of  April,  came  to  a 
branch  of  tho   Still-water  river,  where   we   en- 
camped   to   hnnt.     On  the  8th,    caught  several 
beaver,  otter,  and  white  rabits,  which  were  very 
numerous.     On  the  12th,  we  arrived  at  the  river, 
we  had  ascended  in  July,  called  Road  river,  and 
on  the  13th,  came  to  the  Salt  springs,  where  we 
procured  a  small  quantity  more  of  salt.     On  ♦he 
18th,    proceeded    to  the    mouth  of   Catteau,  or 
Knife  river,   where   we    arrived  on  the   24th  of 
April.    On  the  25th,  a  great  feast  was  made  with 
the  usual  ceremonies. 

We  left  the  upper  Gross- Ventres  village,  on  the 
4th  of  May,  in  company  with  a  large  number  of 
Indians  for  the  trading  post  on  the  Assinniboin 
river,  distant  about  one  hundred  miles,  and  on  the 
11th,  arrived  at  the  station.  I  had  formed  a  de- 
termination to  leave  the  Indians  at  this  place,  but 
V  :v,  prevent  1  by  the  Sioux  Indians,  who  were 
with  us.  The  Sioux  Indian,  who  was  a  relation 
to  the  chief,  was  offered  a  musket,  knife,  and 
hatchet,  if  he  would  let  me  go,  but  he  refused, 
declaring  that  I  must  go  with  him  to  his  uncle. 
The  traders  not  being  willing  to  offend  the  In- 
dians, I   was  oblicred  to   remain  wWli  tht^rv^      n« 


201 

the  5th  of  Jane,  I  parted  with  Mr.ParJo  and  my 
former  companions,  and   went  with   a  party  of 
Sioux,  of  the  Tilon  Okandanas  band,  for  the  heads 
of  Saint  Peter's  river.     The  chie''    Man-da-ton- 
que-quoy    was  gone  with  part  ot   uie   Bois-bvuil 
band.     On   the  15th,  we  came  to  a  band  of  the 
Bois-bruil,  on  Saint  Peter's  river,  but  the  chief 
was  not  with  them.     He  had  gone  with  a  small 
party  to  meet  a  band  of  Tanton-ansah  Sioux,  who 
were  proceeding  from  the  falls  of  Saint  Avithony, 
on  the  Mississippi,  where  they  had  been  to  pro- 
cure merchandize,  to  trade  with  the  other  bands. 
The  country  we  had  lately  passed  through,  was 
mostly  level,  swampy,  and  full  of  small  lakes, 
covered  very  thick  with  timber,  chiefly  pine  and 
spruce.     On  the    inh,  we  proceeded   down  the 
Saint  Peter's,  and  on  the  20th,  came  to  the  en- 
campment.    This  body  of  Indians  consisted  of 
five  bands;    the    Tanton-ansah,   Wah-pa-coo-tOy 
Titon-lois-bruil,   Titon-okan-danas,    and    Titon- 
sa-oo-nu,  about  four  hundred  warriors,  and  about 
one  thousand  four  hundred  people.   On  the  27th, 
the  bands  mostly  separated,  and  the  greater  part 
returned  to  the  Missouri^  among  whom  was  the 
Bois-bruil  band,  who  took  the   war  path.     The 
greatest  part  of  these  Indians  were  well  armed, 
and  mounted  on  good   horses,     On  the  12th  of 
July,  encamped  at  the  forks  of  the  River  Sasqui, 
a  branch  of  the  Missouri,     On   the  18th,  these 
bands  separated,  and  we  proceeded  tp  the  crossing 
of  the  three  rivers,  on  the  Missouri,   above  the 


202 


mouta  of  White  river.  On  *  ic  8th  of  August, 
we  arrived  at  the  Missouri,  and  a  party  of  us 
went  down  to  the  Salt  springs,  and  made  a  quan- 
tity of  salt.  The  water  in  the  River  Sasqui  and 
in  the  Three  rivers  is  so  brackish,  as  to  be  very 
disagreeable  to  drink  ;  and  many  other  streams  on 
the  Missouri  have  a  similar  taste.  On  the  20th, 
we  returned  to  the  encampment,  and  on  the  28th, 
I  went  with  a  party  up  the  Middle  fork  of  the 
Three  rivers,  to  hunt.  The  country  is  consider- 
ably broken,  and  destitute  of  timber  j  but  numer- 
ous salt  licks  and  a  plenty  of  game.  On  the  16th 
of  September,  we  returned,  having  loaded  our 
horses. 

We  remained  at  this  encampment  until  the 
27th,  when  we  moved  up  to  Teton  river.  I  ob- 
tained liberty,  on  the  3d  of  October,  to  go  to  the 
Rus  village.  Here  I  spent  the  winter  with  a 
number  of  trade-s  belonging  to  Saint  Louis.  The 
Sioux  are  enemies  to  the  traders,  who  follow  this 
employment  on  *the  Missouri.  They  hold  them 
in  the  greatest  contempt,  and  always  rob  them 
whenever  they  can  gtt  a  good  opportunity. 

On  the  12th  of  April,  1804,  the  traders  left  the 

village,  and   wtnt   up  the  River  Chcin,    or  Dog 

river,  to  trade.      The   chief   Mitn-da-tonque-qua 

came  to  the  village,  on  the    18th,   and   took   me 

with  him  on  to  the  Sioux  river,  where  we  arrived 

on  the  6th  of  May,  and  continued  until  the  12th 
«r  T 1 .  ]  *.-«  4.u~    r>:..„..  c..«».,: 

Ul   J  UUC,    WIICII    VVC      ICIIiUVCU    lU   llIC      ^ItVCi     i^aSLj^UI. 

On  the  26th  of  August,  a   report    was   spread 


203 

among  the  Indians,  that  a  party,  an  army,  ds  they 
called  it,  of  soldiers  were  coming  up  the  Mis- 
souri.'* After  dispatching  messengers  to  all  the 
Indians  near,  they  hastened  to  the  river,  leaving 
all  their  women  and  children  with  a  few  men  in 
the  encampment.  They  did  not  permit  me  to  go 
with  them.  On  the  25th  of  September,  a  council 
was  held  on  the  River  Sasqui,  to  deliberate  on 
the  object  this  army  should  have  in  view,  and  to 
determine  what  should  be  done.  Lengthy  debates 
took  place,  and  being  much  divided  in  sentiment 
whether  they  should  attack  them,  or  not,  they 
disolved  the  council  on  the  29th,  without  de- 
ciding what  should  be  done.  Another  council 
was  held  on  the  5th  of  November,  consisting  of 
a  much  larger  number,  when  they  came  to  a  de- 
termination to  .invite  the  Rus  to  join  them,  and 
to  attack  the  soldiers  early  in  the  spring.  They 
also  agreed  to  declare  war  against  the  Mandans 
and  the  Gross- Ventres.  During  the  winter,  large 
bodies  of  Indians  assembled  on  the  Sioux  river 
and  the  River  Sasqui,  near  to  the  Missouri. 

In  the  mean  time,  war  w?s  declared  against 
the  soldiers  and  agninst  the  Mandans  and  Gross- 
Ventres.     Early  in  the  spring  the  spies  they  had 

•The  army  reported  to  be  coming-  up  the  Missouri,  was 
doubtless,  the  piipty  under  the  command  of  Captain  Lewis 
and  Captain  Claike,  consisting-  of  forty -five  mc  bound  on  a 
voyage  of  discovery  to  the  Pacific  Ocean.  This .  rps  entered 
the  Missouri  on  ihe  i4ih  of  Moy,  1804,  and  passed  the  mouth 
of  the  River  Sasqui,  about  the  28th  of  August. 


204 

sent  out,  reported  that  the  soldiers  had  gone  fur- 
ther up  the  river,  so   that  on  the  4th  of  April, 
1805,  our  camp,  with  the  women  and  children, 
moved  on   .    the   Missouri.     Immediately  after 
I  arrived  here,  I  was  so  fortunate  as  to  become 
acquainted  with  Mr.  Paintille,  a  Frenchman,  who 
had  long  resided  in  the  country,  principally  with 
the  Titon-anah   band  of  Sioux.     We   concerted 
a  plan  for  making  an  escape  down  the  Missouri. 
As  he  had  a  light  canoe,  we  prepared  ourselves 
to   leave    the    Indians,    and  accordingly,  on  the 
night  of  the  26th  of  April,  we  were  so  happy  as 
to  make  our  escape   from  these  miserable  beings. 
In  ten   days  we   arrived  at   the  town    of  Saint 
John's,  which  is  the  upper  settlement  on  the  Mis- 
souri river,  and  from  thence  we  proceeded  to  the 
lower  settlements.     Here   I  found  myself  in  the 
full  enjoyment  of  a  freedom,  of  which  I  had  long 
been  deprived ;  having  been  a  prisoner  more  than 
three  years  and  six  months.     During  this  period 
I  had  been  subjected  to  many  severe   suiFerings. 
Although  I  had  always   been  well  treated  by  the 
Indians,  I  had  undergone  great  fatigues,  and  was 
often  much  distressed  for  provisions.     Frequent 
exposure  to  wet  and  cold,  and  the  inclemency  of 
weather,  brought  on  a  rheumatism,  whicu  became 
so  severe,  as  to  confin  e  me  eighteen  months  after 
I  had  obtained  my  liberty. 


APPENDIX. 


As  an  historical  sketch  has  been  g-iven  of  the  Indian  na- 
tions, within  what  is  considered  the  limits  of  Louisiana,  on 
the  western  side  of  the  river  Mississippi,  it  is  presumed 
that  some  account  of  the  natives  residing-  west  of  the  Alle- 
ghany mountains,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lakes,  would  be 
acceptable.  The  following  is  given  from  the  best  materials 
the  writer  was  able  to  procure.  To  ascertain  the  numbers 
of  each  nation,  with  any  great  degree  of  precision,  is  im- 
practicable. They  are  taken  principally  from  former  esti- 
mates, since  which  individual  natiofis  have  doubtless  consid- 
erably varied  in  number  Since  the  close  of  the  American 
revolutionary  war,  some  of  the  nations  have  increased  in 
population,  while  others  have  diminished.  Mr.  Imlay,  in 
his  history  of  Kentucky,  estiuiates  the  whole  number  of  In- 
dians, from  the  gulph  of  Mexico,  on  both  sides  the  Missis- 
sippi, to  its  head  waters,  to  the  gulph  of  Saint  Lawrence  ; 
and  as  far  v/est  as  the  country  has  been  explored,  between 
the  Missouri  and  Saint  aid  to  be  only  60,000  souls.  This 
estimation  must  be  much  less  than  their  real  number.  Mr. 
Purcell,  who  resided  among  ihe  Indians,  computes  only  the 
Creeks,  Chacktaws,  Chickasaws,  Cherokees,  and  Catabaws, 
in  the  year  17S0,  to  consist  of  13,516  warriors,  and  42,033 
souls.  The  roving  life  and  frequent  migrations  of  the  na- 
tives, increase  the  difficulty  of  asceMaining  the  number  of 
particular  nations.  Tribes  and  small  bands  often  separate 
from  their  nation,  and  form  confederacies  with  otlvers,  or 
find  some  new  place  of  residence.  After  the  establishment 
of  peace  by  General  Wayne,  at  Greenville,  in  1795.  at  which 
time  large  tracts  of  land  were  ceded  to  the  United  States, 
nearly  all  the  Indians  who  resided  on  the  lands,  to  which 
IB 


206 


their  claims  were  extinguished,  retread  back,  and  found  new 

places  of  residence. 

The  most  northern  and  eastern  nations,   near  the  lakes, 

are  the  Six  Nations.  Tlicy  have  been  bo  called  by  the  En- 
glish  and  Americans,  but  the  French  styled  them  Irquais. 
They  call  themselves  Jlganuschioni,  which  in  their  language, 
signifies  the  United  People.  This  confederacy,  which  con- 
sisted at  first  cf  only  five  nations,  is  of  ancient  date.  The 
nations  who  first  united  were  the  Mohawks,  Oneidas,  Onon- 
dagas,  Senecas,  and  Cayugas.  About  eighty  years  ago  they 
were  joined  by  the  Tuscaroras.  The  Mohawks  were  formerly 
at  the  head  of  the  confederacy,  and  were  a  very  powerful 
nation.  They  inhabited  on  Mohawk  river.  The  old  Mohawk 
town  was  at  the  mouth  of  Scliohavy  creek,  twelve  miles  west 
of  Schenectady,  which  was  not  entirely  abandoned  until 
1780.  Here  is  still  the  remains  of  an  old  church,  built  in 
the  reign  of  Queen  Ann,  They  were  strongly  attached  to 
Sir  William  Johnson,  and  the  Johnson  family.  About  300 
went  with  Sir  John  Johnson,  to  Canada  in  1776,  and  reside 
in  Upper  Canada,  on  the  northern  waters  of  Lake  Erie. 

At  the  time  of  the  American  revolution,  the  Six  Nations 
were  in  alliance  with  the  English,  engaged  on  their  side,  and 
made  great  depredations  on  the  ffontlers.    In  the  year  1779, 
the  American  troops  gained  a  complete  victory  over  them, 
and  destroyed  all  their  towns.     By  a  treaty  at  Fort  Stanwix, 
in  1784,  a  tract  of  land  was  assigned  them,  bordering  on 
Lake  Erie  and  Ontario,  and  a  quantity  of  goods  given  them 
for  their  use  and  comfort.    And  by  a  subsequent  treaty,  at 
Konon-daigua,  in  1794,  their  boundary  lines  were  varied,  in 
conformity  to  treaties  they  had  made  with  the  State  of  New 
York,  and  the  tract  confirmed  to  them  by  the  United  States. 
This  tract  is  called  the  State  Reservation^  on  which  they 
now  reside.  In  consideration  ofthe  extinguishment  of  their 
claims  to  other  lands,  and  to  secure  perpetuate  peace  and 
friendship,  the  United  States  delivered  to  tlie  Six  Nations, 
and  to  the  Indians  of  other  nations,  residing  among  them, 
and  united  with  them,  a  quaniiiy  of  goods  to  the  \alue  oi" 
lOjOOO  dollarsj'and  stipulated  an  annuity  of  4,500  dollars,  t« 


2or 


be  expended  yearly,  forever,  in  purchasing  clothing,  do- 
mestic animals,  implements  of  husbandj'y,  and  in  compensa- 
ting-useful  artificers,  who  shall  reside  with,  or  near  them, 
and  be  employed  for  their  benefit.  All  the  Mohawks  and  a 
considerable  part  of  the  Cayugas  have  migrated  to  Canada. 
It  is  thought  probable  they  will  all  quit  the  United  States, 
and  retire  over  the  Lakes  Ontario  and  Erie,  and  settle  with 
their  former  associates.  There  is  an  exact  census  of  all  these 
Indians  taken  annually.  The  number  of  souls,  in  1796,  ex- 
clusive of  the  Mohawks  and  Ciyugas  moved  into  Canada, 
was  3,298.  The  Stockbridge  and  Brotherton  Indians,  who 
are  united  with  them  and  reside  among  them,  are  1,210, 
making  the  whole  number  of  the  Six  Nations  4,508  souls. 
They  can  probably  furnish  about  1,406  warriors. 

The  Sachems,  chiefs  and  warriors  of  the  following  na- 
tions and  tribes,  having  met  together  at  Greenville,  on  a 
branch  of  the  Great  Miami,  General  Wayne  concluded  a 
treaty  of  peace,  harmony,  and  friendly  intcicourse  between 
the  United  States,  and  these  Indians,  on  the  3d  day  of  Au- 
gust 1795.  The  nations  and.  tribes  were  the  Wyandots,  Del- 
awares,  Shavvanoes,  Ottawas,  Chippewas,  Ottawa  from  Sai^- 
dusky  lake,  Putawatames  of  the  River  Saint  Joseph,  Puta- 
watames  of  Huron,  Miamles,  and  Eel-river,  Eel-river  tribe, 
Miarais,  Weeas  for  themselves  and  the  Piankashow,  Kika- 
poos,  Kaskaskias,  and  Delawares  of  Sandusky.  By  the  third 
article  of  the  treaty,  a  general  boundary  line  between  the 
lands  of  the  United  States,  and  the  lands  of  the  said  Indian 
tribes,  was  established.  All  the  land  lying  eastvvardly  and 
southwardly  of  the  general  boundary  line.  These  tribes 
ceded  to  the  United  States,  and  relinquished  all  their  claims 
forever.  They  also  made  a  cession  of  sixteen  pieces  of  land, 
of  diflerent  dimensions,  and  at  diflercnt  places,  within  their 
own  line,  as  an  evidence  of  returning  friendship,  and  to  pro- 
vide  for  the  accommodation,  convenient  intercourse,  and 
mutual  benefit  of  both  parties.  In  addition  to  these  cessions, 
the  said  tribes  relinquished  all  title  and  claim  which  they, 
or  uny  of  them,  may  iiave  to  the  tract  of  150,000  acres,  near 
the  rapids  of  the  Ohio  river,  which  has  been  assigned  to 


J208 


General  Clark  and  his  warriors  ;  a  tract  of  land  adjacent  tJ 
post  Saint  Vicennei,  on  the  Wabash,  to  which  the  Indian 
title  had  been  extinguished  ;  the  land  at  all  other  places  in 
possession  of  the  French  people  and  other  white  settlers 
among  them,  of  which  the  Indian  title  had  been  extin- 
guished ;  and  a  tract  at  Fort  Massac,  towards  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio. 

In  consideration  of  these  cessions,  and  with  a  view  to  pre- 
serve peace  and  a  friendly  intercourse,  the  United  States  de- 
livered to  these  tribes  a  qu.tntity  of  goods,  of  the  value  of 
20,000  dollars,  and  are  hence  forwarded  every  year  forever, 
to  deliver  them  like  useful  goods,  suited  to  the  circun:- 
stances  of  the  Indians,to  the  amount  of  9,500  dollars,vaUied  at 
the  place  where  they  are  procured.  These  goods  are  to  be 
delivered  in  the  following  proportions  ;  to  the  W}  andots,  the 
value  of  1,000  dollars  ;  to  the  Delawares,  1,000  dollars  ;  to 
the  Shawanese,  1,000  dollars  ;  to  the  Miamis,  1,000  dollars  ; 
to  the  Attawas,  1,000  dollars  ;  to  the  Chippewas  1,000  dol- 
lars ;  to  the  Putawatimes,  1,000  dollars  ;  and  to  the  Kicka- 
poos,  Weeas,  Eel-river,  Piankashaws,  and  Kaskaskias  tribes, 
500  dollars  each. 

The  Wyandots  inhabit  the  country  near  the  river  Saint 
Joseph  and  Fort  Detroit,  and  have  their  hunting  ground 
about  the  western  end  of  Lake  Erie.  Their  warriors,  some 
years  ago  were  two  hundred  and  fifty,  and  the  number  of 
souls  estimated  at  about  800.  A  tribe  of  the  Wyandots,  re- 
side  near  Sandusky,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  tribe  of  the 
Mohickons  and  Coghnawagas.  The  warriors  of  these  three 
tribes  were,  a  number  of  years  ago,  three  hundred,  and  the 
inhabitants  about  1,00^ 

The  Delaware  nation  emigrated  from  the  northern  parts 
of  Pennsylvania  and  New-Jersey,  and  probably  received  their 
name  from  their  residence  on  the  Delaware  river.  The 
name  by  which  they  called  themselves  was  Liiinilenape, 
which,  in  their  language,  signifies  Indian  Men.  They  were 
formerly  a  very  numerous  and  powerful  nation,  but  are 
much  reduced.  Before  the  scttlemenis  comnieneed  in  the 
Stale  of  Ohio,  their  villages  were  about  midway  between  the 


209 


Ohio  rivev  and  Lake  Erie,  on  the  Muskingum,  and  on  the 
^  branches  of  Beaver  Creek  and  Guychago,  but  they  have 
since  retired  to  the  country  about  Lake  Erie.  They  are 
naturally  ingenious,  intelligent  and  of  a  peacable  disposition, 
rarely  contending  with  any  of  the  neighbouring  Indian  tribes. 
Lately  they  were  hostile  to  the  Americans,  and  committed 
depredations.  The  number  of  their  warriors  has  been 
computed  to  be  six  hundred,  and  their  number  of  souls 
about  8,000. 

The  Shawanoes  resided  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Scidto 
and  the  northern  branches  of  the  Muskingum,  but  they  are 
now  on  Stone  creek,  which  empties  into  the  Great  Miami, 
and  at  the  Miami  villages.  They  have  been  able  to  raise  three 
hundred  warriors.  Parts  of  this  nation  hav«  emigrated  to 
the  southward  of  the  Ohio  river,  and  joined  the  Creek  con- 
federacy. It  has  been  said  of  the  Shawanoes  that  they  are 
generally  handsome  featured,  of  a  rather  small  size,  and  a 
very  chearful,  crafty  people  :  that  counselling  among  the 
old  people,  and  dancing  among  their  young  men  and  women, 
occupies  a  great  portion  of  their  lime. 

The  Ottawa  nation  is  divided  into  several  tribes  or  bands* 
The  largest  part  of  the  nation  live  not  far  distant  from  De- 
troit, and  hunt  about  Lake  Erie,  and  some  time  past,  could 
raise  four  hundred  warriors.  Another  part  resides  on  the 
eastern  side  of  Lake  Michigan,  about  twenty  miles  south- 
ward of  Michilimackinack.  Their  hunting  ground  is  between 
this  lake  and  Lake  Huron.  They  have  been  able  to  furnish 
about  two  hundred  warriors.  One  of  the  tribes  live  near  the 
Chippewas,  on  Saguinam  bay,  who,  together  had  two  hun- 
dred warriors.  Another  tribe  resides  near  Fort  Saint  Jo- 
seph, and  have  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  warriors.  And 
one  other  small  band  live  near  Sandusky,  who  are  supposed 
to  have  not  more  than  about  fifty  warriors. 

The  Chippewas  are  a  very  numerous  nation,  divided  into 
a  vast  number  of  tribes  and  bands,  which  are  scattered  over 
a  tract  country  represented  by  M'Kenzie,  to  extend  two 

ers  on  the  borders  of  Lake  Superior,  on  the  Chippewjty  riv- 
18* 


210 


er,  on  both  sides  of  Mississippi ;  and  as  far  to  the  westward 
as  the  Assinniboin  river.  Very  little  appears  to  be  known 
of  the  numbers  which  compose  this  nation.  The  tribes  iii- 
liabiting  the  coasts  and  islands  of  Lake  Superior,  according 
to  Hutchins,  can  furnish  one  thousand  warriors.  Those  re- 
siding in  the  country  about  Saguinam  and  Puan  bays,  and  on 
the  borders  of  Huron  and  Machigan,  together  with  the  tribes 
of  Saukees  and  Mynomanies,  who  live  near  them,  are  esti- 
mated at  five  hundred  and  fifty  warriors.  These  last  men- 
tioned tribes  were  hostile  to  the  United  States,  and  signed 
the  treaty  at  Greenville. 

The  Putanotimes  consist  of  two  tribes,  one  of  which  re- 
sides on  the  River  Saint  Joseph,  and  the  other  near  Detroit. 
Their  warriors  are  estimated  at  about  five  hundred.  These 
tribes  were  both  hostile  to  the  United  States,  and  were  par- 
ties in  the  treaty  at  Greenville. 

The  Miamies  who  signed  the  Greenville  treaty,  (it  is  pre- 
sumed) include  those  only  who  inhabit  the  village  of  that 
name  near  the  Miami  Fort.  Their  number  of  warriors  ia 
unknown. 

The  Miamis  nation  live  on  the  Miami  of  the  lakes,  and  on 
lands  soutliward  of  Lake  Michigan.  They  can  furnish  about 
three  hundred  warriors. 

The  Eel-river  Indians  reside  on  a  river  of  that  name, 
which  is  a  head  branch  of  the  Wabash.  Their  number  of 
warriors  cannot  be  ascertained. 

Kathtippacamunch  was  an  Indian  village,  situated  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Wabash  river,  at  the  mouth  of  Tippacanoe 
creek,  about  twenty  miles  above  the  lower  Weeatovvns.  In 
1791,  before  it  was  destroyed  by  Generals  Scott  and  Wilkin- 
son, it  is  said  to  have  "  contained  one  hundred  and  twenty 
houses,  eighty  of  which  were  shingle  roofed.  The  best 
houses  belonged  to  the  French  traders.  The  gardens  and 
improvements  round  were  delightful.  There  was  a  tavern 
with  cellars,  bar,  public  and  private  rooms  ;  and  the  whole 
marked  no  small  degree  of  order  and  civilization." 

Not  far  distant  from  the  mouth  of  Tippacanoe  creekj  is 
the  town  of  the  mucli  fanQedlndian  Prophet,  who  is  said  to 
be  %  Shawajioes. 


211 


The  piankashaws,  Kickapoos,  Musquitons,  and  Ouiatanos, 
are  tribes  on  the  branches  of  the  Wabash  and  Illinois 
rivers.  They  could  raise,  according  to  Hutchins,  one  thou- 
sand warriors.  Other  tribes  of  the  Kickapoos  reside  at  the 
entrance  of  Lake  Superior,  and  could  raise  four  hundred 
warriors.  Another  tribe  inhabits  with  the  Otutagamies  and 
Musquateys,  between  Michigan  and  the  Mississippi,  who 
together  had  one  thousand  warriors. 

The  Naudowesies  live  between  Michigan  and  Lake  Su- 
perior, and  have  five  hundred  warriors.  The  Killistinoes  on 
Lake  Superior,  and  have  two  hundred  and  fifty  warriors. 
Mingoes  on  the  Scioto,  and  have  fifty  warriors  Lezars 
between  the  Wabash  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  The 
greater  part  of  these  Indians  have  taken  up  new  places  of 
residence.  They  had  three  hundred  warriors.  Outimaes, 
between  Michigan  and  Lake  Saint  Clair.  Warriors  two 
hundred.  Winnebagoes  inhabit  about  the  Lake  of  the  same 
name,  south  of  Green  bay.  Their  village  is  situated  on  an 
island  near  the  end  of  the  lake,  and  can  raise  about  three 
hundred  warriors.  Illinois  tribe  inhabit  a  village  near  Ca- 
hokia  river  on  the  Mississippi,  and  can  furnish  two  hundred 
and  sixty  warriors.  There  are  a  number  of  other  tribes, 
towns  and  villages,  north  of  the  River  Ohio,  within  the 
boimdaries  of  the  United  States ;  especially  in  the  extensive 
country  between  the  Illinois  river  and  the  Upper  lakes.  But 
the  deficiency  of  information  is  too  great  to  attempt  any 
description  of  them. 

South  of  the  Ohio,  the  Cherokee  nation  inhabit  a  tract  o't 
country  lying  in  the  southern  parts  of  Tennessee,  and  north- 
ern  parts  of  Georgia,  being  separated  on  the  east  from  North 
and  South  Carolina,  by  the  Apalachian  or  Cherokee  moun- 
tains,  and  extending  on  the  west,  to  Duck  river,  running  'nto 
the  Tennessee.  By  a  tract  concluded  between  the  United 
States  and  the  Cherokee  nation,  at  Hopewell,  in  November, 
1785,  the  boundary  between  the  citizens  of  the  United  Sta  i, 
and  the  country  allotted  to  this  nation  for  hunting  groL  . 
Is  particularly  designated.  The  Cherokees  have  been  a 
famous  Indian  nation,  but  is  now  on  the  decline.    Frequent 


212 


wars  with  the  northern  tribes,  and  witU  while  people,  have 
greatly  reduced  their  numbers.  They  are  said  to  have  had 
two  thousand  five  hundred  warriors,  but  they  are  now  esti- 
mated at  one  thousand  five  hundred.  They  have  about  forty- 
five  towns  in  which  they  reside  when  they  are  not  engaged 
inliunting  or  war  excursions.  They  are  a  tall,  robust,  and 
well  formed  people,  of  a  lighter  complexion  than  the  neigh- 
bouring Indian  nations.  The  men  are  very  generally  six 
feet  in  height.  The  women  are  also  tall  and  of  an  handsome 
figure,  rather  slender  and  delicate.  This  nation  has  been 
much  celebratr'd  for  their  talents  and  correct  morals.       , 

The  Chickasaws  reside  in  the  Mississippi  Territory,  on 
the  Yazoo  river,  and  westward  of  the  Tennessee  riv  ";  a"  far 
north  as  the  Ohio,  of  and  down  the  Ohio  and  Mississipp.,  to 
theChactaw  line  of  Natchez  district.  The  boundary  of  the 
lands  allotted  to  this  nation  is  particularly  described  in  the 
treaty  of  Hopewell  on  the  10th  of  January,  1786.  Their 
country  lies  north  of  the  Chactaw  nation,  and  is  very  much 
an  extended  plain  with  little  rising  land.  It  is  well  watered 
_and  the  soil  generally  good.  They  reside  in  about  seven 
or  eight  towns  and  had  formerly  five  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  M'ari'iors,  and  seventeen  hundred  and  twenty-five  souls* 

The  Chactaws,  a  powerful,  subtle,  hardy,  Indian  nation, 
reside  between  the  Tombigby  and  Mississippi  rivers.  The 
limits  of  the  country,  within  the  United  States  on  which 
this  nation  is  to  live  and  hunt,  was  particularly  stipulated 
at  the  treaty  of  Hopewell,  on  the  3d  of  January,  1786.  Their 
country  is  hilly,  with  extensive,  fertile  plains  intervening 
between  the  high  lands.  Unlike  most  of  the  Indian  nations 
they  have  paid  considerable  attention  to  husbandry.  Some 
of  them  have  large  farms,  in  a  good  state  of  culture,  and 
many  c."  them  spend  much  of  their  time  in  agricultural  im- 
provements.  Although  they  do  not  possess  one  quarter 
part  of  the  qnarttity  of  land  which  the  Creek  nation  occupies, 
their  number  of  people  is  more  than  two  thirds  as  large  as 
the  Creek  confederacy.  Many  years  ago  they  had  forty-three 
towns  and  villairefi.  containing'  4^041  warriors^  and  12.12.'? 
iouls.    Since  that  time  they  are  supposed  to  have  consider- 


213 


al)ly  increased  in  population.  These  people  are  said  to  be 
slovenly  and  dirty  in  their  dress,  but  ingenious,  sensible  and 
virtuous.  Late  travellers,  however,  have  represented  them 
as  paying  little  regard  to  their  moral  conduct,  and  that  un- 
natural crimes  were  too  frequently  practiced  among  them. 
There  is  an  inveterate  enmity  between  the  Choctaws  and 
Creek  Indians. 

The  Creek  confederacy  forms  the  largest  and  most  pow- 
erful nation  of  Indians  south  of  the  Ohio.  The  nation  with 
whom  the  confederacy  originated,  was  called  Muskogul^e. 
who  emigrated  from  the  west,  beyond  the  Mississippi,  and 
established  themselves  on  the  ruins  of  the  Natchez  These 
people  made  their  first  ieitlement  on  the  Oukmulge  Fields,  in 
the  State  of  Georgia.  They  gradually  subdued  their  sur- 
rounding enemies,  and  then  strengthened  themselves  by 
taking  into  confederacy  the  vanquished  tribes.  The  princi- 
pal nations  and  tribes  composing  this  union,  are  the  Appa- 
lachies,  Alabamas,  Abecas,  Cawillaws,  Coosas>  Conshacks, 
Coosactee«,  Chacsihoomas,  Natchez,  Oconies,  Oakmulgies, 
Okohoys,  Pakanas,  Taensas,  Talepoosas,  Wectunkas,  and 
others  who  have  since  been  united  with  them  This  con- 
federation has  rendered  them  formidaLlo  to  all  the  -ations 
around  them,  as  well  as  to  the  wkite  people,  and  has  ren- 
dered them  victorious  over  the  Chickasaws.  They  are 
divided  into  Upper  Creeks,  and  Middle  and  Lower  Creeks. 
The  Upper  Creeks  include  all  the  waters  of  the  Koose,  Tale- 
poose  and  Alabama  rivers,  and  are  called  Abbaco.  Their 
hunting  ground  extends  to  the  Tombigby  river,  which  is 
the  dividing  Tuie  between  the  Creeks  and  Chocktaws.  The 
Middle  Creeks  include  all  the  waters  of  the  Chattahoose 
and  Flint  rivers,  down  to  their  junction,  and  although  occu- 
pied by  a  great  number  of  different  tribes,  the  whole  are 
calkd  Coweta  people,  from  the  Cowetan  town  and  tribe,  the 
most  warlike,  and  one  of  the  most  ancient  of  the  Creek  na- 
tion. The  Lower  Creeks  take  in  the  Appalachicola  river, 
and  extend  to  the  point  of  East  Florida.    This  division  is 

Ca"'*''    tlie    !§''"»« ' ""/''»       Tlipv  liavA  fiftv.fi\'#»    niMnrinal  tnvvns. 

besides  many  villages.  The  smallest  towns  have  from  twenty 


214 


to  thirty,  and  some  of  the  hirgcst  from  one  hundred  and 
fifty  to  two  hundred  houses.  The  towns  are  all  built  com- 
pact.  The  houses  stand  in  clusters  of  4,  5,  6,  7  and  8  to- 
gether, irregularly  arranged  up  and  down  the  banks  of  the 
rivers  and  small  streams.  Each  cluster  contains  a  clan,  or 
family  of  relations,  who  eat  and  live  in  common.  Each  town 
has  a  public  square,  hot-house  and  yard  near  the  centre, 
appropriated  to  various  public  uses.  General  M'Gillivra, 
estimated  tlie  number  of  warriors  to  be  about  six  thousand 
exclusive  of  the  Seminoles,  who  arc  considered  of  little  ac- 
count in  war.  From  their  roving  manner  of  living  it  is  im- 
possible to  ascertain  the  number  of  Creek  Indians  with 
much  precision.  They  probably  may  have  about  26,000 
souls. 

The  land  which  thay  cla'.m  as  their  country  is  a  common 
■lock  ;  and  any  individual  may  remove  from  one  part  of  it 
to  another,  and  occupy  vacant  ground  where  he  can  find  it. 
They  have  considered  their  boundary  northward,  to  be 
some  where  about  the  forty -second  degree  of  north  latitude 
(as  it  has  been  found  by  surveyers),  extending  westward  to 
the  Tombigby  river,  and  eastward  to  the  atlantic  ocean  ; 
but  they  have  ceded  parts  of  this  tract  on  the  sea  coast,  long 
ago,  by  different  treaties  to  the  State  of  Georgia.  Their 
country  is  hilly,  but  not  mountainous ;  tlie  soil  fertile  ; 
abounding  with  creeks,  from  whence  they  are  probably  called 
the  Creek  Indians.  They  have  been  very  desLi-ous  to  agree 
with  the  United  States  on  a  permanent  boundary  line,  over 
which  the  southern  States  should  not  trespass.  In  August 
1790,  the  United  States  concluded  a  treaty  with  the  Kings, 
chiefs  and  warriors,  of  the  Creek  nation,  at  New-York.  Uy 
this  treaty  the  boundary  line  was  to  begin  where  the  old 
line  strikes  the  River  Savannah  ;  thence  up  the  river  t6  a 
place  called  Keowce,  where  a  northeast  line  to  be  drawn 
from  the  top  of  the  Occunna  mountain  shall  intersect ; 
thence  along  the  said  line  in  a  southwest  direction,  to  Tugelo 
river  ;,  thence  to  the  ton  of  the  Currahee  mountain  ;  thence 
to  the  head  or  source  of  the  m.ain  south  branch  of  th.e  Qr.nnpe 
river,  called  the  Appalachee  ;  tlience  down  the  said  branch 


215 

•nd  River  Oconee  to  its  confluence  with  tl»e  Oakmulg,  e 
which  form  the  River  Altamaha  to  the  old  line,  and  thence 
along  the  old  line  to  the  River  Saint  Mary.  The  United 
Statea  were,  fram  time  to  time,  to  furnish  the  Creek  nation 
gratuitously  with  useful  domestic  animals  and  impiement. 
of  husbandry.  A  subsequent  treaty  was  concluded,  at  Cole- 
ra,n,  in  June  1796.  confirming  the  former  treaty,  providing 
that  the  boundary  line  from  the  Currahee  mount-^in.  should 
be  clearly  ascertained  and  marked,  and  stipulating  to  give 
to  the  said  nation,  goods  to  the  value  of  6,000  dollars,  and 
to  send  two  black  smiths,  with  strikers  and  necessary  tools, 
to  be  employed  for  the  Upper  and  Lower  Creeks. 

Considerable  improvements  have  been  made  by  these 
people  in  agriculture,  but  they  have  been  extremely  deficient 
in  their  implements  of  husbandry.  A  very  large  part  of  the 
nation  being  devoted  to  hunting  in  the  winter,  and  to  war 
or  idleness  in  the  summer,  they  cultivate  only  small  tract* 
of  land  which  are  barely  sufficient  to  afford  them  sustenance. 
Some,  who  possess  numbers  of  negroes,  have  fenced  fields  ? 
but  having  no  ploughs,  they  are  obliged  to  break  up,  and 
cultivate  the  ground  with  hoes.  The  seta  is  scattered  over 
the  ground  promiscuously,  and  not  plantr-J  in  rows.  The 
articles  they  cultivate,  are  tobacco,  rice,  Indian  corn,  pota- 
toes,  beans,  peas,  cabbage  and  melons.  Such  fruits  as 
peaches,  plumbs,  grapes,  and  strawberries,  they  have  in 
great  plenty.  They  raise  great  numbers  of  horses,  cattle 
and  hogs,  and  abound  in  turkics,  ducks  and  other  poultry. 
Thty  manufacture  earthern  pots  and  pans,  baskets,  horse 
ropes  or  halters,  smoaked  leather,  black  marble  pipes 
woocUMi  spoons,  and  oil  from  acorns,  hickory  nuts  and 
chesnuts. 

The  Creoks  are  not  disposed  to  have  much  intercourse 
wilh  white  people,  especially  foreigners,  except  with  the 
English.  Their  prejudice  is  strong  in  favour  of  that  nation, 
and  they  still  believe  "  the  Great  King  over  the  water"  is 
able  to  koep  the  whole  world  in  subjection.  Thsy  have  a 
particular  fondness  for  liritish  guns,  drums,  and  other  arti- 
cles  manufactured  by  the  English  people. 


ai6 


It  is  said  the  Muakogiilge  language,  which  is  soft  and 
musical,  is  spoken  throughout  the  confederacy,  although 
different  tribes  retain  their  native  tongues.  These  people 
are  generally  well  formed,  expert,  hardy,  sagacious  and 
politic.  TJiey  are  extremely  jealous  of  their  rights,  and 
averse  to  parting  with  their  lands.  They  are  faithful  friends, 
but  inveterate  enemies  ;  hospitable  to  strangers ;  and  hon- 
est and  fair  in  their  dealings.  They  have  a  most  contempt- 
able  opinion  of  the  white  man's  faith,  and  yet  place  great 
confidence  in  the  justice  and  integrity  of  the  government  of 
the  United  States.  Thuv  have  no  coercive  laws,  but  sup- 
port an  excellent  policy  in  their  civil  government.  It  is  said 
some  of  their  rr.ost  favourite  songs  and  dances,  they  have 
received  from  their  enemies,  the  Choctaws,  who  are  distin- 
guished for  poetry  and  music.  They  allow  polygamy  in  the 
greatest  latitude.  Any  man  may  take  as  many  wives  as  he 
pleases,  but  the  first  wife  is  to  be  treated  as  queen,  and  the 
re»t  as  only  hand-maids  and  associates.  One  of  the  regula- 
tions said  to  have  been  adopted  by  the  Creek  nation,  merits 
the  highe-",  commendation.  ^  is  the  prohibition  of  the  use 
of  spirituous  liquors.  In  their  treaties  with  the  white  peo- 
pie,  it  has  been  said,  they  ha^e  insisted  that  no  kind  of  spir- 
its should  be  sold  to  their  people ;  and  when  attempts  have 
been  made  to  run  kegs  of  spirits,  the  Indians,  on  a  discov- 
ery, have  destroyed  them  with  their  tomahawks. 

The  Catalaw  nation  is  only  the  remnant  of  a  formidable, 
brave,  generous  people,  now  reduced  to  a  small  tribe. 
They  reside  on  a  rivtr  of  the  same  name,  which  forms  a 
boundary  line  between  North  and  South  Carolina.  In  their 
present  situation,  they  are  entirely  surrounded  by  white  in- 
habitants. A  tract  of  land  of  444,000  acres,  has  been 
assigned  them,  on  which  they  huve  agricultural  improve- 
ments. They  are  said  to  consist  of  about  four  hundred 
and  fifty  souls,  and  have  abo';t  one  hundred  and  fifty 
warriors. 

An  account  has  been  given  of  a  particular  tribe  of  Indians 
residing,  on  elevated  land,  in  a  part  of  the  Eokeefanoke,  or 
Ekanfanoga  swamp,  between  Tlint  and  Oakmulgee  rivers^ 


ai7 


from  which  the  River  Saint  Mary  takes  its  rise.  It  is  called 
a  lake,  or  rather  a  marsh,  three  hundred  miles  in  circumfer* 
ence.  The  account  given  of  these  Indians,  borders  too 
anuch  on  romance  to  deserve  much  credit.  The  lake  or 
marsh  is  called  Ouaquaphetioga.  "  In  wet  seasons  it  appears 
like  an  inland  sea,  and  has  several  largcislands  of  rich  land; 
one  of  which  the  present  generation  of  Creek  Indians  repre- 
sent as  the  most  blissful  spot  on  earth.  They  say  it  is 
inhabited  by  a  peculiar  race  of  Indians,  whose  women  are 
incomparably  beautiful.  They  tell  that  this  terrestrial  par> 
adise  has  been  seen  by  some  enterprising  hunters,  when  in 
pursuit  of  their  game,  who  being  lost  in  inextricable  swamps 
and  bogs,  and  on  the  point  of  perishing,  were  unexpectedly 
relieved  by  a  company  of  beautiful  women,  whom  they  call 
daughters  of  the  sun,  who  kindly  gave  them  such  provisions 
as  they  had  with  them ;  consisting  of  fruit  and  corn  cakes, 
and  then  enjoined  them  to  fly  for  safety  to  their  own  coun- 
try,  because  their  husbands  were  fierce  men,  and  cruel  to 
strangers.  They  further  say,  that  these  hunters  had  a  view" 
of  their  settlements,  situated  on  the  elevated  banks  of  an 
island,  in  a  beautiful  lake ;  but  in  all  their  endeavours  to 
approach  it,  they  were  involved  in  perpetual  labyrinths,  and, 
like  enchanted  land,  still  as  they  imagined  they  had  just 
gained  it,  it  seemed  to  fly  before  them  ;  and  having  quitted 
the  delusive  pursuit,  they  with  much  difiiculty  eifected 
their  retreat. 

"They  tell  another  story  concerning  this  sequestered 
country,  which  seems  not  improbable,  which  is,  that  the 
inhabitants  are  the  posterity  of  a  fugitive  remnant  of  the  an- 
cient Yamases,  who  escaped  massacre,  after  a  bloody  and 
decisive  battle  between  them  and  the  Creeks,  (who,  it  is 
certain,  conquered  and  ;iearly  exterminated  that  once  pow- 
erful people),  and  here  formed  an  asylum,  remote  and  secure 
from  the  fury  of  their  proud  conquerors.  The  River  Saint 
Mary  and  Sitilla,  which  fall  into  the  Atlantic,  and  the  beauti- 
ful Little  Juan,  which  empties  into  the  bay  of  Appalachi,  at 
Saint  Mark's,  are  said  by  Bartrsm,  to  flow  from  this  lake."* 

*  Ste  Ouaquaphen9ga-Wt  Amerioan  GaxettecK 
19 


219 

Mr.  Purcell,  in  his  account  of  the  population  of  the  Indian 
nations  south  of  the  Ohio,  has  stated  the  number  of  war- 
riors to  be  13,516,  which  is  1,260  more,  than  is  here  given. 
The  number  of  souls  are  considerable  less,  being  42,033, 
and  2,260  less  than  the  preceding  estimation.  Although 
he  appears  to  have  taken  his  numbers  from  actual  enumera- 
tion,  he  makes  the  proportion  of  warriors,  to  the  number  of 
souls,  only  a  small  fraction  more  than  three  souls  to  one 
warrior,  which  is  considerably  less  than  the  common  rule  of 
calculation.  It  is  not  improbable,  however,  that  his  account 
is  correct.  It  has  been  a  general  opinion  that  these  nations 
have  been  increasing  in  number,  for  a  considerable  time 
past.  The  greatest  enemy  to  their  population  has  doubtlesi 
been  the  intemperate  use  of  spirituous  liquors. 


% 


219 


Table  of  the  probable  number  of  warriors  and  souls  of  the 
Indians,  residing  west  of  Uie  Allegany  mountains  and  vicin- 
ity of  the  lakes,  within  the  limits  of  the  United  States. 


JVatnea. 

JVo.  JVarnors. 

Estimated  JSTo. 

North  of  the  Ohio. 

of  Souls, 

Six  Nations, 

1400 

4508 

Wy  an  dots, 

250 

800 

Wyandot  tribes. 

300 

1000 

Delawares, 

600 

2000 

Shawanoes, 

300 

900 

Ottawas, 

900 

3000 

Cliippewas, 

1550 

4000 

Futawatimes, 

500 

2000 

Miamis, 

300 

1000 

Piankoshaws,  i 

Kickapoos,       f 
Musquitons,    C 

1000 

3500 

Ouiatanos,        J 

Kickapoos,     "^ 

Outtagamies,  C 

1000 

3500 

MusquakeySjj 

Naudowesies, 

500 

2000 

Killistinoes, 

250 

800 

Mingoes, 

50 

200 

Lezars, 

300 

1000 

Outimaes. 

200 

roo 

Winnebagoes, 

300 

1000 

Illinois, 

260 

1000 

South  of  the  Ohio. 

Cherokees, 

1500 

4000 

Chicksaws, 

575 

1725 

Chocktaws. 

4041 

12128 

Creeks, 

6000 

26000 

Catabaws, 

150 

450 

• 

22,226 

77,101 

THE  END. 


